Denon PRA-1100 & POA-2200

[PTL-Pioneer]

Assuming these PNP are TR536 and TR538
Yes that is a typo on my part you are correct, readings in post 19 are for TR536 and TR538

I assume you found F8 to be intact
Yes it has continuity, F6 is shot totally. Box of fuses has been ordered so will replace all the 6.3A fuses

Test Upstream in the circuit (this would be to TR528 and TR530)
Both were pulled and test ok in my component tester, can only say they are not shorted
TR528=2sa926
TR528=2sc2238

Pulling TR530, it did not have any thermal paste on it, it is like the "sensing diode" is mounted on a little circuit board, was easily removed, thankfully.

Then go one further step upstream (TR524 and TR526)
Both were pulled and test ok in my component tester, can only say they are not shorted
TR524=2sc3334
TR526=2sa1321

I also pulled the emitter resistors R634, R636 and both test and measure fine (i think), my meter seems to struggle with testing these, both read 0.1ohm (per side if that makes sense) so 0.2 ohm across each in total with the meter and tester is the same also.
I know they are supposed to be 0.36 ohm across each in total so not 100% confident in my previous statement, could it me my meter?

 

[northpaw]

I also pulled the emitter resistors R634, R636 and both test and measure fine (i think), my meter seems to struggle with testing these, both read 0.1ohm (per side if that makes sense) so 0.2 ohm across each in total with the meter and tester is the same also.
I know they are supposed to be 0.36 ohm across each in total so not 100% confident in my previous statement, could it me my meter?

Yes, could be the meter, but the same result on the tester is a bit worrisome. Used to be that most meters would not do a good job with low Ω resistance measurements, but some of the modern but cheap meters now seem to do well (modern fabrication, esp. ICs, does really help).

The simplest thing to do is to measure the corresponding resistors on the left channel, where everything else seems to be intact. Even if your meter and/or tester is off, your measurements on the resistors from both channels should agree. If they don't, and if the left channel ones are more in agreement with the specs, I'd definitely replace the right channel resistors. As a general note, remember that for any measurements you make in the right channel, including in-circuit ones, they can be compared to the corresponding parts in working left channel. A working channel is a great "resource" to have when troubleshooting and tracking down problems.

 

[PTL-Pioneer]

Hi just a report back, i looked around and checked costing of buying parts etc for this amp (bdent, mouser, digikey etc.
It made a bit more financial sense to (to me at least) to buy a used right channel power amp board, which i did, and i recapped and installed that board earlier.
Powered up on DBT everything seems to be working great! Ill do more testing after i get those speaker terminals installed, and ill be able to report back properly on this.
I really need to learn how to select replacement transistors and diodes properly.

Ill update this post again with everything i think i have a bunch of pictures also

 

[PTL-Pioneer]

Yesterday I installed new speaker terminals in this. Bought some anodised black aluminium sheets, 3mm thick, cut to size. I drilled them out and mounted some decent quality banana speaker terminals. They are isolated from the chassis so they were good to use.
I checked continuity across all terminals and chassis before soldering up the wiring to the output board.
Certainly not a really professional job but not too bad either.

 

[northpaw]

Looks great.