rafael1971
Member
hello I need to clean and lubricate potentiometers my receiver I see in DeoxIT ebay but there are many which would be recommended for the potentiometers?
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cleaning and lubrication of potentiometers
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savatage1973
Addicted Member
You keep shopping at *******and changing the oil in your vehicle with the $3/qt recycled oil and the $2 filter. I'll keep buying brand name full synthetic and Fram or K&N filters--come talk to me in 200K miles.
Back to the original post--DeOxit is good stuff. There may be better/equivalent stuff out there, but it has a proven track record (not just around here).
D5 (red) for heavy cleaning, but has no lubricant, G5 (gold) for lighter cleaning and lubrication, FaderLube for lubrication. If something is truly crusty, I sometimes start with some CRC contact cleaner, but that is a rare occasion.
I generally go through a thorough cleaning with the D5 and then a final treatment of FaderLube to provide lubrication and future protection.
CAIG/DeOxit products are expensive (I'll give you that), but they do work as advertised, and have a solid history to back them up. In this case, you DO get what you pay for.
Do you like Coke or Pepsi? or buy the crappy generic COLA because it is $2 cheaper per 12 pack, even though you don't like it?
JIF or Skippy or Peter Pan, or that unknown brown stuff in a jar labeled "peanut butter"?
Think about it for a minute...
BTW--I'm from PA, so there is no other than Heinz ketchup LOL
grillebilly
Empty Head
If you get the large cans from Guitar Center, for around $12 last time I checked, chances are you will never need another can if you are just doing your own stuff. Money well spent IMO.
There is a Deoxit sticky somewhere on AK, too lazy to look right now.
There is a Deoxit sticky somewhere on AK, too lazy to look right now.
I love this post!
Some day I may try to figure out all the ingredients and ratios in their faderlube (as I did with record cleaning solutions), but until then, this stuff is magical.
savatage1973
Addicted Member
Glad you enjoyed it--the old saying "penny wise and pound foolish" is often correct. Will I pay the extra couple bucks for something that I know I like, or know it works--HELL YES!!!
If a couple bucks is going to kill you for anything (in this hobby, or your choice of peanut butter) you either need to take a laxative, a sedative, or just realize that there are more important and expensive things to worry about in life.
If a couple bucks is going to kill you for anything (in this hobby, or your choice of peanut butter) you either need to take a laxative, a sedative, or just realize that there are more important and expensive things to worry about in life.
DrumminDaddy
Hit it, Baby !!
JURB
Super Member
I have never used a Caig product in my life.
Generally I use LPS2 and then rinse with someting that is residue free. If I want lube I don't rinse so much, but you have to get it off the board.
I say this, DO NOT use that CRC **** or anytihng came from Radio Shack and a few others.
To test, spray some on a piece of paper and see if it leaves anytihng. Also, take the stuff and stick a REAL ohmmeter's probes into it, I mean on at least a 20 meg scale.
JURB
Super Member
Savatage : "You keep shopping at *******and changing the oil in your vehicle with the $3/qt recycled oil and the $2 filter. I'll keep buying brand name full synthetic and Fram or K&N filters--come talk to me in 200K miles."
I have had cars go practically forever without changing oil per specs. Bottom line is that newer cars do not need this, but the collusion between gasoline producers and auto manufacturers is a symbiotic one.
I will say this, some of these newer engine do need it, but not for the reason you might think. Your rings and bearings are not going to wear out, what is going to happen is that the rods or posts whatever in the links of your timing chain(s) will wear to the point where the tensioner will no longer take up the slack. Then the engine will jump time and almost every engine out there is an interference engine which means pulling the heads and having some or all valves replaced and lapped in. (actually they don't even lap them in anymore except at racing type shops ?)
Bottom line, like Caig, that superfilter and super uper duper oil only buys you do much. You change the oil every 3,000 miles, add that up, in 300,000 miles that is 100 times the cost. If it is $50 per oil chnge, that is fifty grand.
You will have a hard time getting fifty grand out of a car with 300,000 miles on it.
It is a matter of perspective.
I have had cars go practically forever without changing oil per specs. Bottom line is that newer cars do not need this, but the collusion between gasoline producers and auto manufacturers is a symbiotic one.
I will say this, some of these newer engine do need it, but not for the reason you might think. Your rings and bearings are not going to wear out, what is going to happen is that the rods or posts whatever in the links of your timing chain(s) will wear to the point where the tensioner will no longer take up the slack. Then the engine will jump time and almost every engine out there is an interference engine which means pulling the heads and having some or all valves replaced and lapped in. (actually they don't even lap them in anymore except at racing type shops ?)
Bottom line, like Caig, that superfilter and super uper duper oil only buys you do much. You change the oil every 3,000 miles, add that up, in 300,000 miles that is 100 times the cost. If it is $50 per oil chnge, that is fifty grand.
You will have a hard time getting fifty grand out of a car with 300,000 miles on it.
It is a matter of perspective.
From my perspective that comes out to only five grand.
Or the cost of one engine overhaul!
I love when people refer to "modern engines" being somehow different in terms of maintenance. They remain internal combustion engines, and while electronics have advanced and new technologies for injection, vvt, and efficiency have emerged, the basic physics are the same. If anything, cheaper Chinese parts are more prevalent. Oil formulations and synthetics have made oil changes less frequent, but they don't eliminate the need for them...there are tons of studies on-line regarding this, but all you have to do is examine and smell old oil to figure it out. As they say, YMMV.
Back on topic: is it best to put a towel under a pot or switch to absorb excess Deoxit when sprayed or do people just let it evaporate? I ask because even with just a spritz, there always seems to be excess. I've used the liquid but it doesn't get into covered pots as well.
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savatage1973
Addicted Member
With the exception of my diesel truck, I use a method I learned from a taxi driver/taxi mechanic. Use really high grade oil and filters, but only change the filter every 3-5K miles and just top off the oil--do a full oil change ever 10-15K miles. That's what the cab company did for decades, even before the cleaner, tighter tolerance engines, and you know what kind of abuse a taxi takes.
The old oils used to break down and the old engines produced a lot of crud. The new stuff holds up great as long as you keep it clean, so just changing the filter regularly extends the lifespan of the oil to its full potential.
The old oils used to break down and the old engines produced a lot of crud. The new stuff holds up great as long as you keep it clean, so just changing the filter regularly extends the lifespan of the oil to its full potential.
ConradH
Lunatic Member
The pot question would be easier to answer if there were only one type of resistive element and one type of wiper. If you look at lubricant compatibility charts, things get more complicated. We don't know the exact composition of the track, so lube recommendations are a best guess. Nye has some lubricants recommended for pots. I use Caig D5 in pots and it works, but it's not optimum as it can leave them dry and prone to more noise sooner than you'd expect. You almost always need a lubricant in there. Enter Caig Faderlube. I also pack paper towel around any controls I spray to keep the stuff off the surrounding area and circuit boards.
@rafael1971:
for potentiometers, I recommend to use DeoxIT 100% spray (part # D100S-2), it will clean and also will lubricate, so you only need this one product.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1605/.f
Direction on how to clean potentiometer with DeoxIT:
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.52/.f
To all:
CAIG just created a new questionnaire form on the website to help you selecting the proper DeoxIT® Product, Concentrate and Applicator in your service and maintenance processes. Please feel free to fill it out and we would be more than happy to help you.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.19/.f
for potentiometers, I recommend to use DeoxIT 100% spray (part # D100S-2), it will clean and also will lubricate, so you only need this one product.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1605/.f
Direction on how to clean potentiometer with DeoxIT:
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.52/.f
To all:
CAIG just created a new questionnaire form on the website to help you selecting the proper DeoxIT® Product, Concentrate and Applicator in your service and maintenance processes. Please feel free to fill it out and we would be more than happy to help you.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.19/.f
Awesome!
toxcrusadr
Omelette au Fromage
It kind of annoys me when someone posts that they would never use such and such a product or do something a certain way, but doesn't have the courtesy to share their recommended alternative. It's completely unhelpful to those asking, it's not backed up with any kind of reasoning to support it, and it just comes off sounding superior on top of it.
Rant over. :-]
At least one of the 5 'secret' ingredients in DeOxit - the major one other than naptha solvent - is known and it's relatively easy to make up a poor man's DeOxit by the quart. If a person was doing a lot of volume it would be worth it for a first pass, followed by a shot of 'the good stuff' to finish off and treat/lube surfaces.
Rant over. :-]
At least one of the 5 'secret' ingredients in DeOxit - the major one other than naptha solvent - is known and it's relatively easy to make up a poor man's DeOxit by the quart. If a person was doing a lot of volume it would be worth it for a first pass, followed by a shot of 'the good stuff' to finish off and treat/lube surfaces.
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