• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Crown Power Amp Advise

Another thing to remember is that pro amps have cooling fans. Some are very noisy and need to be modded but some others are virtually silent.
 
The itechs might have one of the greatest peak voltage and peak current capability and can sustain power into low impedances better than lot of lab gruppens but, has very peak roll off from 10khz and onward at very low impedances of 2ohms and below... I forgot link to test but overall the powersoft k20 performed best where the itech was not that far behind.. they think cause it's due to the non bypassable dsp in the amp. I wouldn't splurge on an itech for fullrange use but, if need extreme power output and have 50a circuit available for sub duty for some odd reason then yea, itech be insane choice.
 
If I was looking to spend ~$1000 on a big pro amp I'd probably look for a QSC PL6.0 II.

1150wpc @ 8 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz.
2050wpc @ 4 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz.
3250wpc @ 2 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz.

Comes with a 30A power cord and plug. I believe it has four fans though, dunno of if they're loud or not. Probably, since it's made to work.
 
Bear in mind that's used, and holding on for a decent deal. Wanna buy a used one "right now", probably add another $500, give or take.
 
That 3db difference from 600w 8 ohm to 300 watt 16 ohm can easily be rectified with a +3 SPL higher speaker, like going from an 86 SPL to 89.

Noise floor is an issue with some of the bigger amps (mine included though it has a high SNR) but unless you have a very tiny concrete walled room and sit 4' from the speakers, you probably won't hear any of it.

I wouldn't push a big amp into almost clipping on barely-adequate breakers on loud, sustained music (a movie with varying degrees of loud-quiet-very loud-quiet won't be as taxing) as you WILL get heat at the plug, outlet, wires, etc. It's a dangerous risk. 500w to 900w watt pulled at a 120v outlet is enough to get the socket prongs HOT enough to hurt the back of your hand or lips. It'll also be enough that if you pull the plug and put the back of your hand against the wall outlet, you'll actually feel the heat. Be safe.
 
I wouldn't push a big amp into almost clipping on barely-adequate breakers on loud, sustained music (a movie with varying degrees of loud-quiet-very loud-quiet won't be as taxing) as you WILL get heat at the plug, outlet, wires, etc. It's a dangerous risk. 500w to 900w watt pulled at a 120v outlet is enough to get the socket prongs HOT enough to hurt the back of your hand or lips. It'll also be enough that if you pull the plug and put the back of your hand against the wall outlet, you'll actually feel the heat. Be safe.

This should not be a dangerous situation. Standard 15A and 20A receptacles and plugs are rated for carrying way more than 500-900W. Example 15A x 120V = 1800W and 20A x 120V = 2400W.

If the terminals of a plug or a receptacle are getting that hot, enough to be painful, with such a relatively small load, I'd be immediately suspicious of a defective/worn out (loose fitting) receptacle, plug, or otherwise loose connection. Loose connection causes higher resistance, increasing voltage drop, resulting in more heat.

And, as far as breakers being barely adequate, I suggest examining a trip curve. You'll see what I mean by their ability to safely sustain peaks well beyond their rated capacity.

Folks, this just is not a dangerous/risky situation unless, perhaps, you have old, loose, worn out receptacles. In that case fix the real problem, bad/worn out connections.
 
Last edited:
i did not know of the reference line. Does not seem to bad of a price for the output levels. 700+ stereo @ 8 ohms! You would really have to fork out big cash to get this output from Macintosh or some others. I would think performance is there too since they are made for the studio?
 
I own a Crown MicroTech 2400. I can't tell it apart from my MC2300 when driving subs - at least up to the point at which the MC2300 runs out of gas. The Crown has more than double the power when used at 2 Ohms per channel.

IF I AM NOT MISTAKEN

I am pretty sure those use grounded bridge topology. Patented they say but then it may or may not hold up if it came down to it. They actually float the power transformer secodaries, and use a bridged amp with one side grounded. This of course puts half of the audio on the winding of the transformer so of course each channel needs its own. But there is only one big filter required for each channel.

But get this - the grounded bridge is bridgable ! The output is common to ground so guess what, it can be bridged. so now you have two double bridges ? DAMIFINO.

Every piece of Crown I ever worked on was a serious PITA. And I consider their designs overcomplicated but that is not for me to say. They are not designed to be serviced, but at least they are not designed to break much. Like many other things are.

If yours is the model I worked on a while back, if you need to bridge that you are nucking futs. But that is OK at AK of course.
 
I have not bridged my Micro Tech 1200s, but I have used them as mono blocks in parallel mono. 1300W @ 1 ohm. :)
 
I am pretty sure those use grounded bridge topology. Patented they say but then it may or may not hold up if it came down to it.

The Studio/Macro Reference amps do indeed use grounded bridge, just like the Micro Tech, Macro Tech, and some others in Crown's lineup. The Macro Techs were staples of touring sound for years. Probably are not many amps more rugged/durable/abuse tolerant than those.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom