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Console with tube speakers

angelaudio

Super Member
A37A33A8-A6B2-4930-91AB-BBA02FDE5325.jpeg EC428905-71BD-4529-8B75-5EA64866611D.jpeg 39B4A0B0-7404-412D-BAE2-F95E7303F3CD.jpeg 4968AEB7-B1D6-4734-A794-6FC131E40612.jpeg A37A33A8-A6B2-4930-91AB-BBA02FDE5325.jpeg EC428905-71BD-4529-8B75-5EA64866611D.jpeg 39B4A0B0-7404-412D-BAE2-F95E7303F3CD.jpeg Hey fellow AK’ers!

I went to an estate sale today and found a console with Garrard turntable and upon further inspection of the console found that it has tube speakers!

I’m really excited to get it in working order but there are a few issues:

1. I’m a total tube novice and know nothing about them.
2. Is deoxit acceptable to use for scratchy pots?
3. Should I just take it to a qualified service guy instead of messing with it?

I hooked up my technics TT but I’m only getting sound from one speaker which is why I was wondering if deoxit would clear up the issue with the scratchy pots.

P.S. the brand is ‘Clairtone Sound Corporation, Ltd.’ made in Toronto, Canada

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 
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ok - tubes are pretty easy. There's a heater, a cathode, some grids, and plates. The heater just warms it up to make it work. The cathode emits electrons, they fly through the grids (if there are any - the rectifier you're holding in the pic doesn't have any), and hit the plate, where they go on their merry way into another part of the circuit.

They're like big warm FETs.

Tubes run at higher voltages and lower currents. We're talking 50-450 volts, and 1 - 100 ma. In general :)

Deoxit is ok for scratchy pots.

Now, the big thing is, with these old units, the capacitors like to go bad, especially the paper wax ones. In short, they short out, leaking electricity from one side to another, which can destroy all sorts of hard to replace (expensive) components. But, you can get the capacitors replaced, and the new ones will perform better in every way (you get better sound than when it was built. Some folks argue about this, but if modern caps were available back then, designers would have used them).

One you have the unit 're-capped', then it's a matter of replacing any bad tubes. Nice thing about tubes is when they're bad, you can sometimes tell - they don't get as hot, they might have a white powdery look on the inside, or just not light up.

Your dead channel might be because of a bad tube, capacitors, or something else. Don't run it until it's checked out - you could damage it.

Clairtones tended to be at least average, and typically better than that, so getting this guy working is probably worth it. Not stupidly powerful (about 5-6 watts per channel!) but it should perform decently enough.
 
I recently found and bought a tube console to learn tube electronics. I don't have any experience with it now, but that will change. I don't think that getting tube amps running is beyond most people's capabilities, but there are things we should learn.

I do know old tube amps should have new filter caps installed, I know there are lethal voltages present, I know that it would be smart to understand a little theory before messing around too much. There are several sticky's in the tube forum I've begun to read in preparation for my project.

Do you want to learn tube electronics or just get a console to play some tunes? If it's the former then start studying. If it's the latter then get a tech.

Sorry in advance, but I am going to nit pick. The speakers are not tube, they are passive. The amp is a tube amp. :)
 
Here's the Sams schematic. You can enlarge it to see details.

The amp uses a pair of 6GW8s, which combines a triode driver section and a pentode output in a single tube. Hopefully yours are in good shape because they are relatively scarce. Not much power. The amp is SE (single-ended) which means it has one output tube per channel. It probably puts out around 3 or 4 watts per channel.
 

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ok - tubes are pretty easy. There's a heater, a cathode, some grids, and plates. The heater just warms it up to make it work. The cathode emits electrons, they fly through the grids (if there are any - the rectifier you're holding in the pic doesn't have any), and hit the plate, where they go on their merry way into another part of the circuit.

They're like big warm FETs.

Tubes run at higher voltages and lower currents. We're talking 50-450 volts, and 1 - 100 ma. In general :)

Deoxit is ok for scratchy pots.

Now, the big thing is, with these old units, the capacitors like to go bad, especially the paper wax ones. In short, they short out, leaking electricity from one side to another, which can destroy all sorts of hard to replace (expensive) components. But, you can get the capacitors replaced, and the new ones will perform better in every way (you get better sound than when it was built. Some folks argue about this, but if modern caps were available back then, designers would have used them).

One you have the unit 're-capped', then it's a matter of replacing any bad tubes. Nice thing about tubes is when they're bad, you can sometimes tell - they don't get as hot, they might have a white powdery look on the inside, or just not light up.

Your dead channel might be because of a bad tube, capacitors, or something else. Don't run it until it's checked out - you could damage it.

Clairtones tended to be at least average, and typically better than that, so getting this guy working is probably worth it. Not stupidly powerful (about 5-6 watts per channel!) but it should perform decently enough.

Thanks for breaking down the basics nasadowsk. It doesn’t seem too daunting now.

So...I was watching some YouTube (D-Lab) and the guy did a video about hum, which was what I was hearing from my console, sounded like 60 cycle hum (low pitched). And so I pulled the plugs and took out the amp and plugged it back in and turned it on and lo and behold no hum! Which leads me to believe that the problem is in the audio signal path. I have included a picture of what I believe the culprit to be. Are those the paper and wax caps you were referring to? Excuse my ignorance on the issue and lack of parts knowledge.

Thanks in advance
 
ok - tubes are pretty easy. There's a heater, a cathode, some grids, and plates. The heater just warms it up to make it work. The cathode emits electrons, they fly through the grids (if there are any - the rectifier you're holding in the pic doesn't have any), and hit the plate, where they go on their merry way into another part of the circuit.

They're like big warm FETs.

Tubes run at higher voltages and lower currents. We're talking 50-450 volts, and 1 - 100 ma. In general :)

Deoxit is ok for scratchy pots.

Now, the big thing is, with these old units, the capacitors like to go bad, especially the paper wax ones. In short, they short out, leaking electricity from one side to another, which can destroy all sorts of hard to replace (expensive) components. But, you can get the capacitors replaced, and the new ones will perform better in every way (you get better sound than when it was built. Some folks argue about this, but if modern caps were available back then, designers would have used them).

One you have the unit 're-capped', then it's a matter of replacing any bad tubes. Nice thing about tubes is when they're bad, you can sometimes tell - they don't get as hot, they might have a white powdery look on the inside, or just not light up.

Your dead channel might be because of a bad tube, capacitors, or something else. Don't run it until it's checked out - you could damage it.

Clairtones tended to be at least average, and typically better than that, so getting this guy working is probably worth it. Not stupidly powerful (about 5-6 watts per channel!) but it should perform decently enough.
Oh and by the way, deoxit got the dead channel working again. I was using the fm tuner and apart from the hum the thing sounded amazing
 
Here's the Sams schematic. You can enlarge it to see details.

The amp uses a pair of 6GW8s, which combines a triode driver section and a pentode output in a single tube. Hopefully yours are in good shape because they are relatively scarce. Not much power. The amp is SE (single-ended) which means it has one output tube per channel. It probably puts out around 3 or 4 watts per channel.
I got it up and running last night, used the fm tuner, and it sounded pretty good to my ears. All the tubes got rather warm and lit up with that nice orange glow.
 

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I recently found and bought a tube console to learn tube electronics. I don't have any experience with it now, but that will change. I don't think that getting tube amps running is beyond most people's capabilities, but there are things we should learn.

I do know old tube amps should have new filter caps installed, I know there are lethal voltages present, I know that it would be smart to understand a little theory before messing around too much. There are several sticky's in the tube forum I've begun to read in preparation for my project.

Do you want to learn tube electronics or just get a console to play some tunes? If it's the former then start studying. If it's the latter then get a tech.

Sorry in advance, but I am going to nit pick. The speakers are not tube, they are passive. The amp is a tube amp. :)

Yes I most definitely would like to learn tube! It’s been more than 15 years since I soldered anything but I am intrigued by the warmth and seeming simplicity of the tube amp so off on the tube road Of knowledge I go!

And yes...tube AMP hahaha my mistake
 
I have a Clairtone console (push-pull EL84) with magnetic phono stage. Wonderful piece of furniture and audio. 6GW8 is less powerful but knowing the quality of mine, you'll sure like it.
 
I have a Clairtone console (push-pull EL84) with magnetic phono stage. Wonderful piece of furniture and audio. 6GW8 is less powerful but knowing the quality of mine, you'll sure like it.

Patrice,

I actually don't like it...i love it! I can't get over the warmth, depth, and clarity of these tubes. I was listening to the fm tuner last night and WOW blown away.

I tried hooking up my technics sl-d303 to the RCA inputs on the amp and although it worked and i got sound coming out of the speakers, the volume was very low. Do i need a pre-amp?
 
Does'nt look like it's too bad to re-cap - if you're anything good with electronics, it's pretty simple. Also, that power supply - Clairtone must have gotten a bargain on 50 mfd capacitors (a 47 will work just fine here, by the way. Few of the paper wax or electrolytics are really critical to anything)
 
Patrice,

I actually don't like it...i love it! I can't get over the warmth, depth, and clarity of these tubes. I was listening to the fm tuner last night and WOW blown away.

I tried hooking up my technics sl-d303 to the RCA inputs on the amp and although it worked and i got sound coming out of the speakers, the volume was very low. Do i need a pre-amp?
Probably ceramic input only... So yes!
 
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