stratokaster
Mental toss flycoon
Great! It should be useful to others in the future.
Thanks Stratokaster.Great! It should be useful to others in the future.
Hypodermic with 500k cst silicone fluid arrived. Bought on ebay.
Applied through bottom of Cue. Hypodermic steel tip was useful to get fluid beyond lever cam-shaft and near piston.
I couldn't get lever then piston out without damaging. So not ideal access.
Decided not to use a heat gun to warm silicone, to help spread it.
I used a 5/16" diameter hollow punch to cut out a new cover for bottom of Cue. Made from bicycle inner tube. Used silicone sealant sparingly along shallow counterbore, to attach it.
View attachment 2603078
Linn back in operation. Damping looks great. It may slow more with use.
Hope this thread helps next LVX owner with this issue.
View attachment 2603091
Great you got it fixed, without disassembly.Bumping this up. I had the same problem with my linn basik lvx arm but was scared to attempt what the OP did. I ordered some 300k silicone oil and using a syringe, just put some on the shaft of the tonearm lift and continuously brought it up and down til the oil worked itself into the barrel. It was a bit messy and not ideal, but got the job done after a few days. I just let the oil creep down slowly from the shaft into the barrel. There was some gunk left by the excess oil that didn’t sink in. I just cleaned it off with some isopropyl alcohol and so far the arm is working nicely. This may be worth a try as another option to fix the linn’s tonearm lifter. Hope this helps.
If you do disassemble it, photos would be nice!Thought I'd resurrect an old thread to share my experience with this repair in case anyone else comes across it via Google like I did.
Done this past weekend on a Basik LVV but it seems to be the same part.
The bottom seal wouldn't budge for me and I didn't want to risk damaging it so I tried going in through the top which is for sure the intended ingress point. The black ring around the lift piston came off very easily and revealed a retaining ring holding down a washer and the lift spring. Remove those and you can pull out the piston entirely.
I completely spaced on getting photos but I'm thinking I'll have to disassemble it again soon because it's a little too stiff now for such a lightweight arm so I'll have to remove some of the oil. I'll update with photos when I get around to doing so.
So what arm do you have? My LVX doesn't have a spring that I remember. Maybe a Pic of what your working on.removed all traces of silicone form everything apart from piston ,now works well but could do with a higher viscocity silicone oil as it could drop a little slower 300k or 500k perhaps .
I got it now.have an LVV, the spring is below the black plastic removable cover washer , circlip, then washer which holds the spring . Image shows the washer removedView attachment 3200649
My que cylinder looks to be the same.Mine seems to work ok on 200k but ive set it quite high if you have the cueing mech set lower then 300k would work better . Does your arm have the same mech?

How did you remove the small black washer, I raised the cueing lever to take a closer look, to see if I could fill the reservoir from the top ( I have an LVX arm) , and I will use some 350cst silicon fluid that I have, but the small black washer is not removeable, well unless I cut it and prise it out, which does not look like what you have done, there is a small screw above the washer, did you manage to unscrew it, I tried and stopped, as it would not budge and with a fair amount of force as well :-(have an LVV, the spring is below the black plastic removable cover washer , circlip, then washer which holds the spring . Image shows the washer removed
