T68,
I look at things this way.
Look not for what is broken, but for what is there.
That can be applied to a turntable or to life depending on how Philosophical you want to be.
The Marco,
Yeah I had looked at the value of the platter drive before I met with the guy.
I could tell he was just looking to get cash for his next high. And told him I could take a chance at a hundred.
At that point it still had risks since I did not know if anything would be salvageable beyond the plinth.
Once I got it home and fired it up I found the motor unit does hold speed. It locks in and the strobe indicates no fluctuation.
I then knew I had done as well as hoped.
I considered at one point the idea of splitting it up and making a small killing on the deal.
Plinth approx. 100-200, platter drive 400+, tonearm for parts 150-200'ish, and the Shure V15V probably 150-200ish from what I have seen.
But then what, spend more than that for something that would not compare?
I have done the numbers, when I am done including the Jico SAS-B stylus I will have approx $500 into this project and I will have what I consider to be
a beautiful turntable that should be better than what I would have bought otherwise.


I could definitely feel a slight increase in heft from the V15V.
Hi Terry Mc, if you are still around, thanks for the nice pics on this thread. I am working on DA-401 tonearm that got damaged in shipping (headshell connector broke off the arm tube). Going to have to modify it a bit and rewire, and epoxy.So I have not added for a little while.
The reason is I was hesitating on the next step.
Knowing something is broken and parts are not available is one thing.
Taking a drill and changing and taking that broken part further from original is another thing.
Today at lunch I finally bit the bullet and drilled out the pins for the headshell and the headshell socket.
As I said I have been dragging my feet on this one. One wrong move and I could damage more parts that I cannot replace.
View attachment 2777442
When I drilled out the socket the insert in the socket came out at the last size.
This is good and bad.
The insert was providing support for the carbon fiber tube and formed a stop for it.
The good is it is one less piece of plastic that would just be wedged in there by the tubing.
Now I will have to marka stop on the tubing and make sure it holds alignment when I bond the 2 pieces with epoxy.
View attachment 2777454
This was the hard part as the head shell was 100% intact so it made it hard for me to justify drilling, but in for a penny in for a pound.
View attachment 2777455
View attachment 2777456
So I have a path now for the direct wiring, I am still debating whether to keep the DIN socket on the bottom of the tonearm or delete it and go straight to an RCA junction box.
Here is the tonearm with the Cardas wiring.
View attachment 2777459 View attachment 2777462
View attachment 2777466
So I also measured the Shure V15V coil resistance today also.
one side is 868 and the other 890 ohms. The manual shows 815 typical.
So not sure if these are within spec. and some can be attibuted to calibration staking of instruments.
Side to side is open so that is good.
As you can see the stylus has the cantilever ripped out by the less than bright individual I bought this from (tweeker probably?)
It is a shame since everything else on the Turntable points to that the original owner had probably had a VN5MR stylus in it.
If anyone has input into DC resistive values of the V15V coils please let me know before I spend $$ on Jico SAS stylus.
Tonight I will probably bond the CF tubing to the socket and look at brazing a nut to the pipe so I can create a jam nut for an azimuth adjustment.
to follow up on my own post. It was like someon put a little bit of super glue or thread lock on every screw on this tonearm, or just old grease got real hard. Anyway, I eventually got everything apart, with *only* two stripped screws, which should be replaceable... Will see how the rewire goes, eventually.Hi Terry Mc, if you are still around, thanks for the nice pics on this thread. I am working on DA-401 tonearm that got damaged in shipping (headshell connector broke off the arm tube). Going to have to modify it a bit and rewire, and epoxy.
How did you get the arm tube out of the body of the tone arm? I can’t budge the screws. There are a couple smaller holes on the under side that might have time hex nuts, but can’t really see. Trying not to break it—
Thanks for any suggestions.
g