Converting Dynaco A-25's to accept banana plugs?

[john5220]

I have a set of A-25 speakers with the screw type connector where you wrap the speaker wire around the terminal. How big of a deal is it to convert the connector to accept banana plugs? TIA!

 

[wlhd1610]

Gee,
Every pair of A25's I've had look like this on the back....





Already equipped with banana jacks

Are you sure those are Dynaco A25's?



And yes,you can remove that screw terminal strip and install a dual banana jack strip.

Bob

 

[avguytx]

Both pairs of mine had them, too. I did replace both pairs but they were originally there.

Are those A10's maybe? I had a pair of those once and dont recall those having binding posts. The mounts definitely look Dynaco-ish.

 

[Blue Shadow]

Won't know until you dive inside and see where the screw terminals terminate on the inside. If they can be removed easily without rebuilding the speaker you can slap a pair of those shiny gold with clear plastic binding posts on the speakers. I hate to cheap looking gold shiny, clear plastic pieces. Much prefer a dual binding post with the red and black plastic. Real pro stuff, Pomona.

But if you do yank out that woofer to dive inside, you can poke around and see what you want to do. I like the recessed binding posts on the A25 and would do the same on these. Build the crossover on a chunk of hardboard and cut a hole in the back of the box and mount the hardboard inside with the binding posts centered or positioned for ease of use sticking through that new hole. Staples and hot glue/wood glue will work to mount that hardboard in the cabinet for a professional look.

 

[RxDx]

Another option is to cut some short leads, put spade terminals on one end
and banana plugs on the other. Voilà

 

[RichPA]

All of my Dynaco speakers have had banana compatible terminals, too. But, this is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/Banana-Spade-Adapter-Speaker-Connector/dp/B006Z8NE18?tag=viglink4323590-20

 

[swechsler]

Another option is to cut some short leads, put spade terminals on one end
and banana plugs on the other. Voilà

I agree with this post and the following one. Putting binding posts on those speakers is just asking for trouble - they'll be fragile, sticking 1" out the back with no protection.

 

[JMiP]

All of my Dynaco speakers have had banana compatible terminals, too. But, this is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/Banana-Spade-Adapter-Speaker-Connector/dp/B006Z8NE18?tag=viglink4323590-20

Good idea, but the page says that they are out of stock. NOOOOooooo! Maybe this still works?

 

[Kenny Brant]

https://www.parts-express.com/round...-15-16-gold-binding-post-banana-jack--260-283

 

[62vauxhall]

What RxDx said.

Spades and inline banana jacks at the ends of a foot of speaker wire. It beats dicking with installing jacks on speakers and keeps them original.

I also do likewise with old amplifiers that have screw terminals for speaker output connections.

 

[CKDC]

I agree with this post and the following one. Putting binding posts on those speakers is just asking for trouble - they'll be fragile, sticking 1" out the back with no protection.

Many British speakers do this. It does not seem to be a big deal.

 

[Blue Shadow]

Another option is to cut some short leads, put spade terminals on one end
and banana plugs on the other. Voilà

Best Chinese product I have bought off ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-4mm...082400?hash=item4d99fe9de0:g:2N8AAOSwJkJWj4Pr

I used these for the meter ends for Triplett and Simpson analog meters, jumpers for those crappy Yamaha/HK Citation speaker connectors and jumpers for speakers with the connection on the bottom of a 100 pound tower speaker. Made this pair for the latter application, 14 gauge named, quality speaker wire from the past with thick insulation so the connector would be able to take a larger gauge wire with normal insulation on it.



I like the soft silicone boot for pliability and because it comes out and covers the metal internals, there is a lip on the boot to hold the jack in the boot. I like the large solder well for attaching the wire and the hole in the boot for the wire is adequate for reasonable sized speaker wire. And the AK goodness of these is that they are cheap. I got a ten pack, probably could have used a few more but I'm good now. Look for a better deal, I just copied the first listing I found. Get the number you need and enjoy. If you don't install cups of those clear plastic with yellow metal inside binding posts I hate.



Those crappy Yamaha/HK connections: You need to put the wire through the screw on piece and splay out the wiring and then tighten this piece onto the connector on the amp. This sucks, has a pin in the middle of the connector on the amp to make it more difficult and is just hard to use so makes swapping difficult. With a pair of these jumpers dangling down, banana plugs bolt right up.

 

[thilaseen]

I agree that wrapping the speaker wire is a pita but the simplest fix would be to just solder spades on. Still need a screwdriver to firmly fix though.

 

[rider33]

Those types of binding posts were not uncommon even on very expensive speakers (and Amps) back in the day.
Then again Amp output tended to be more modest and speaker wire less meaty too. 'New posts, extensions; whatever floats your boat but there are simple & inexpensive solutions that can make it better. I doubt the speaker will care but you'll feel better. I just did that on a genormus pair of Bozak's actually and while sonically it's most likely irrelevant, shiny-is-good for the soul:

 

[vintagerocks]

You can get these small terminal cups off eBay or other sites. It is simple to mount these using a hole saw and they won't stick out. I bought a dozen off of eBay from China at less than $2 each shipped. It just takes a while for delivery from overseas. These mount perfectly in the hole in small speakers that have push terminals on the back.