Changing headshell too often?

[49/16]

Well i finally have a turntable with a removable headshell tonearm, which has prompted me to put every cart I own on a seperate headshell. So a day doesnt go by where I dont change my headshell/cart at least once a day just to hear different combos. The issue is I cant help but think this is killing the bearings in my tonearm every time I tighten up a new shell onto my arm, which is probably why theres so many 1200s that lived in clubs where the arms are shot. People with multiple headshell/carts...how do you handle it? Have you ever damaged a tonearm driving yourself nuts trying out new carts?

 

[tnsilver]

People with multiple headshell/carts...how do you handle it?

With multiple turntables.

 

[911s55]

Just don't get ham fisted and over tighten the collar.

You'll settle down when the honeymoon is over and find a couple that fit your liking, most of the time.

 

[49/16]

With multiple turntables.

Ugh i knew this was going to be the answer i already have three! Only one is SME standard. Also two set up is already too much in my NYC closet

 

[49/16]

Just don't get ham fisted and over tighten the collar.

You'll settle down when the honeymoon is over and find a couple that fit your liking, most of the time.

So i shouldnt be using channel locks?

 

[bimasta]

Yeah, that's one big drawback — over-torquing the collar to increase rigidity. Those bearings are the most delicate part of the TT, and damage easily. I just hold the armtube to reduce twisting a little bit, and finger-tighten the collar. The less-than-tight fit plays havoc with stylus azimuth, so I always use a bubble-level on the h'shell.

I used only rigid fixed-headshell arms for 20 years, but since changing to removable four years ago, I don't hear any real degradation in SQ, even with low-compliance MCs. The convenience is great and cartridge swapping is a gas.

I also use contact-enhancer on the h'shell leads, and contact-points where it joins the arm.

But keep using the channel locks — on your plumbing...

 

[49/16]

Yeah, that's one big drawback — over-torquing the collar to increase rigidity. Those bearings are the most delicate part of the TT, and damage easily. I just hold the armtube to reduce twisting a little bit, and finger-tighten the collar. The less-than-tight fit plays havoc with stylus azimuth, so I always use a bubble-level on the h'shell.

I used only rigid fixed-headshell arms for 20 years, but since changing to removable four years ago, I don't hear any real degradation in SQ, even with low-compliance MCs. The convenience is great and cartridge swapping is a gas.

I also use contact-enhancer on the h'shell leads, and contact-points where it joins the arm.

But keep using the channel locks — on your plumbing...

I'm never going back, the ease at which i can change a cartridge and dial in perfect geometry far outweighs whatever sq effect there is, which to me is imperceivable. (In fact this mitsu arm sounds better than anything else ive owned, including some high buck carbon jobs, but that just might be because it's almost 13" long)

How about pliers though?

 

[Djcoolray]

That's why people with SL-1200's mod the platter bearings and arm bearings to handle the intended use, same reason I don't drive a stock '57 Chevy Belair Hardtop......a 283 3-speed compared to a 383 stroker 4-speed. Using stock equipment will always have its draw backs.

 

[Montycat]

I'm never going back, the ease at which i can change a cartridge and dial in perfect geometry far outweighs whatever sq effect there is, which to me is imperceivable. (In fact this mitsu arm sounds better than anything else ive owned, including some high buck carbon jobs, but that just might be because it's almost 13" long)

How about pliers though?

Was that last part serious? No, do not use pliers!

I think I did once to remove a headshell that was impossiblly tight. I also wrapped the collet with cloth or rubber or something to protect it. It absolutely does not need to be that tight. Fingers only.

 

[bimasta]

How about pliers though?

No, do not use pliers!

He's from NYC. A certain sense of humor comes with the territory.

49/16: You may use tweezers.

 

[mprince]

That's why people with SL-1200's mod the platter bearings and arm bearings to handle the intended use, same reason I don't drive a stock '57 Chevy Belair Hardtop......a 283 3-speed compared to a 383 stroker 4-speed. Using stock equipment will always have its draw backs.

Any real world experience or posts to back this up? Lots of people here using 1200's and I've never seen a post on rebuilding the arm bearings. Rewiring or complete arm replacement, sure, but never heard of anyone doing a bearing upgrade on the stock arm.

 

[49/16]

He's from NYC. A certain sense of humor comes with the territory.

49/16: You may use tweezers.

Zircon Encrusted? Every other wrangler would say I was mighty grand...

 

[49/16]

Any real world experience or posts to back this up? Lots of people here using 1200's and I've never seen a post on rebuilding the arm bearings. Rewiring or complete arm replacement, sure, but never heard of anyone doing a bearing upgrade on the stock arm.

It's not a bad arm, but a fresh Jelco and corresponding mounting plate is a better idea...

 

[steven94]

Ok Let's put an end to the pliers theory.Don't do it ! You must use a torque wrench to get the proper adjustment

 

[mprince]

It's not a bad arm, but a fresh Jelco and corresponding mounting plate is a better idea...

The statement I responded to was that modifying the arm bearings in a stock Technics arm was common.

I agree that there are threads everywhere about replacing the stock arm. Curious as to what benefits a Jelco arm would have over the Technics arm though.

 

[Montycat]

Installing a headshell should put very little stress on the bearings. The collet spins around the end of the tube which is kept from turning by the nib on the headshell; held firmly this keeps the tube from rotating.

 

[bimasta]

Lots of people here using 1200's and I've never seen a post on rebuilding the arm bearings. Rewiring or complete arm replacement, sure, but never heard of anyone doing a bearing upgrade on the stock arm.

I've seen a couple 1200 arms that were trashed, frozen in space and time. Probably due to overzealous DJ use, not overzealous h'shell tightening. But the most common problem is the bearings are loose as hell, lots of play, very detrimental if the TT is used in an audiophile context (and it can be, it's a damn fine table). In that case, readjusting the bearings to eliminate play is usually the cure. I too have never heard of an "upgrade" but I'm sure it's possible.

In some cases, overstressing the bearings causes "brinelling", which means flat-spots on the balls or indentations in the races, and that can be caused by overtightening the h'shell. In that case, they should be replaced. Standard new bearings are fine, and it's not a difficult job. "Upgraded" bearings could be an improvement, but you'd have to locate them.

 

[49/16]

I've seen a couple 1200 arms that were trashed, frozen in space and time. Probably due to overzealous DJ use, not overzealous h'shell tightening. But the most common problem is the bearings are loose as hell, lots of play, very detrimental if the TT is used in an audiophile context (and it can be, it's a damn fine table). In that case, readjusting the bearings to eliminate play is usually the cure. I too have never heard of an "upgrade" but I'm sure it's possible.

In some cases, overstressing the bearings causes "brinelling", which means flat-spots on the balls or indentations in the races, and that can be caused by overtightening the h'shell. In that case, they should be replaced. Standard new bearings are fine, and it's not a difficult job. "Upgraded" bearings could be an improvement, but you'd have to locate them.

I think it would be as simple as getting out a micrometer and matching the diameter to a corresponding ceramic bearing on Boca Bearing's website. The bearings my Mitsu uses are the same as used for a lot of high end RC helicopters.

 

[bimasta]

Installing a headshell should put very little stress on the bearings. The collet spins around the end of the tube which is kept from turning by the nib on the headshell; held firmly this keeps the tube from rotating.

I'm not sure what you mean by "held firmly". Do you mean holding the h'shell firmly, or the amtube firmly?

 

[49/16]

The statement I responded to was that modifying the arm bearings in a stock Technics arm was common.

I agree that there are threads everywhere about replacing the stock arm. Curious as to what benefits a Jelco arm would have over the Technics arm though.

I did love my st250 i had on my Denon a ways back. I think the benifits would be as simple as a warranty and fresh, unbrinelled bearings set from the factory as opposed to a 30 year old arm that has a dubious past. As you move up the line the 750 has oil dampening which can be very benificial but no point in getting into that topic here.