Connection Advice
- Thread starter A/V Dude
- Start date
lini
just me...
Ideal connection(s) would generally depend on one's requirements and preferences.
For example, for a connection between your Thinkpad and the Integra you could consider a Hifime S2 Digi (USB <-> optical SPDIF I/O converter; see there: https://hifimediy.com/product/s2-digi/), which would offer galvanic isolation by principle, so that you wouldn't have to worry about ground loop problems. That thingy could be either connected directly to one of the optical SPDIF inputs of your Integra, thus using the integrated DAC section of the Integra - or alternatively you could also hook a standalone DAC with optical SPDIF input in between, the analogue output of which you'd then connect to one of the line-level inputs of the Integra.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
Since when does Apple explain to their users how their gear and operating systems work. They built a business on keeping users out of the operating system or performing hardware upgrades in general.
OK, that's enough squabbling about IPhone Lightning/USB-C and whether it contains a DAC.
From https://support.apple.com/en-us/118295
Further argument of this point will result in a threadban. Thanks for your cooperation.
From https://support.apple.com/en-us/118295
Further argument of this point will result in a threadban. Thanks for your cooperation.
WillVT
Super Member
I think the easiest and best way to go is get a Wiim Mini (or other Wiim) and connect it's optical output to the Integra, which has 2 optical inputs. I would think the Integra would have a pretty good DAC. Tidal and Wiim work well together, and it's all controlled by your phone, either in the Tidal app or the Wiim app.
As far as the discussion on USB adapters, there's a lot of confusing information here. The bottom line is, USB is a digital format. USB does not do analog. So, any signal coming out of a USB plug on a phone/tablet/computer is DIGITAL. Therefore, to be converted to 3.5mm or RCA, which is ANALOG, there has to be a DAC somewhere between USB and 3.5mm/RCA plugs. So, all USB adapter dongles have a DAC. That's just how it works.
EDIT: Sorry, I just saw the above reply. Just trying to clear up this topic, not argue.
As far as the discussion on USB adapters, there's a lot of confusing information here. The bottom line is, USB is a digital format. USB does not do analog. So, any signal coming out of a USB plug on a phone/tablet/computer is DIGITAL. Therefore, to be converted to 3.5mm or RCA, which is ANALOG, there has to be a DAC somewhere between USB and 3.5mm/RCA plugs. So, all USB adapter dongles have a DAC. That's just how it works.
EDIT: Sorry, I just saw the above reply. Just trying to clear up this topic, not argue.
I would say, first of all, welcome to AK.
Second, if it were me, I would want to reconsider the entire concept of what you are trying to do. I would ask that you consider the following: Often when using headphones (especially earbuds) they tend to be rather lackluster in performance to real speakers (although some headphones are better than others). The DACs built into Iphones and similar (like the old laptop) are not great. In fact, they are actually on the lower end of the spectrum.... In addition, "Tidal Music" and other streaming services, while claiming "hifi" or "High-Resolution" sound, often stream at 128k and similar. Proper hifi equipment, even elderly equipment, will expose this mediocre format with absolute ruthlessness. While it may sound good via the phone or laptop, it will not sound that great on proper equipment. 
My recommendation: I would utilize the Lenovo to access the provider, then have a stand-alone performance DAC, such as a Schitt Audio Modi 3+ convert the signal to analog, and further send it to your existing equipment. This would allow the best possible sound and the lowest cost.
WillVT
Super Member
That's an interesting statement. Can I ask how you came by that? My Wiim app shows the bit and sample rate when playing Tidal, and it's never under CD quality.
Now, whether they are up sampling lower res files is a whole different issue, but Tidal definitely doesn't stream in 128k.
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The assumption is that streaming services stream in "high resolution", but that is not always the case. I cannot speak about Tidal specifically, but many stream at 128k, or variable bit rates. Even if the OP had guaranteed access to these "CD quality" files, his setup would be hampered by the limitations of the onboard sound device of the phone and old laptop. This would then also create a bottleneck.
Mike_S
Well-Known Member
The assumption is that streaming services stream in "high resolution", but that is not always the case. I cannot speak about Tidal specifically, but many stream at 128k, or variable bit rates. Even if the OP had guaranteed access to these "CD quality" files, his setup would be hampered by the limitations of the onboard sound device of the phone and old laptop. This would then also create a bottleneck.
This is also why streaming is difficult. You have several ways to stream the music, then there are several ways to hook up the device the music is coming from. Then there is the underlying internet service. Lastly, there is app setup.
With 1000's of variables, we will all get different results.
Unless you really know what you are doing, or have above average computer skills, the path of least resistance to "best sound" is...
Buy streamer with internal DAC, wire to AUX, set everything to MAX quality (this is very important!), play music through the streamer (aka Tidal Connect) with your phone/tablet being the remote control.
For me, using Tidal, nothing has been less then 16/44