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Chainsaw operating tips?

whoaru99

whoaru99

Epic Member
Looking for advice on (relatively) safe use of a chainsaw to cut up some smaller downed trees. Nothing too big, it's small "consumer grade" unit with 18"(?) bar. A Poulan "Wild Thing" I believe (actually belongs to my GF). It's not a highly rated unit, and it only gets infrequent use to hack up some camping wood. So, suggestions to get a "real" chainsaw won't be of much beneft until this one doesn't work anymore.

I'm familar with the basic safety things, eye and ear protection, gloves, work boots, long pants, no loose clothes, etc. And, also the chain oiling, fuel mix, etc.

However, looking for the operational do and don't stuff. I've never really run a chainsaw besides getting this one started and hacking up a couple small branches.
 
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A couple common sense ones: Stay totally focused on what you are doing. Don't make weird "reaches" (like above your head), and don't bog it down too much.
 
Most of it is common sense, but there are some very important things you need to know that are best learned by watching an experienced woodsman use his saw. Cutting downed trees has a whole list of dangers that differ from cutting a standing tree down. The only book I've ever read that was worth reading was Barnacle Parp's Chain Saw Guide. It's in plain English, and will save you from making a lot of the mistakes that put beginners in the hospital.

A few beginner's tips:

First thing you need to learn, is how to sharpen that saw. Dull cutters will kill you a lot faster than sharp ones. If you run the chain into the ground, cut the saw off and sharpen it. Every time. The saw will feed itself through the wood if it's sharp, if you have to use much force at all, the saw is too dull... Sharpen it.

Once the saw is sharp, set up your area to cut. Clear out all the small brush and branches you can. Getting tripped up with a running saw in your hands is a VERY bad thing. If you can, drag the large pieces into an open area, that is as flat and clear of obstructions as possible. If you can set up a set of saw dogs to lay the wood across for cutting, mores the better. Cutting a tree lying on the ground is a great way to bind the saw, and/or run the chain into the ground.

Take care not to set up a situation likely to bind the saw. If the log is laying across a depression in the ground so that either end is supported but the middle is not, cutting in the middle is a perfect formula for binding the saw; and binding = kickback. Where possible: make gravity your ally, not your enemy.

Most of all, never forget that chain saws have killed or injured thousands of people. It's a great tool, but it is a dangerous one. If you're not 100% sure of how to make a cut, stop and reevaluate the logs position and your approach to it. Think your way through it, and never make a cut with your body twisted up, or your feet positioned poorly.
 
Dont cut with the end of the saw, if it climbs out of the wood it will shoot it up twoards your face.

The fact that your even asking leads me to believe you will be just fine.
 
I always start out with a couple beers to relaxe me... Don't want to be thinking about other **** when using the saw...

Then I make sure I've got some shorts on and no T so I stay nice and cool...

Be sure you have a good solid footing, so leave the boots behind so you can wrap your toes around the branches you are cutting.

Nothing like a good drop start so you look like one of the pros...

Be sure you keep the kids close by so they can watch and learn too...

Make sure the chain isn't too sharp, that way if it does jump out of the cut, it won't cut you so bad...

You have to stay good an hydrated, so keep that beer cooler handy...

If you follow these common sense rules, and others you make up as you go along, you should be sure to have a job well done..
 
Similost is right.

Chainsaws can hurt you. Get someone there who knows what they're doing to give you a hand and teach you. You usually only get one "oops" with a chainsaw.
 
fotno said:
Most of it is common sense, but there are some very important things you need to know that are best learned by watching an experienced woodsman use his saw. Cutting downed trees has a whole list of dangers that differ from cutting a standing tree down. The only book I've ever read that was worth reading was Barnacle Parp's Chain Saw Guide. It's in plain English, and will save you from making a lot of the mistakes that put beginners in the hospital.

A few beginner's tips:

First thing you need to learn, is how to sharpen that saw. Dull cutters will kill you a lot faster than sharp ones. If you run the chain into the ground, cut the saw off and sharpen it. Every time. The saw will feed itself through the wood if it's sharp, if you have to use much force at all, the saw is too dull... Sharpen it.

Once the saw is sharp, set up your area to cut. Clear out all the small brush and branches you can. Getting tripped up with a running saw in your hands is a VERY bad thing. If you can, drag the large pieces into an open area, that is as flat and clear of obstructions as possible. If you can set up a set of saw dogs to lay the wood across for cutting, mores the better. Cutting a tree lying on the ground is a great way to bind the saw, and/or run the chain into the ground.

Take care not to set up a situation likely to bind the saw. If the log is laying across a depression in the ground so that either end is supported but the middle is not, cutting in the middle is a perfect formula for binding the saw; and binding = kickback. Where possible: make gravity your ally, not your enemy.

Most of all, never forget that chain saws have killed or injured thousands of people. It's a great tool, but it is a dangerous one. If you're not 100% sure of how to make a cut, stop and reevaluate the logs position and your approach to it. Think your way through it, and never make a cut with your body twisted up, or your feet positioned poorly.
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Some very good advice here! You only get one oops and if it does happen lets hope it`s just a little one. Get someone who is familiar with a chainsaw and can show you the Correct procedure! Safety,safety,safety!
 
yeah.. seriously... if you take your time and THINK.. you SHOUld be OK...

I used to repair saws, and LOTS of them... even knowing what I know, and being stupid, I dropstarted a saw with a 42" bar, and the second it fired it hit my leg.. right through the jeans, and left a nice scar across the top of my leg.

I got lucky, it just tapped me, and was only a skin wound, but it could have been MUCH worse... I knew better, especially with a bar and saw the size I was handling...

Just read something the other night that said the average chainsaw wound takes 210 stitches to close... DAMN! I'd hate to see the above average wound..
 
As Fotno has pointed out,A sharp saw is essential.
You shouldnt have to put too much pressure on the bar
and the weight of the saw should do most of the cutting.
If the chain is sharp,It will put out wood chips that look like
strips of grated cheese,"Not" small dust like particles.

When limbing & cutting brush make sure the chain is fairly
tight to the bar or you can throw the chain easily.

Downed trees can have alot of compression and/or tension
on them and can move around on you when you cut
and bind up on the bar.

I like to have a couple of wedges on hand.

Some people feel more comfortable wearing chaps
and you'll like the way you look ~
 
Here's a four lesson online seminar on chainsaw use and safety:

http://forestry.about.com/c/ec/9.htm

Your saw probably has two pair of "prongs" on either side of the base of the bar. Use them.

Always know where the end of the bar is. Never touch the tip to the wood. Ever. Plunge cuts are not for beginners.

The worst problem you will probably face is getting the bar jammed in a cut. Before you begin a cut, see how the limb will sag or lean as you begin to cut through it. If it will lean toward the cut and pinch the bar, you can start the cut from that side if you need to, but you must switch to the other side before going too deep into the diameter of the wood. If you jam the bar in the cut, the only way to get it out is to take a splitting wedge and pound it into the cut to spread it open enough to get the bar out.

There is no question that a chainsaw is the most dangerous tool you will ever own. Be aware of that, be careful, and you'll be fine.
 
A sharp chain is the key. If it is sharp there is less work for you to do. Oiling is the key to a chainsaw's operation. The bar, if auto oiled needs to be checked for proper operation and if manual should be used constantly and consistently.
 
Great advice. Another common sense rule that is easy to forget and is obvious -- monitor how tired you are getting when using it. Take frequent breaks. It's easy to get hacking away and not notice your arms are turning to jelly, or your attention span isn't as sharp as it should be. The trees will be there tomorrow -- no need to get in a hurry.

"I dropstarted a saw with a 42" bar, and the second it fired it hit my leg.. right through the jeans, and left a nice scar across the top of my leg."

I would have to grow a third testicle to even pick up a saw with a 42-in. bar.
 
Wornears said:
"I dropstarted a saw with a 42" bar, and the second it fired it hit my leg.. right through the jeans, and left a nice scar across the top of my leg."

I would have to grow a third testicle to even pick up a saw with a 42-in. bar.
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Me and you both. My next door neighbor used to log for a living, and has run some huge saws (40" + with skip tooth chain), but anything bigger than a 24" bar and I won't touch it. Those big saws sound like a motocross bike running!

similost said:
Just read something the other night that said the average chainsaw wound takes 210 stitches to close... DAMN! I'd hate to see the above average wound..
Click to expand...

I know a guy that had a Jonsered saw break it's chain cutting down a huge tree about 20 years ago. The chain wrapped around his arm from the wrist up to his shoulder, then jerked down into the meat of his arm. It took something like 350 stiches to close him up, and just looking at the scar makes me weak in the knees.
 
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Holy shiite...210 stitches.

I have two Stihls, a little one ('hers') and a bigger one (036 Pro) that has a stock 18" bar and a 25" bar I got to cut a 48" tree once. I respect them, especially the big 'un.

Not much to add except:

If I'm cutting anything down I always preplan an escape route behind me and become aware of obstacles.

Don't walk around the wood patch with your finger on the throttle of a running saw. If you trip you may clench the throttle just as the saw makes contact with you. Lay off the trigger when repositioning or walking.

I get my chains sharpened at a shop, $5 a pop, VERY sharp, and can cut a heckuva lot of firewood or logs before it gets dull if you don't hit anything. Worth it for me.

I recommend Stihl saws, very well built.

Break a leg! I mean cut one off! Not!
 
Avoid making contact with the ground. This will dull the chain pretty fast. If you see smoke when cutting, stop and sharpen.
 
Not a SawPro myself,.. but I might have missed where anyone talked about how to notch and avoid binding due to the branch or tree not falling/spreading as intended or splitting funny..

Tieing off branches or trees that might swing the wrong direction when freed or cut.

I've done small stuff myself, usually just "chopping wood" that's already been downed, and its not AS big a deal.. but still if the wood sandwiches the saw that can give some funky kickbacks..

I would go with the "Hire a Pro" technique and watch them.. Or have a buddy that knows saws come and do it with you.
 
Yeah, I can't remember if the OP said he actually had experience, but it's always good to learn from someone who knows. I had a couple guys show me the ropes, and once you pick up the basics, you're OK.
 
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