Time Aligned. That's the word I was looking for earlier. Dahlquist called it Phased Array Mounting. Whatever.
Here are the bits I ordered (total counts):
Qty 2 of Solen 8.2uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor Part # 027-564 (original was 8.5uf)
Qty 6 of Solen 6.2uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor Part # 027-558 (original was 6.0uf and 6.5uf on mine. schematic says they are all 6.0. Whatever.)
Qty 2 of Solen 16uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor Part # 027-578 (original was 16uf. Schematic says 14 to 16uf. So they say Whatever)
Qty 2 of 80uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Crossover Capacitor Part # 027-358 (I've seen people put in film caps here. It's a bypass cap across the woofer. It is not in the signal path. Save your money. Save a lot of money! **Edit** Apparently I am bad at reading schematics. the 80uf is in the audio path the the "mid woofer". I still don't know that I would spend $35 for the solen film capacitor. But if I did then no none will ever have to service these again.).
Qty 2 of Dayton Audio PMPC-0.10 0.10uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor Part # 027-200
I actually ordered: Audyn Cap Plus 0.15uF 1200V Double Layer MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitor Part # 027-127 But that's nuts. This is going to the super tweeter that is a crappy piezo device that generates frequencies that only young dogs can hear. I ended up not installing them in the DQ-10's and I am going to use them as a bypass capacitor on the tweeter when I recap my 4435's. A much better place for them where they might actually do some good. If you believe in bypass caps at all. I'm on the fence on that issue but every studio monitor I own has bypass caps in them. Just saying. 4312's had them. L100's did not. Just saying.
This is what I ended up putting in:
Qty 2 of 667-ECW-F2154JAQ Film Capacitors Film Capacitors 0.15uF 250VDC 5% MPP L/S=10mm (Mouser. Originally ordered for HPM100's but I upgraded to a couple of caps in series to get the value I wanted. Again, going to a super tweeter on the HPM100's that I personally cannot hear anything come out of even with a signal generator).
But to be honest you can just leave the little metallic capacitors in place. They are just fine.
Here is everything I took out:
View attachment 1818010
Interesting that these yellow caps are made in Mexico and they look just like the ones in the 4435's. I wonder.
I ended up removing all of these caps instead of leaving them in place (and disconnected) because the crossover is visible through the back of the speaker. I still do not understand that decision by the manufacturer. I don't think having an open back seriously affects the acoustics. And could they possibly have found a worse material for generating rattles? And letting dust accumulate in places that you can't clean? Were they trying to let audio geeks show off their cool speakers? I have a clear Lucite Bose subwoofer that does it right. Wish I had a set of the clear HPM100's. Came close once but got outbid. Went for $1004.00 as I recall. Nuts.
From my first picture you see that I have the stubby leg model. There is also a model that has a raised mounting base. That's probably better sounding but the stubby legs are way cooler. The raised bases would not have gotten past quality control. I do suggest gluing the stubby legs if they have come loose. They are held in by one central screw and a tiny nail to keep them from rotating. I don't think they were ever glued. Now they are.
Once I got everything screwed, soldered, glued, taped and pushed back in place, I gave them a listen. Something was missing. Yep. A blown fuse on one of the tweeter thingies. It was a strange 2/3 amp value or something like that. I found something close and put it in. But it did not fit solidly. So I tried to bend the fuse holder to make it tighter and some of the metal fell off in my hand. I wonder if that could be the cause of the "bang it to fix it" problem? I'm thinking so. I put a temporary alligator clip in place to hold the fuse and everything was right in the world again.
Something was still missing. OH, Badges. I forgot the badges. There is a guy on EB that remakes badges. He has Dahlquist but they are just printed, not molded like the originals. I wonder if that will affect the sound?
So, how do they sound you ask. Much much better. Even good. They do not have the low end for modern rock music. I love how they handle piano performances. George Winston and such. Dahlquist did make a subwoofer, DQ-1 I believe with a MX-1 crossover. You will probably have better luck finding a ventilator. But I did put it on my bucket list. I switched my receiver from "pure direct" to "straight" which adds in my subwoofers the way I have it configured. Now the DQ-10's sound simply wonderful. Next up: Tannoy System 8. . .or maybe AR3a, all the parts are here for both.
Be safe. Gotta order my Dr. Fauci Bobblehead too.
