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Chainsaw operating tips?

No. I don't have any significant experience with a chainsaw.

I've run all sorts of other power tools and equipment, but never had much use for messing with a chainsaw until I found this one in my GF's garage. We have a renewed interest in camping, and I can get some "free" wood if I cut it up and do some splitting. Splitting the old fashioned way, that is.

I have downed a couple small (~12" diameter) trees with an axe, and put them down between some power lines and a garage, but that's not a chainsaw.
 
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No.. Chainsaws work Tooo well, and then when they react to something odd, its almost shocking.. They do funny things.. and there is torque involved.. so they can jump around.. kick back,.. pull,.. all sorts of strange things if you dont handle them right and arent prepared for them..

get someone to help you out and show you the ropes.. (even go to chainsaw store and see what they suggest for getting started.) I'd bet (dont know) that they have a pretty good instructional video or some suggestions.
 
Goodwill_HiFi said:
What's wrong with a drop start?
Click to expand...

Lots if you have a hold of a good size saw....

First off is if it happens to swing into your leg as it starts, which I've had happen, and I've known others to have happen... They can also kick back with a misfire, and it will cause the bar to swing towards your upper body.. seen that happen to....
 
There's not a single way to get killed by a chainsaw that can't be avoided, which makes getting killed by one an awfully silly way to die.
 
before I grabbed that little Stihl 024 at the pawn shop last year, I'd never operated a chain saw in my life. Before I actually ran the one I bought, I read up on quite a bit of material available from the Stihl website. All the safety instructions seemed to be at the "duh!" level; all the ones you folks have posted about proper dress, solid footing, don't overreach etc... but the one thing I read which focussed my attention more than anything else was
At full revs, the average chain saw can be pulling chain at 50 feet per second.

Fifty feet per second. Think about that. How many teeth are in a foot of chain? And 50 times that many in one second? Hey, if you need to wear gloves to handle a stopped chain, I KNOW I'll be keeping that thing as far away from me as I can while it's running.

I've had a few binds. No kick backs. No particularly close calls.
 
Lots of good advice and a good link or two. I'll have some time before the weekend to study up on more of the info, then ease into it.

I think it'll go OK if one engages the brain before putting saw to wood.
 
Um...

Rule 1: The end with the chain should be pointed away from you or other people in the area.
Rule 2: There should be no other poeple, pets, etc. in the area.
Rule 3: Let the chainsaw do the work. Forcing it will only get somone hurt.
Rule 4: It'll all end in tears. I just know it.

:D:smoke:
 
similost said:
Lots if you have a hold of a good size saw....

First off is if it happens to swing into your leg as it starts, which I've had happen, and I've known others to have happen... They can also kick back with a misfire, and it will cause the bar to swing towards your upper body.. seen that happen to....
Click to expand...

Hmm, a large-ish saw or one with lots of compression is one of the reasons why I'd do a drop start. I really can't see it swinging into my leg since I'm holding onto the bar..... no not THAT bar :D The direction of force is down, not towards my legs. I'll take a look at it closer next time.

I can't speak for a misfire causing the bar to swing up...... but it's a misfire, so how dangerous can that be, if the saw didn't start?

While watching a show awhile back..... 10 toughest jobs or something like that. The contestants were with a logging crew, and this one guy was supposed to start big saw and use it for some task. He was too tired to start the saw. He was trying to start it while it was sitting on a log. I thought it was curious that he wasn't drop starting it. Either he had been told not to, or didn't know how.
 
From OSHA...

Believe me... I've cut myself dropstarting a large saw, and I've worked with people that have had serious injuries from dropstarting a saw.... Hence the reason even OSHA has a say about it...

Paragraph (e)(2)(vi) -- Starting Chain Saws

The final rule requires that chain saws be started on the ground or where otherwise firmly supported. OSHA was requested to clarify expressly in the regulatory text whether "drop starting" a chain saw is prohibited under the final rule, and whether operators are allowed to start the chain saw while standing in an upright stance.

In the preamble to the final rule, OSHA explained that the purpose of this requirement was to assure that employees did not attempt to drop start chain saws. As noted in that discussion, an employee could lose his grip when drop starting a chain saw and the saw could fly upward and cut the employee. Nonetheless, OSHA is amending the final rule to emphasize the Agency's intention that drop starting of chain saws is prohibited.

With regard to employee position during chain-saw start up, nothing in the final rule prohibits an employee from standing in upright when starting a chain saw, provided that the employee has firmly supported or secured the chain saw. For example, a chain saw operator would be in compliance with the final rule if he rested the chain saw firmly on a log or other stationary item and started the chain saw while standing upright. OSHA notes that such a starting position is a safe technique because it provides protection both from chain saw kickback and from overexertion of the back.
 
OH....


I'll still drop start saws, but not much bigger than a 24" bar.. larger than that, I either put them on the ground, or hold the trigger handle between my knees.

TRUST ME... a person new to saw DOES NOT need to be flailing a saw around trying to start it...

I've worked on more saws than most people have ever seen, and I used to do tree work on the side... I'v only gotten the one cut on my leg, and that was from dropstarting a very large saw... Had a friend that took over 100 stitches across his shoulder and chest when one misfired wile pulling the rope, and it pulled the saw back into him and laid him open...

You don't want to heed a warning, that's your choice, but I'm giving information based on my experiances, and not just common sense rules..

OH.. and maybe not misfire is the right word, but the rope is yanked back into the saw suddenly but the saw does start... It's doesn't happen often, but it only takes one time... I know a person that can tell you all about it..
 
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similost said:
OH....


I'll still drop start saws, but not much bigger than a 24" bar.. larger than that, I either put them on the ground, or hold the trigger handle between my knees.

TRUST ME... a person new to saw DOES NOT need to be flailing a saw around trying to start it...

I've worked on more saws than most people have ever seen, and I used to do tree work on the side... I'v only gotten the one cut on my leg, and that was from dropstarting a very large saw... Had a friend that took over 100 stitches across his shoulder and chest when one misfired wile pulling the rope, and it pulled the saw back into him and laid him open...

You don't want to heed a warning, that's your choice, but I'm giving information based on my experiances, and not just common sense rules..

OH.. and maybe not misfire is the right word, but the rope is yanked back into the saw suddenly but the saw does start... It's doesn't happen often, but it only takes one time... I know a person that can tell you all about it..
Click to expand...

Rope pull starting engines all have one thing in common. The compression of the engine is either low enough that it can be overcome by the strength of the operator, or there is an automatic or manual decompression system built into the tool. If the system works properly the resistance to the operator's pull is minimal and the engine starts without much drama... If not, the action of the rope being pulled has a tendency to conspire with the firing of the engine.

In a lawn mower or a weed eater it's not a big deal, but in a chain saw it can be a huge thing. If the saw starts running at the moment the rope stops dead in its tracks, then the operator can have a running saw (using the stopped rope as a pivot point), moving towards their body with a fair amount of force. If the revs are low all that happens is a sharp chain (albeit not moving) makes contact with the operators body which is bad enough. If the revs are high enough, then the chain will be moving and that's an entirely different affair.

Amongst the professional loggers that I know, almost every single one of them can point to a scar that drop starting a saw caused. Sometimes those scars are small, and sometimes they're not... These guys had drop-started saws for years, but it only takes once. That's plenty enough reason for me to NOT drop-start a saw. I have enough scars.
 
I don't drop start either one of mine. Life's short enough already. I do sometimes restart a warm saw with one pull by putting the handle between my thighs, but that's way safer than drop-starting.

[Edit: the aformentioned 50 fps speed is equivalent to 34 mph.]
 
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There will be NO drop starting of chainsaws in my operation. This is by decree of the Boss...that's me. ;)
 
Great thread with lots of great advice and info.:thmbsp:

One thing i haven't seen mentioned yet is "fatigue". It's likely that as a noob to chainsaw operation you'll find yourself using muscle groups and exerting yourself in ways you're not used to. Add to that the noise, vibration, and mental concentration/awareness level, and you may find that you tire quickly.

Even the most experienced professional is a danger to himself when he elects to operate in a fatigued state.

I heat with wood, cutting and processing all of it myself from the standing tree to removing the ashes from the stove. I cut 25 to 30 face cord a year using two "pro" grade saws, 54cc and 61cc Dolmars. These saws are not toys, their motors are high performance requiring 92 octane minimum fuel. I find that my safe operating limit is about a tankful of fuel thru either saw. Sure, i could continue beyond that, but i'm going to be tired with my strength and concentration subdued, and slowed reaction time, not a smart thing to do.

Even with an 18 inch bar on the 54cc saw, the only time i ever "drop start" it is after it's been running and warm. With the compression ratios and timing curves of most pro level saws you're inviting trouble drop starting them cold.

Make all of your errors on the side of caution and you should be good to go.
 
Wise words Bowtie regardless of the level of saw one is using. I find that a tank or two is enough for me on my Stihls. I take a lot of breaks to throw wood in the truck and reposition things anyway.

54 cc on an 18" bar? That must be a beast.
 
Apologies Wornears, not sure how i missed that. At any rate, i feel it's a very important factor, and probably a major contributing factor for half or more of all chainsaw accidents that occur. I don't think we can mention it enough.
 
toxcrusadr said:
If I'm cutting anything down I always preplan an escape route behind me and become aware of obstacles.
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Me too, great comment.

Even chopping branches, a big enough branch (and probably smaller than you think!) can hurt you by impact.

Wear safety glasses and gloves.

A couple other comments: TWO HANDS ON THE SAW. I really think cleanup is more dangerous than cutting the trees down. I've seen a coupla guys holding a branch while cutting it. May work for pros, I don't know, but imo just don't do it.

Be mindful of your feet. The saw goes through the branch, and in a graceful arc right into your toes. Yikes.

Even paying attention the saw could and probably will eventually kick back. I stand a little offset so if it did it badly it would miss my face/forehead, always a plus :)

And, if you ever do decide to cut a tree down, tie it off if it could possibly hit anything. I speak from humiliating but hilarious experience here :eek:

Pete
 
Don't have to worry about drop starting my chain saw, it's electric. I've used gas ones before, mostly Stihls. But this electric one really surprised me on how well it does at cutting. I used it last year to cut up a downed walnut tree in my back yard that was an average of two feet in diameter. It did the job admirably well. Of course being electric it wouldn't be of much use in the middle of the forrest. But it's fine for using around the homestead.
 
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