DIY Audio rack Any suggestions?

[waggs098]

Hey all hows it going? Hope everyone is doing well. Its been a while since I've been on here. There are lots of talented people her and i have some questions and hoping some can help me out.

I'm building and audio rack out of old pallet wood. I would like to do the top with tabletop epoxy. I have never done it before.

I know I have to have a barrier around the top to hold it in. Maybe use 1x4s with a small amount of foam, to seal gaps, and plastic, so resin doesnt stick, in-between clamped around the top? I want the epoxy just on the top. Any suggestions?

As you can see in the pics its far from an even surface. I know air bubbles can be a big problem. Should I fill with epoxy in steps? Pour into the cracks first and let it set up, then do a final coat that covers the whole top? Or do it in steps but work quick enough no epoxy sets till I'm finished?

I'll do a very light sand just to get rid of some "hairs" sticking up but don't want to change the character of the wood much at all.

I'll throw together some pieces just to practice on first.

Thanks for looking and any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Lavane]

If the pallets were made out if that white oak, that's stuff is hard. I built a bench once using pallet wood. I had to drill holes first, then use screws. I like the look!

 

[waggs098]

If the pallets were made out if that white oak, that's stuff is hard. I built a bench once using pallet wood. I had to drill holes first, then use screws. I like the look!

Hey thanks.

There's all kind of wood from many different pallets. I'm no expert on kinds of wood. The front main frame is from good solid straight 2x4s. I drilled pilot holes to screw the whole frame together. I hate it when something splits. The planks are done with a brad nailer I bought for cheap about 3 years ago. First time I got to use it and I love it.

 

[drjim]

Are you going to put casters on the bottom so it's easy to move?

 

[waggs098]

Are you going to put casters on the bottom so it's easy to move?

Yes I will. Easy to turn and change out equipment or wiring. That is definitely a must.

 

[waggs098]

I have also decided to redo the top side boards so they stick up 3/16 to a 1/4 inch. I'm going to put boards on the front also so the top board on the front would stick up also, then put one on the back. That would create the frame to hold the epoxy.

 

[El Rubio]

I have never used that epoxy you are talking about, but you probably want to pour that in one coat. The product info may help with that. I think you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to smooth out the air bubbles too.

 

[hjames]

Might be nice to brush a coat of stain over it to bring out the grain, before you epoxy coat it.
I'd put something like blue painters tape over the cracks on the Bottom side of the rack top,
else you'll get stalactites as it weeps between the planks.
Maybe brush on the first coat just to fill in the gaps and avoid air bubbles ...

I did a butcher block table years ago with something called Decopour - worked great!

this looks like the current equivalent
https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-8-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B001CEMU3I
It's got to be mixed like all expoxies, but they mention you can do multiple coats.

For edges, you want to use something like Wax paper, so the epoxy doesn't stick to it!

 

[waggs098]

Might be nice to brush a coat of stain over it to bring out the grain, before you epoxy coat it.
I'd put something like blue painters tape over the cracks on the Bottom side of the rack top,
else you'll get stalactites as it weeps between the planks.
Maybe brush on the first coat just to fill in the gaps and avoid air bubbles ...

I did a butcher block table years ago with something called Decopour - worked great!

this looks like the current equivalent
https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-8-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B001CEMU3I
It's got to be mixed like all expoxies, but they mention you can do multiple coats.

For edges, you want to use something like Wax paper, so the epoxy doesn't stick to it!

Yeah ill seal it up on the bottom.

Do you have a suggestion for stain. Bringing out the grain would be good but I don't want to put something on it that could make the boards all the same "color".

 

[gadget73]

wonder if you could rub an oil finish in without it affecting the epoxy. Tung, danish, or boiled linseed oil would all work. Those are all basically clear but it will highlight the grain without tinting the wood to any significant degree. No idea about laying epoxy over that though.

 

[waggs098]

wonder if you could rub an oil finish in without it affecting the epoxy. Tung, danish, or boiled linseed oil would all work. Those are all basically clear but it will highlight the grain without tinting the wood to any significant degree. No idea about laying epoxy over that though.

Been doing some research and it seems water based stains are best. Some oils are ok but require a long drying period to be sure the oils has cured. I read anywhere from 3 days to 10 weeks.

 

[gadget73]

yeah I've never used an oil finish with anything over it, so I could certainly believe long cure times. I've only ever done oil over oil until it either looked good or I got tired of fooling with it, at which point it looked good enough

 

[jimbofish]

Been doing some research and it seems water based stains are best..

Shellac or lacquer would also work, but I'd check the epoxy label to make sure there's no warnings.
FWIW I made a cypress coffee table 30-some years ago with an epoxy pour and the grain shows through just fine.

 

[waggs098]

I

Shellac or lacquer would also work, but I'd check the epoxy label to make sure there's no warnings.
FWIW I made a cypress coffee table 30-some years ago with an epoxy pour and the grain shows through just fine.

I'm not sure what I'm trying to do will work. I want to end up with a smooth finish on top. From what some have said and through a little research it can't be done with just one pour cause it will be to thick to cure properly and cause to much heat. I might ask a couple manufacturers and see if they have suggestions.

One other route I might go is use polyurethane or lacquer. Lots of coats and a little sanding. Then put a piece of clear glass on top and add some small spacers in the corners to hold it off the wood and a frame around the edge to keep it in place.

 

[John James]

If you hold the glass off the wood it will possibly be much easier to break.

My sister, years ago, had a coffee table with a poured top. I have no idea what the product was. It worked extremely well though. In places the material was an inch or more deep.

 

[waggs098]

If you hold the glass off the wood it will possibly be much easier to break.

My sister, years ago, had a coffee table with a poured top. I have no idea what the product was. It worked extremely well though. In places the material was an inch or more deep.

I would definitely use tempered glass. Not sure about the epoxy yet though.

 

[waggs098]

Front trim cut and test fitted. I would like to put a smoked glass door on the front. We will see.

 

[waggs098]

As I look at it I will have to redo the front and cut the corners at a 45. Just bothers me and looks lazy.

 

[Mikehook]

My stereo rack is actually an old train station ticket both that i found in an antique shop for $200! The piece of wood i have across the top that holds my turntable is from a building in Baltimore MD that was torn down but was built in the 1800's . The wood was given to me by a friend who is 81 years old and was an Olympic skier back in the 60's ! i would shop around for a cool piece of furniture you could convert and repurpose . just my opinion but it works for me.

 

[waggs098]

My stereo rack is actually an old train station ticket both that i found in an antique shop for $200! The piece of wood i have across the top that holds my turntable is from a building in Baltimore MD that was torn down but was built in the 1800's . The wood was given to me by a friend who is 81 years old and was an Olympic skier back in the 60's ! i would shop around for a cool piece of furniture you could convert and repurpose . just my opinion but it works for me.

Thats nice.

What I'm building is for rack mount gear though.