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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

I'd just add, not being a hardcore DIY plinth person - that those DK plinths from Denon serve well without additional cutting and drilling, assuming the feet are okay: the three holes are ready for mounting the turntable and the only variable is the armboard (if it even comes with one) as those have predrilled holes for the tonearm stem and may not be in the correct location for all arms. In that case, a new armboard needs to be made, which I found mildly challenging with my limited woodworking skills. It's getting it to the right shape - snug fit and correctly rounded corners so that the board can be placed into the recess - that I don't find so easy. But manageable with patience.

The plinths are decent for finishing as they can just be sanded back and then finished as desired. I went with shellac and hand polishing as it's easy to correct mistakes, it's fun and mess-free to do, and if necessary, it can be stripped all the way back and started again. The whole finished version with arm and table mounted looks better to me without a dust cover. I know some people need them, but I prefer without.
 
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I found a DK2300 plinth after much searching for just the plinth alone. It had a pretty beaten up finish, even worse than the DK300 I’m using right now. So I figured I would attempt a re-veneer.

This stuff is the 3M pressure sensitive walnut veneer it seems to stick pretty well and I was able to cut it with a craft knife. I’ve added some grain filler with a bit of wood dye, still got to add a finish.
 
I just realized these bed stabilizers are to keep the headboard from repeatedly banging into the wall :p
They are footers for furniture to reportedly provide height adjustment, anti shock, anti vibration and anti-slip as well as ease of cleaning with increases height. Cheers.

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I'm not surprised. I had the EPA-500, but only with low-mass armtube. Loved it, but frankly the 3009/II/imp suited my high-compli MMs better. Never had the right EPA tube for MC.

Meanwhile, @srs735 has all 3 (#28)!! ENVY!

The Ittok is a cut below the Syrinx. I may try the Odyssey — if it can fit the armboard. If the mounting-hole is big enough, almost any 9" arm can be made to work, with some improv.

Back to your description: "That same ability also has huge side-effects in that it ... allows small details not only to appear but also to flow as an integral part of the music."

That nails it. I'm as much a detail freak as anyone, but all too often it "jumps out", when it should "stay in" the Music.

Hi Bimasta, I'm waiting for a DP80 with 3009 II Improved. I'd like to know what could be the better cartridge to use with. Now I have a Denon DL103 and 103r but i can't use them with that tonearm, i'd like to find a MM in the same range...
 
Hi Bimasta, I'm waiting for a DP80 with 3009 II Improved. I'd like to know what could be the better cartridge to use with. Now I have a Denon DL103 and 103r but i can't use them with that tonearm, i'd like to find a MM in the same range...
Very sad - he passed away few years ago.
 
I received a Denon DP-80 today from Japan, it was supposed to be completely functional but it has a somewhat weird issue that seems to be speed control related and happens both with and without quartz lock engaged.

Both speeds seem a bit jittery, and the motor makes a sort of rattle / knocking sound. There's no weird noises spinning the platter with the power off. The strobo looks mostly ok, but it seems a bit jittery and on the rpm phone app the speed it shows keeps fluctuating about 0.3 rpm. Somehow that doesn't seem to completely show in the W&F it measures, maybe because of weighting, because it still gives readings under 0.10%, which while not acceptable for a DP-80 doesn't seem as bad as it should be. While the phono apps are not really reliable and mine has started showing the speed constantly 0.3rpm too slow even with a turntable running perfect 33.3rpm, the W&F measures seem to still make sense. Both my well functioning Denon DP-3000 and Sony TTS-2500 show 0.03%. I also checked the DP-80 using a strobe disc but it was not as easy to see the small jittering as with the built in strobe, but I think I did saw it jump occasionally.

Here's what it sounds like, this was recorded with my phone under the motor unit as it was running. The sound is not super loud but it's not faint either, it's very clearly audible next to the turntable. Never used jumpshare before but I guess it should be ok...


So here's where it gets a bit weird... if I gently hold my finger against the mat or the edge of the platter to give the system a little bit of drag to fight against, the weird sound stops and the strobe starts looking stable, speed doesn't fluctuate anymore in the app either and it gives a W&F reading of 0.05% which seems quite good actually under those conditions.

It was supposed to be working properly but clearly isn't, which is a bummer but as it is cosmetically in quite nice shape and I was planning to give it a full service anyway I figured it's probably a bad cap or transistor and nothing to worry about... however as I opened it up it became instantly clear someone had been there already, the foam under the motor had been removed and replaced with cushions and then taking a look at the PCBs most transistors and caps had already been changed along with variable resistors VR1 & VR2... luckily the person who did this seems to have marked each replaced component with a little green dot. It seems the notorious 2SC458 have been replaced with 2SC1815 which I think should be fine, most electrolytics seemed quality Nichicons. Work seems generally clean, so maybe I wouldn't be dealing with someone else's hack job, but the bad thing is assuming that, since most transistors and caps have already been changed, the issue might be something more severe... It's possible this was originally worked on because of the speed issues and they didn't manage to repair it changing components.

Things I have tried so far - adjusting the magnetic head, didn't seem to make any difference except when the gap got to about 0.4mm reception started to get spotty and speed would occasionally run away for half a turn or so. I don't have a scope but I have adjusted VR2 to get 45rpm on the variable mode with the speed dial at the middle point, then VR1 to dial in 33rpm. Both pots were smooth in operation, as it should be since they have been already replaced...

Any ideas? I got this through proxy service from Japan, I don't think the auction seller was specializing solely in audio and it wasn't claimed to be "perfect" but they did advertise it as no problems in normal use, which is not the case, so I should have a good case for a claim. The proxy service does have buyer protection for non-junk items and I have 7-days to make up my mind. I could try to troubleshoot this more thoroughly during that time frame but not sure there's much I could do without a scope and I don't think I should bring a solder iron to it if I intend to send it back.

EDIT: found a thread on diyaudio where the problem seems quite similar https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/denon-dp-80-stutters-on-33-but-ok-on-45.414265/ - it seems it was a transistor issue in that case. That I could deal with.
 
Fingers crossed for you muovimies. I hope you get to the bottom of the problem.
 
Cheer up! The DP80 is a fabulous turntable, but it needs a lot of care with its electronics. I had to replace a board, several capacitors, and a few transistors, and now it works perfectly. But what an effort! At one point, I thought I wouldn't make it, but everything turned out fine. Now I'm happy.
 
So it seems this "rattling" issue is fairly common with units suffering from faulty caps / transistors and most cases it seems like people have had good results with a shotgun approach of just replacing all electrolytics and transistors (and diodes in some cases).

The fact that the motor doesn't rattle and speed stability improves when inducing some extra drag could maybe help narrow it down. At least the platter and magnetic head seem to be fine since it's able to function at least very close to as intended under those conditions, but starts acting up when it's allowed to spin freely.

The board layout pictures in the service manual seem to have the pinouts for some transistors reversed, for the ones I spotted the markings on the board seemed correct though, so it's probably only an error in the service manual.

Fingers crossed for you muovimies. I hope you get to the bottom of the problem.

Thanks.
 
So what changes when extra drag is introduced into the equation? I ran some more tests holding my finger against the platter and the speed was very stable, +/- 0.04% correct rpm and W&F of 0.03%. I'm not sure an up to spec drive could do any better battling with the dreaded braking finger. If I knew the DP-80 inside out, that probably would help me quite a bit in narrowing it down. Unfortunately I don't, and I also noticed some of the boards had several ceramic caps added on the solder side, which is not an encouraging sign so maybe it really would be wisest to cut my losses and initiate the return process. It's one thing to deal with an unit which has some age related problems but the potential for misery is incredibly higher if someone has been doing some hack job repairs.
 
Any repairs actually been done there? I can't see it really clearly, but to me it mostly looks like original soldering plus a bit of brown flux residue. Ugly but normal.

If (on that board) you were just needing to replace the electrolytic caps, I counted about 15 on the schematic. Not too many, really.

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Know that there are several of us that own DP80 & DP75 TTs, so thought we should start a thread to share info and resources, pic's, etc.

Am designing a Michell Gyro "style" plinth that will be made from either steel (pretty spendy) or aluminum (less spendy). We'll see where that goes, based on cost. I want to run two TA's, so would need to accommodate my "wants".

Of course, now that I've started this my wife is dragging me away for our 'anniversary lunch'. I'll be back in a few hours and will post a pic or three of mine. Will be some 'before' pic's of the plinth, which is getting a new suit of clothes (veneer). Should have it back in black walnut in early July.
Just bought a Denon DP-80 in pristine condition inside and outside with an ugly DK-200 console which is ment for the DP-6000 & 7000 I believe.
If everything works perfectly, which it does, should I perform a recap anyway, some transistors (no idea yet which one for now) and the VR's?
 

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