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Coral 15TX-1 Triaxial Speaker

Replace the wire that runs from the speaker to the back panel, don't mess with the attenuator cable.

I can't stress enough the difference this made on mine as well as DeOxit in the attenuator. Run, don't walk and get some, I would be shocked if the tweeter were bad, but you never know what moron had these before you. Maybe they hooked them up to a SX-1280 and turned the volume to eleven. Not good with these old drivers.

I have a pair of funky Corals that the tweeters are all shot in, lets hope that is not the case with yours.

Thanks for the pictures.

Gary
 
The wire that goes from the back of the speaker goes through the back wall of the cabinet to the amp. ITs all one continous wire.

Also there is no way for me to get into the attenuator. Its sealed. I tried getting the cover off with no luck.

I am hoping all is well but we shall see.
 
Get some binding posts for the back of the cabs.

Look for any little area to blast the DeOxit into, it won't take much just get some in there and turn the knob as fast as you can.

Gary
 
yea planed on the binding posts eventually. Right now im working on sorting out the probs.

I will get the deoxit from john and hit them up. I was able to get resistance reading from them though. Thats why im thinking its the tweet. I PMed gordon hopefully he can help,
 
I also got a resistence reading from mine before the DeOxit, so don't panic just yet.

What kind of wire are they using from speaker to amp, does it have more that a few threads of wire? Mine had a whopping 3 threads of very thin wire, not good.

Good luck and keep us up to date.

Gary
 
The speaker wire has a few more that three threads.
I could not find my zip cord anywhere so I am lacking any speaker wire.

Hopefully johncan will be over in the morning and we can shoot the attenuators with some deoxit and hope all is good.

Just out of curosity how can I get a resistance value and it still not work? I would think that if i get some readings that there is continunity between the in and out of the attenuator.

Jsut a thought
 
Well john and I spent part of the morning on the 4th cleaning the attenuators. It seemed to have helped some. I dont know if its just the speaker and the lack of top end or if something else is wrong.

I have my advents stacked on top and they actually sound really good together. When I turn the corals off the advents fall on their face. Cannot produce the midbass and bottom end like the corals. I think the cabs have alot to do with that.

I was wondering.....How hard would it be to find a pair of horns to sit on top to fill in the top end of the corals? Also what should I look for?
 
Should not be to difficult. There are people out there that have mounted the tweeter on the slot up at ear level. Also make a Karlson vent out of PVC pipe and mount the tweeter behind it.

Check out the Karlson website for ideas on tweeter placement.

Good luck.

Gary
 
I too had some trouble with some full range speakers a couple of months ago the low output could be coroded wires inside the bell causing weak or sporadic connections. I had coroded jumper wire connections for the tweeters that had become weak and dirty causing the tweeters to be silent. With the touch of a soldering iron they perked right back to life. It kind of sucks popping the sticker or badge off to remove the bell cover but it could solve the problem. On a side note the karlson is not the best speaker in the world with the high end of the bandwidth mainly due to the upward firing of the tweeter. I have seen more than a few EV t35's mounted in the front baffle to add the sparke that is lost.
 
The karlson is fine for highs if you use a coaxial driver like it was designed for originally. I have no problem with mine using a Jensen coax, actually need to turn down the tweeters a touch. There must be something amiss in the Corals. Keep looking they could be great drivers if fixed up.

Brainsmasher is right on the use of a tweeter with a fullrange driver, Fullrange drivers just don't generate enough high frequency output to work around the odd placement of the driver.

Gary
 
I am going to see if there is a way to pop the metal badge off without damaging it and still be able to put it back on.

I imagine once the tweets are working these will sound fab and I might possibly get rid of my advents. just have to see what happens. I dont know if I would rather mess up the badge in the chance to fix the tweeter or keep it on there and just piggy back a tweeter.
 
On the pair of Corals I had, once the 2 screws for the logo plate were removerd, it exposed a screw underneath that held the bell cover on. Hopefully yours will be the same way.

Good luck and keep us up to date.

Gary
 
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