Bicyclist
Super Member
I'm glad that it works for you. I am just happy knowing I've stopped the degredation. It's really cool when someone goes all in!
trainbuftony
Electron Herder
So you used the active ingredient in our favorite cleaner: DeOxit.
I use Kroil Oil on rusty auto nuts, bolts, and metal surfaces. It works well to free up caked-on, hardened stuff.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/KROIL-P...NSF-H2-50-State-VOC-Compliant-KL081/325587815
To clean the chassis use WD-40 sprayed on some 0000 steel wool. Spray some wd40 in a plastic up, use that to re-apply do not spray the amp with wd-40.
Scrub the chassis with the steel wool and wipe off with paper towels or shop towels. It’s best to do this if the chassis is bare.
That will take the rust down and allow the shine to be restored. Buffing with any buffing compound or waxing can be used after to buff to desired shine.
Good luck with it! Welcome to the site too.
Bill Ferris
Lunatic Member
In my opinion and experience, all those little spots are German cock roach`s excrement, Boochie ! Eww !!
I've bought several vintage amps with those tiny brown-black dots. From the amp's history, they may be cigarette smoke tar droplets. They are very hard to remove. Rubbing alcohol and Simple Green works a little, but I end up leaving the dots alone.
My Silverface 1968 Fender Bassman. Spent its life working in a bar.
After playing for hrs. the amp`s chassis, transformers remain warm for a long time, and the little buggers crawl into the amp through any open input/output 1/4" jacks, especially during cold weather and the bar/club shuts down over night and becomes cool/cold inside looking to stay warm.
The light brown stains are second hand smoke cigarette tars that were air born and drawn to the amp from the rising heat convection during use, especially being the Fender amp`s tubes are hanging upside down as mounted on the chassis underneath, and I`ve always been able to easily remove the tars using Glass Plus, Windex, or Simple Green.
All Bars, clubs, and even some folks homes are filled with roaches feeding on all the missed spilt beer and liquor sugars, and any food particulates, if served !
I became accidently very aware of the Corral Gables Miami located club`s roach inhouse density situation in 1980, when I was setting up the band`s PA and had a leftover ~6" strip of gaffer`s tape and so not to waste it in case I might need a piece later I folded the end and stuck it to the wall with the sticky side out beside my mixing board, and it became completely covered in stuck German cock roaches that crawled across it over night for about a week !
No, they're tar stains. As I cleaned them, you could smell the tobacco. The cabinet needed Simple Green treatment, hose spray, and a couple of days in the sun to eliminate most of the tobacco smell.
When I bought it, I knew that it was a "house amp" in a bar. I got it for half the price of most drip edge Bassman on the market. The tolex and grille cleaned up nicely. You should have seen how brown the initial rinse water was!
After resto with the DIY 2X12 cab I made for it.
I don't have a "before" photo, but it looked like this.
When I redid the amp, a guy online made face plates for most of the blackface and silverface era Fender amps. They were done precisely and included all the changes within the same model, like where the vertical lines were placed or not placed.
Bicyclist
Super Member
I'm a working musician, if your stuff ain't stinky and kind of abused have you really been gigging?No, they're tar stains. As I cleaned them, you could smell the tobacco. The cabinet needed Simple Green treatment, hose spray, and a couple of days in the sun to eliminate most of the tobacco smell.
When I bought it, I knew that it was a "house amp" in a bar. I got it for half the price of most drip edge Bassman on the market. The tolex and grille cleaned up nicely. You should have seen how brown the initial rinse water was!
View attachment 3214683
After resto with the DIY 2X12 cab I made for it.
View attachment 3214686
I don't have a "before" photo, but it looked like this.
When I redid the amp, a guy online made face plates for most of the blackface and silverface era Fender amps. They were done precisely and included all the changes within the same model, like where the vertical lines were placed or not placed.
I've never owned a new amp and only two new guitars. It's cheaper that way.
The first Fender Princeton Reverb I owned must have belonged to a dog owner. My Chocolate Lab took one sniff and peed on it.
It was his comment about my guitar playing.
Very nice chops!
Bicyclist
Super Member
Love to have a Princeton reverb!!!I've never owned a new amp and only two new guitars. It's cheaper that way.
The first Fender Princeton Reverb I owned must have belonged to a dog owner. My Chocolate Lab took one sniff and peed on it.
It was his comment about my guitar playing.
Bicyclist
Super Member
Ty, I do a bunch of different styles but I enjoy blues.Very nice chops!
I feel that you can get your emotions onto the fretboard easier with Blues.
My favorite axemen tend to be Blues-based.
Bicyclist
Super Member
FM in Chicago is why I started guitar. Still chasing greeny!I feel that you can get your emotions onto the fretboard easier with Blues.
My favorite axemen tend to be Blues-based.
I like Greeny.
A worthy chase!
Disfunction
New Member
My corrosion problem is a bit different. I have a (different) Fisher X200 that has the bias/balance switch locked up due to corrosion. Anyone ever deal with that before?
Yes. I used Deoxit Fader Lube F100. Let it soak overnight. The next day, slowly try to move the shaft in each direction. Just a little at a time. Add a few drops of Lube if the control is still stuck. It works in most cases, except where the potentiometer is damaged and physically frozen, not corrosion. If that is the case, then you need a new pot.
https://caig.com/product/deoxit-fader-f100l-l25c/
That shiite better perform, given the price. I looked for a spray can of it recently. @ $35 apiece, I nixed that in favor of good ol' PB Blaster.