I came across a pair of the Dave Harris Fastlane HF elliptical wood tweeter lens w/B&C DE10's. They're painted black and, to my eye look about the same size and shape as the SMAHLs. I think Dean mentioned they were more or less the same thing. I was looking at the wood versions of the SMAHLs but the Fastlane HF came up on eBay and I went with them (slightly cheaper). Still, I wonder about the LMAHL's but at this point I'm probably not going to worry about it. FWIW, another tweeter horn I think about might be the Faital STH-100 (https://usspeaker.com/Faital Pro STH100-1.htm) which I've seen used. I guess DE-10's are not the latest thing but since they came with the Fastlane HF horns seems like a reasonable place to start.
Cornscala build
- Thread starter Transmogify
- Start date
re. cabinet building, I think abut the exact points you mentioned all the time. 
Big part of the project is trying to wrap my head around that part. I'd need more tooling, incl. clamps, etc., and there's an investment would need to be made. I'm also on the lookout I can find someone to cut the motorboards -- I know Crites offers them, but none of the Crites styles will fit the Eliptrac 400 midrange horn (I emailed him about my plan to use the Eliptrac); also, I may want a somewhat narrower form-factor (21" W x 17" D x 36" H).
I've also been toying with the idea of perhaps starting with a smaller (Forte-sized) cabinet, 12" woofer, etc. (16"W x 17"D x 34"H).
Big part of the project is trying to wrap my head around that part. I'd need more tooling, incl. clamps, etc., and there's an investment would need to be made. I'm also on the lookout I can find someone to cut the motorboards -- I know Crites offers them, but none of the Crites styles will fit the Eliptrac 400 midrange horn (I emailed him about my plan to use the Eliptrac); also, I may want a somewhat narrower form-factor (21" W x 17" D x 36" H).I've also been toying with the idea of perhaps starting with a smaller (Forte-sized) cabinet, 12" woofer, etc. (16"W x 17"D x 34"H).
Transmogify
New Member
I’m a furniture maker I have everything I need to build these at home.
Personally I think it’s a very basic cabinet and could definitely get it perfectly square drilling and screwing it alone it’s just a box. If you read the rest of the thread you would have seen I’ve previously built a fully horn loaded concert PA system.
style Bs are within the scope of someone with basic knowledge woodworking knowledge to build big part of why they’re popular to build.
Yes I agree it would definitely be easier for someone with basic skills to order the front baffle from crites, no harm in giving it a go especially seen as the other commenter is doing a mock with mdf more satisfaction building it all yourself.
It will be a while but I’ll post my photos when I’m done, will be building them with hand tools drivers will be as snug as a cnc cut baffle.
I agree about giving the cabinets a try. Like many things, you never know until you try and making mistakes is part of the game and even if I start with the standard dimensions I'd like to have the option to make changes, learn what works, what doesn't. Have to start somewhere. I think I can beg, borrow, some of the basic tools and I've been putting aside building related tips from other Cornscala threads as I do my background research. Router, a jig for cutting the woofer opening, pocket screw jig can be handy I've heard, etc., etc. I don't know if it's possible to have the plywood (or even MDF) panels cut a bit oversize maybe at the lumber yard (or big-box store for prototype), then fine-tune with neighbor who has a table saw. We have a pretty high-tech hobby shop at the academic institution where I work with tools being another possible option.
Thanks for the encouragement. Pictures always help. Interesting you should mention hand-tools, I have a former colleague who I pepper with woodworking questions in preparation for getting started (one of these days) who always suggests what might be done using hand tools. You're probably the first person I've come across who's mentioned hand-tools in a speaker building thread.
Thanks for the encouragement. Pictures always help. Interesting you should mention hand-tools, I have a former colleague who I pepper with woodworking questions in preparation for getting started (one of these days) who always suggests what might be done using hand tools. You're probably the first person I've come across who's mentioned hand-tools in a speaker building thread.
I hadn’t looked at the BMS data sheet in a long time. It’s a 118dB/2.83v driver. Most of the people I work with are using Klipschorns and LaScalas, which have higher sensitivity. So a bit more room to work with. The issue relates to balancing the drivers.
Klipsch will show the Cornwall with a K-33 woofer as 102dB/2.83v. There is a footnote on the spec - “in average listening room”. What does that mean? It means Klipsch adds 4dB of room gain to the specification. The assumption is that the owner will place them based on the set up instructions. To get that, you need boundary reinforcement, i.e., walls, and preferably corners. Most people however, normally have them on a single wall, pulled out, and turned in to improve imaging. They lose half or more of this boundary effect, or gain - which is typically in the bass.
I noticed a comment related to trying a different woofer. I would be really careful here. There is a mathematical alignment between the driver, the cabinet volume and the ports. Unless you have a way to measure what you are doing, I would stick with the recipe that is tried and true. Use the K-33 or a close equivalent.
The old spec for the Cornwall is 98/99dB. That doesn’t sound like much of a difference, but it is. I split the difference and call it an even 100db. So, the midrange and tweeter need to be pulled down to match this. This would be voicing for flat(ish) response. However, many prefer a tilted down response, and this relates to the equal-loudness curves.
The horn on the driver problem: when you look at a data sheet, you will see a frequency response. This response was taken on a horn of the manufacturer’s choosing. When you change the horn, everything changes. The response, impedance curve, and sensitivity - or gain. You simply do not know what you actually have unless you measure. It is usually pretty close to what you figured it would be, but it is not perfect. The Universal is a good network, but it is not what I would call “optimized”.
With that said, it’s important to stay within the bounds of things that people have done before that have been measured and we know works. The more you move away from that, the less you know about what you actually have - unless you measure.
The BMS problem: the 4592-mid is a great driver, but it is 118dB/2.83v. To bring it down to 100dB to match the woofer, you need to knock off 18dB from the midrange. Having an autoformer that takes off 18dB in 1dB increments is not really helpful here. You have bottomed out and have no wiggle room for further adjustments if you think the midrange is too forward.
The B&C DCM50 is a better choice for this application. it uses a composite diaphragm that everyone seems to like the sound of. I have never read a negative review about this driver. At 108dB/2.83v, it leaves quite a bit of adjustability in place for dialing things in.
Klipsch will show the Cornwall with a K-33 woofer as 102dB/2.83v. There is a footnote on the spec - “in average listening room”. What does that mean? It means Klipsch adds 4dB of room gain to the specification. The assumption is that the owner will place them based on the set up instructions. To get that, you need boundary reinforcement, i.e., walls, and preferably corners. Most people however, normally have them on a single wall, pulled out, and turned in to improve imaging. They lose half or more of this boundary effect, or gain - which is typically in the bass.
I noticed a comment related to trying a different woofer. I would be really careful here. There is a mathematical alignment between the driver, the cabinet volume and the ports. Unless you have a way to measure what you are doing, I would stick with the recipe that is tried and true. Use the K-33 or a close equivalent.
The old spec for the Cornwall is 98/99dB. That doesn’t sound like much of a difference, but it is. I split the difference and call it an even 100db. So, the midrange and tweeter need to be pulled down to match this. This would be voicing for flat(ish) response. However, many prefer a tilted down response, and this relates to the equal-loudness curves.
The horn on the driver problem: when you look at a data sheet, you will see a frequency response. This response was taken on a horn of the manufacturer’s choosing. When you change the horn, everything changes. The response, impedance curve, and sensitivity - or gain. You simply do not know what you actually have unless you measure. It is usually pretty close to what you figured it would be, but it is not perfect. The Universal is a good network, but it is not what I would call “optimized”.
With that said, it’s important to stay within the bounds of things that people have done before that have been measured and we know works. The more you move away from that, the less you know about what you actually have - unless you measure.
The BMS problem: the 4592-mid is a great driver, but it is 118dB/2.83v. To bring it down to 100dB to match the woofer, you need to knock off 18dB from the midrange. Having an autoformer that takes off 18dB in 1dB increments is not really helpful here. You have bottomed out and have no wiggle room for further adjustments if you think the midrange is too forward.
The B&C DCM50 is a better choice for this application. it uses a composite diaphragm that everyone seems to like the sound of. I have never read a negative review about this driver. At 108dB/2.83v, it leaves quite a bit of adjustability in place for dialing things in.
Last edited:
Transmogify
New Member
Thanks Dean
Yes, thanks Dean, for taking the time to explain further about the 4592-mid. I'm fine with the DCM-50 recommendation. However, out of curiosity and for future reference (and in general terms for those of us who aren't that well-versed with crossovers might follow) what would an optimized crossover solution for the BMS 4592 look like? Sounds like you are saying it wouldn't be a Universal, as such, right? I believe the Volti Audio Rival uses the 4592-mid in an approximately Klipsch Chorus-sized cabinet (volume not that far off from the Cornwall, I think) w/15" woofer and his own horn, so there are implementations that use it. However, I don't think I've come across too many discussions about the kind of crossovers considerations you've mentioned when working with it.
It’s called a “Universal”, because it’s a lower order filter type and uses a swamping resistor for the high pass. This flattens the impedance and lowers some peaks in the response. It cheats things somewhat, but it’s very effective.
Volti uses a very early iteration of the Universal, which floats the ground for the squawker. This allows a multitude of attenuation levels. The problem is, they are staggered, and there are significant gaps. In other words, you don’t get 1dB increments. When Al and me were still collaborating, we decided providing 1dB increments was worth the trade-off - so the design was changed.
To get a truly optimized network for a design that you are working on, you need an anechoic chamber (or take them outside), sophisticated measuring tools, and loudspeaker network modeling software. These networks employ corrections to any aberrations in the response, along with built in EQ. There is emphasis on acquiring a smooth power response. A lot of work.
Attached is the Klipschorn AK-4 network.
Volti uses a very early iteration of the Universal, which floats the ground for the squawker. This allows a multitude of attenuation levels. The problem is, they are staggered, and there are significant gaps. In other words, you don’t get 1dB increments. When Al and me were still collaborating, we decided providing 1dB increments was worth the trade-off - so the design was changed.
To get a truly optimized network for a design that you are working on, you need an anechoic chamber (or take them outside), sophisticated measuring tools, and loudspeaker network modeling software. These networks employ corrections to any aberrations in the response, along with built in EQ. There is emphasis on acquiring a smooth power response. A lot of work.
Attached is the Klipschorn AK-4 network.
Attachments
Last edited:
find a cabinet shop locally, I'm not sure if Crites still makes or ships cabs for assembly due to too many or much damage from shupping companies, etc.
I was able to find one locally a year ago; I was attempting to test all sorts of variations, in order to lower the price of entry for my friends, etc. ANyway, I didn't use 100% bitch 3/4 plywood, but birch with 3 plys being balsa wood for the cost of wood and all the cuts to my specs, being a cornwall 2 stock cabinet, it costed be a total of $177 for both speakers. I will say they do sound nice without a typical cornwall resonance, even b 4 any bracing; and also lighter and easier to move. AS far as drivers and horns, it's hard to beat the B&C DE-10 or 120 with a smalh lenses, or even the baby butt check lense for dirt cheap. As far as mids, it's hard to beat the zxpc 18 x 10 horn, even with the cheap PRV driver. You'll be satisfied either way, but the biggest part is finding a cabinet shop, a few long clamps and a set of 90degree clamps....as I was able to glue and screw it all up without an extra set of hands and they thankfully came out nice and square. IMO, there are minor bracing and sealing of the cabs, that outweigh the options of initially spending money on top notch drivers. Or, iow.....saving money via cheaper horns and drivers and diverting saved money to a better matched amp or pre. I would do that 1st and then upgrade drivers down the road , of not satisfied.
Speaking of which, since I opted to stick with cheaper components in some areas, I now have a ton of premium and original klipsch parts I need to sell or unload, in case ya might want some of em. I'll try and compile a list. I didn't try out cheaper alternatives for the woofer and just ordered mine from crites. It was funny because the same day they arrived I got the parts express catalogue with a K-33 replacement plastered all over the front cover.
I was able to find one locally a year ago; I was attempting to test all sorts of variations, in order to lower the price of entry for my friends, etc. ANyway, I didn't use 100% bitch 3/4 plywood, but birch with 3 plys being balsa wood for the cost of wood and all the cuts to my specs, being a cornwall 2 stock cabinet, it costed be a total of $177 for both speakers. I will say they do sound nice without a typical cornwall resonance, even b 4 any bracing; and also lighter and easier to move. AS far as drivers and horns, it's hard to beat the B&C DE-10 or 120 with a smalh lenses, or even the baby butt check lense for dirt cheap. As far as mids, it's hard to beat the zxpc 18 x 10 horn, even with the cheap PRV driver. You'll be satisfied either way, but the biggest part is finding a cabinet shop, a few long clamps and a set of 90degree clamps....as I was able to glue and screw it all up without an extra set of hands and they thankfully came out nice and square. IMO, there are minor bracing and sealing of the cabs, that outweigh the options of initially spending money on top notch drivers. Or, iow.....saving money via cheaper horns and drivers and diverting saved money to a better matched amp or pre. I would do that 1st and then upgrade drivers down the road , of not satisfied.
Speaking of which, since I opted to stick with cheaper components in some areas, I now have a ton of premium and original klipsch parts I need to sell or unload, in case ya might want some of em. I'll try and compile a list. I didn't try out cheaper alternatives for the woofer and just ordered mine from crites. It was funny because the same day they arrived I got the parts express catalogue with a K-33 replacement plastered all over the front cover.
Yes, for someone with limited woodworking the cabinets are a something of a sticking point, even if they're described as among the easiest of the Klipsch-style cabinets to build. I was thinking about a lower-cost prototype cabinet and that's an interesting idea about using the 3-ply. I have a pair of Dave Harris Eliptrac 400 mid-range horns (started sanding but currently on hold) as well as his HF wooden horns (similar to the SMAHLs) with DE-10s. Dean's Universal crossovers in the pipeline -- probably the most essential component and the biggest investment so far. Solid recommendations to go with B&C DCM-50 2" midrange compression driver and Crites 15" woofer. I've read good things about the PRV driver and ZXPC 18x10 horn combination. Wouldn't be opposed to testing the PRV but with Crites Style B baffles even the ZXPC horn would require surgery to fit, and ditto the tweeter. Michael Crites says he still sells baffles but hasn't gotten around to putting them on the site. I know there are options and I'm making more of the basic (well-braced) cabinet build problem than there probably is. Finish might be another issue, but deal with that bridge when I get to it.
I'm looking for a bit more refinement in terms of sound signature than what I've heard the stock Crites described, therefore the wish to upgrade a bit from the standard package. I have a pretty decent single-ended pentode integrated amp which I put together a few years ago (Elekit TU-8800, Lundahl transformers, Mundorf caps), which I happen to like to running in ultralinear mode (puts out about 12 watts).
Sorry if I'm repeating myself about the cabinet issue (sounding like a well-worn record).
I'm looking for a bit more refinement in terms of sound signature than what I've heard the stock Crites described, therefore the wish to upgrade a bit from the standard package. I have a pretty decent single-ended pentode integrated amp which I put together a few years ago (Elekit TU-8800, Lundahl transformers, Mundorf caps), which I happen to like to running in ultralinear mode (puts out about 12 watts).
Sorry if I'm repeating myself about the cabinet issue (sounding like a well-worn record).
Last edited:
i know what ya mean.....I'd say it's mostly birch plywood but, a bit lighter etc.....FWIW, before this build, I never had assembled or built a cabinet before, and was literally winging it, aside from online info, etc. It's the best way to go, for sure. I also tried to get baffles from Crites, but they haven't been available for quite awhile now, Or else I would have ordered a couple.
Sorry posting again on oldthread but this popped up in my search quest on a diff Klipsch topic. Anyway, was curious if ya made any progress? In any case, idk if I mentioned previously but besides never building my own cab before or owning most tools listed besides a jigsaw and drill, that one doesn't need a big # of clamps. Yeah, the idea of making sure it's all squarely glued and screwed was intimidating. However, I basically only needed 20 bucks worth, or a package of butt joint clamps(4) from harbor freight, and then maybe 2 ratchet straps with the plastic corner pieces to really square each can up perfectly. The ratchet strps will save ya a lot of money vs reg clamps unless you otgerwias have a need for them, et.c Mine came out perfect and absolutely square.....even my carpenter was shocked. But easier that ya think. The hard part is finding a shop to cut the pieces for you.
Well, funny you should ask (and thanks for asking!). 
The project has been on hold (can't remember if I mentioned earlier) but I received my pair of Dean's Universal crossover's some months ago (excited about that). Yes, I don't have any cabinet building experience but I was just looking at clamps today while at Lowe's and thinking now (end of year) would be a good time to get going. As mentioned earlier, I was also curious about using MDF for the motor boards and back panel (if nothing else then as a low-cost way of practicing cuts for the motor board). I had asked at a small local lumber yard a few weeks ago who said BB was harder (for them, at least) to come by and where else might try. So, not there yet but I hear you (also on not being afraid to go the all-MDF way).
I need to go ahead and order the 15" woofers from Crites. I'll take your clamp recommendations to heart. I could get motor boards from Crites (or, at least last time I asked he said they were $320 w/shipping) and even thought about that (I believe the ZXPC's are shorter top-to-bottom than the M2380 horns used with the Crites Model B's). With all that being the case I should just give it a shot from scratch. I guess I find it hard to take the path of lesser resistance -- which would be to order the Model B's w/the M2380 horn, but use Dean's crossovers and different midrange and tweeter drivers (and SMAHL HF horn).
Also, was reading your latest posts with interest (especially about those multi-cell horns) over on the PRV/ZXPC horn thread (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...00ph-midrange-zxpc-18x10-horn.1022611/page-56)
Again, many thanks for asking. Any photos of the projects you've been working on?
The project has been on hold (can't remember if I mentioned earlier) but I received my pair of Dean's Universal crossover's some months ago (excited about that). Yes, I don't have any cabinet building experience but I was just looking at clamps today while at Lowe's and thinking now (end of year) would be a good time to get going. As mentioned earlier, I was also curious about using MDF for the motor boards and back panel (if nothing else then as a low-cost way of practicing cuts for the motor board). I had asked at a small local lumber yard a few weeks ago who said BB was harder (for them, at least) to come by and where else might try. So, not there yet but I hear you (also on not being afraid to go the all-MDF way). I need to go ahead and order the 15" woofers from Crites. I'll take your clamp recommendations to heart. I could get motor boards from Crites (or, at least last time I asked he said they were $320 w/shipping) and even thought about that (I believe the ZXPC's are shorter top-to-bottom than the M2380 horns used with the Crites Model B's). With all that being the case I should just give it a shot from scratch. I guess I find it hard to take the path of lesser resistance -- which would be to order the Model B's w/the M2380 horn, but use Dean's crossovers and different midrange and tweeter drivers (and SMAHL HF horn).
Also, was reading your latest posts with interest (especially about those multi-cell horns) over on the PRV/ZXPC horn thread (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...00ph-midrange-zxpc-18x10-horn.1022611/page-56)
Again, many thanks for asking.
Any photos of the projects you've been working on?
I'll dig through and find some....oddly enough, I'm awaiting delivery of those dang selenium horns....Fedex has been late. But yeah, I'll find em and post em for ya.
Also, where I had luck, was finding a local Cabinet Shop closer to an industrial part of town. I think youd have most luck searching for one of them in in your locale. It was basically one of those places that custom kitchen cabinets and other expensive stuff for the interior finishing and such for people much wealthier than me, for sure. Straight up reg 3/4 inch BB 7 ply was about an extra 3-4 hundred bucks, and was about to go with another shop perhaps, then he mentioned the various potential cheaper plywoods they could use. And since I was basically trying to build the cheapest cornscala variant possible I went with the BB and balsa plywood (There may be only 2 layers of balsa and the rest is BB). But look for interior home cabinet making shops for the most luck. It was going to cost me way more just to buy sheets of the plywood from lumber places, but as a bonus I also had all my cabinet cuts made for me and all the pieces sanded down perfectly within a week. The cheapest version was supposed to be a test for friends who couldn't afford to spend the usual coin, etc. But in the end, all the cheaper variants ended up sounding just as good, if not better than shelling out for all the premium drivers, horns, etc. Bizarre indeed. Karma balanced it all out though when my vehicle engine burned up earlier this year
Also, where I had luck, was finding a local Cabinet Shop closer to an industrial part of town. I think youd have most luck searching for one of them in in your locale. It was basically one of those places that custom kitchen cabinets and other expensive stuff for the interior finishing and such for people much wealthier than me, for sure. Straight up reg 3/4 inch BB 7 ply was about an extra 3-4 hundred bucks, and was about to go with another shop perhaps, then he mentioned the various potential cheaper plywoods they could use. And since I was basically trying to build the cheapest cornscala variant possible I went with the BB and balsa plywood (There may be only 2 layers of balsa and the rest is BB). But look for interior home cabinet making shops for the most luck. It was going to cost me way more just to buy sheets of the plywood from lumber places, but as a bonus I also had all my cabinet cuts made for me and all the pieces sanded down perfectly within a week. The cheapest version was supposed to be a test for friends who couldn't afford to spend the usual coin, etc. But in the end, all the cheaper variants ended up sounding just as good, if not better than shelling out for all the premium drivers, horns, etc. Bizarre indeed. Karma balanced it all out though when my vehicle engine burned up earlier this year
well wouldn't ya know it.....somehow it managed to survive on the ol klipsch boards, but I found this in a thread from 22yrs ago!! Also, fwiw my bass cabs are exact dimensions of a Cornwall II but without the mid and tweeter cutouts in the baffle.......and to answer your other question, said thread even includes a picture of how exactly the top cabinet shall look (its why this selenium interested me because it'll make the smaller top cab the exact width etc when framed as in this picture. I also will use a maul v2 tweeter (with DE10 driver)in walnut on an L shaped bracket to sit on top. With also a possible round tractrix horn in the same fashion depending on the room. I ordered those from a maker off ebay that came with stands to stain like the cabinet and are the color black. Lastly, I have the exact fabric klipsch uses in it's current heritage speakers for grills. Anyway, heres said 22yr old commentary, but as a replacement for the khorn midrange (as it was pre cornscala days) but meets the requirements sought :Well, funny you should ask (and thanks for asking!).
I need to go ahead and order the 15" woofers from Crites. I'll take your clamp recommendations to heart. I could get motor boards from Crites (or, at least last time I asked he said they were $320 w/shipping) and even thought about that (I believe the ZXPC's are shorter top-to-bottom than the M2380 horns used with the Crites Model B's). With all that being the case I should just give it a shot from scratch. I guess I find it hard to take the path of lesser resistance -- which would be to order the Model B's w/the M2380 horn, but use Dean's crossovers and different midrange and tweeter drivers (and SMAHL HF horn).
Also, was reading your latest posts with interest (especially about those multi-cell horns) over on the PRV/ZXPC horn thread (https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...00ph-midrange-zxpc-18x10-horn.1022611/page-56)
Again, many thanks for asking.
"osted October 12, 2002
The horn discussions are certainly very interesting. I was wondering if anyone has listened to the Selenium horn #HC56-25. I installed one as part of the center speaker (picture enclosed). I did the right-left channel comparison against the 400 and found the Selenium to be more open and spacious IMO which works well in the home theater setup. Just my two cents worth."
I also got sent the 2inch throat by mistake so I can try out the PRV drivers in that version, THE BUYER IS LETTING ME KEEP THEM, so I'm crossing fingers that it works out as I'll have 4 of these horns now with 2 diff throat sizes.
"
Posted October 15, 2002
I have the HC56-50 (2" throat) bi-radial as in the picture with a pair of 305ti drivers running them (huge magnets). Vocals are very good but you have to be very careful with the volume because their dynamics are killer. A gunshot will sound like a gunshot. Not sure how this compares to the HC56-25 with the smaller throat."
IM JUST GLAD THAT NOW i COULD WRAP UP THE TOP CAB QUICKLY NOW THAT i DON'T HAVE TO DEAL WITH A PROPER BAFFLE!!
Posted October 17, 2002
"Al,
I have not yet had the pleasure of hearing your crossovers. With what I read about them you are a master. I called an audio company, told him what I was trying to accomplish and he sent me the parts. For the mid he gave me a (on the positive side)40uf connected to a .3mH followed by an L-pad then to the speaker.Nothing on the negative side. I am not sure what the frying pan sound is but there does not seem to be any crackling or hissing. I have the AK3 crossovers on a pair of built khorns (all of the components were purchased new at the same time, so the horns are the plastic, fiberglass type)I hooked one of the khorns and the center (with the selenium horn) to an Adcom and did the right vs. left. The selenium horn sounded more realistic, seemed to fill the room better. Please feel free to comment and add any suggestions.
Don"
Thanks, that's interesting idea re. the possibility of using the less expensive BB and balsa cabinet material. I'll check into that.
Also, thanks for the pointer to the older Klipsch post -- still good info there and that 2" Selenium horn looks good in that top cabinet. I've thought about the top hat approach w/separate bass cabinet but never quite liked how the boxy split Cornscala examples that pop up most frequently (Google search) tend to look. However, interesting you're using the standard Cornwall dimensions for your bass bins (w/a single 15" woofer?)
Also, thanks for the pointer to the older Klipsch post -- still good info there and that 2" Selenium horn looks good in that top cabinet. I've thought about the top hat approach w/separate bass cabinet but never quite liked how the boxy split Cornscala examples that pop up most frequently (Google search) tend to look. However, interesting you're using the standard Cornwall dimensions for your bass bins (w/a single 15" woofer?)
yep single woofer, idk why this just popped up as it's an older thread.....but figured I'd answer for those that surf through all thepossibilities and info down the road. I also agree in regards to the images youmost likely saw via google. Most of the box 24 x 24in bass bin configs were from the early days and the original Crites dimensions (his universal bass bin for doing comparisons with multiple tweeters and mids, etc). I tried to actually get the cabinet shop to cut mine like that, but for whatever reason they seemed to not understand, so I went with the cornwall 2 bass bin sans cutouts for the horns. It was fortuitous in many ways, as I instantly appreciated having the mid sit an extra 12+ inches higher vs having it all stuffed in one 36 inch tall box. Plus only sticking out 16inches from the wall may not sound like a big difference, but it really does....no matter the size of the room. I may end up selling my 3d Elliptrac horns (with optional k55V adapter) due to personal reasons a la heathcare costs and a potential move on the horizon. It'll be my 1st move since I've owned a horn speaker period, much less 4ft tall cornscalas (I can only imagine the dirty looks, esp if I have to end up in a townhouse.....either way, when that day comes, I'll be moving the speakers in the middle of the night. Otherwise all the Karens will be hitting that noise complaint speed dial button). But yeah I've got elliptrac 400s and might sell my big selenium horns. I figure I might as well just stick with my original zxpc and prv combo, as they will suffice esp since I've lost 30Db of hearing in my right ear and due to inept Drs. thinking I was just being paranoid, will most likely be a permanent situation. on the brightside, I'll probably get a better soundstage sans tweeters at this point and figured I' rather receive some karma by letting an Ak'r buy them and other gear soon, as I prepare to move. The worst thing is that the home has 4 diff kinds of wood eating insects that pest control can't eliminate, making the whole process a huge waste of resources and time (but I learned quite a bit, with the flip side being in a worst case scenario, one can now get a set of basically 2 way heresys with seos waveguide for around $500 thank the lody, cuz I bought my 2 sets of heresy 1s for $100 each in 2020, right before their prices exploded and thus eventually planned on flipping a set of those to "pay"for all my experiments). For anyone embarking upon a cornscala build, in my opinion it's much less of a headache and actually sounds better using super heresys and a fast sub (I have dual speedwoofer 10 subs), wherein I have the zxpc frestanding on top of the heresys (I see that fastlane is working on a free standing elliptrac horn for that very purpose.