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DIY Tonearm Damping?

dodog

Addicted Member
I stumbled upon this article the other day and it got me thinking:

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/bas/0809/

One could easily use some 300,000 cst or 500,000 cst silicone oil with this. Has anyone ever tried this? The nice thing is that it is easy to add/remove to a turntable without any permanent damage. The only question would be what to use for the "trough". Opinions or suggestions?
 
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That article was originally published by The Boston Acoustic Society. It is just a prelude. There is more juicy reading that made me a believer. Find time to read. And do not forget to look at the other great information; these guys were serious about audio!

http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-04-7501b.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-05-7502b.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-06-7503.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-07-7504.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-08-7505.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-09-7506b.pdf
 
Very valid idea but I can't get over the author's initial problems. Why is his cart/stylus jumping around on an AR/SME if it's not a set up issue or cart/arm mismatch? Those records must be mighty warped!
 
That article in BAS is a very good introduction in tonearm damping. A must read really if trying to understand how the tonearm and cartridge work regarding stability.

gusten
 
Very valid idea but I can't get over the author's initial problems. Why is his cart/stylus jumping around on an AR/SME if it's not a set up issue or cart/arm mismatch? Those records must be mighty warped!

That's exactly what I was thinking.

Personally I'd be concerned of the incremental loading the horizontal paddle will subject the suspension & cantilever to when riding the warps.
 
My guess would be that the article was from the 70s, when record company quality control went out the window in favor of high volume production, and a large portion of the records you bought had warps.
Certainly damping is going to apply a force to the arm and cartridge, but think of the alternative -- rather than a restraining of motion, you have unrestrained motion, including jumping off the record and crashing back down on it. That seems more likely to cause trouble with the cartridge, and the entire system, to say nothing of the owner's nerves.
 
Agreed Nat :thmbsp:
That's even worse.
I just wanted to point out that there are risks with the damping method.
Personally I just replace any record with a warp bad enough to induce skipping.
 
I like that sketch. For the SL-1200 you could use a long nylon screw and thread it into the aux weight threads at the back of the arm. Then build the paddle down from the end of the screw head. With some nylon nuts you could easily secure a paddle to the screw.

Too bad I already have the KAB damper.... which works great btw.
 
Agreed Nat :thmbsp:
That's even worse.
I just wanted to point out that there are risks with the damping method.
Personally I just replace any record with a warp bad enough to induce skipping.

anybody notice that SME came out with fluid damping soon after the BAS articles were written. :scratch2:

I'll be adding a damping system to my XA soon. That's been in the works for some time now. It will simply clip onto the armtube and the tub will clip to the arm pillar and rotate with the arm. No need for horizontal damping, as the AR XA arm has that.
 
As the owner of an ADC 10E Mk IV and a Sonus or two, yes, there's a problem, and you could call it a setup problem, but building the homemade damper described by Bob Graham allowed me to use the ADC cart in the arm of my Technics SL-1500 without all the jiggling and wobbling-- even on visually flat LPs!-- described by Graham. Woofer cones don't lie. And no, there was no downside. Lower stylus wear, less wasted amplifier power, less record wear, stable soundstage. Undamped high-compliance cartridges are great for breaking in woofer suspensions, though!

Heavy arms aren't the only candidates for damping. Consider that one of the lightest conventional tonearms ever made, the SME Series III, included a viscous damper either standard or as an option, and the case for damping looks stronger. But that was a commercial product, where the experimentation had already been done, and the damping was user-adjustable. If there are risks involved with damping, we should say that they are almost entirely with DIY damping, since it's conceivable that someone could overdamp an arm, not know the warning signs, and leave it that way.

These days, with cartridge compliance low and the ability to cherry-pick the lightest arms on the turntables we buy, it's not the problem it once was. But any time there's a mass on the end of a spring, some motion control is called for. Think about how well your car would stay under control without its shocks/dampers, especially if, like me, you drive like a hair-on-fire maniac. That's pretty much the life of a tonearm. Just as no roads are perfectly flat, neither are there any perfectly flat LPs, despite strident claims to the contrary.

I like my Shure Dynamic Stabilizer cartridges, but the brush does make some noise, and the advantage of a viscous damper is absolutely no added "brush talk", which is good, keeping in mind that an unclamped LP is basically a plate reverb.
 
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That article was originally published by The Boston Acoustic Society. It is just a prelude. There is more juicy reading that made me a believer. Find time to read. And do not forget to look at the other great information; these guys were serious about audio!

http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-04-7501b.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-05-7502b.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-06-7503.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-07-7504.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-08-7505.pdf
http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-09-7506b.pdf

Thanks for those links. Very interesting reads. Well, when I'm not feeling too lazy, I think I might cobble one of these together and try it out (on "unwarped" records). If I don't like it or feel that it's harming my cart, I'll just pitch it in the trash.
 
anybody notice that SME came out with fluid damping soon after the BAS articles were written. :scratch2:

I'll be adding a damping system to my XA soon. That's been in the works for some time now. It will simply clip onto the armtube and the tub will clip to the arm pillar and rotate with the arm. No need for horizontal damping, as the AR XA arm has that.



:scratch2:




.
 
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It is important not using too much damping. But the problem is that normally tonearm damping is too small, and at resonance frequency, this will show in a rather increased output, and indirectly as an increase in distortion.
This will happen even if there are no visible warps, the records contain enough low frequences for this to always happen. A fluid damper, correctly applied, is really cleaning up the sound, by lowering distortions caused by tonearm vibrations.
gusten
 
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Agreed.
You can form a temporary trough from clay.
You can form a paddle from stiff solid hookup wire by simply bending the end into a spiral, trimming it to size as needed.
If your arm has high friction, as my old AR arm did, you may not need to damp. The need for damping goes up as arm bearing friction goes down.
 
anybody notice that SME came out with fluid damping soon after the BAS articles were written. :scratch2:

At the time SME was working closely with Shure.... Shure came out with the V15III which was very high compliance, and the SME arms had trouble with it.

This led to two research projects - Shure developed their damper brush, and SME came out with the fluid damper.

I think the BAS articles reflect what was happening at the time - this is the period when a lot of the damped unipivots started to be developed, also the Japs would shortly thereafter come out with their electronic servo damped arms...

All of them designed to facilitate high compliance cartridges.
 
:scratch2:




.

To answer your edited question ( :thmbsp: ) The damping would be to control the amplitude the arm/cart sees at the fundamental resonate. In my case with several different carts in play on this particular XA, it comes in right at 10hz according to my Shure ERA lV test album. That excitation in the XA arm is pretty much only in the vertical as the arm pillar sits in an oil bath the lateral ecitation is damped. Some of the carts exhibit a pretty high level of amplitude, others do not.
 
SME damping as applied to the Series 300, IV and V arms only damps the lateral movement and not the vertical, so has no effect on a warped record. I don't understand why they dropped the vertical damping (any ideas?) but I can testify to the lateral only damping applied to my 312s having great effect on some of my carts such as the benz Glider and Transfiguration Aria. You have to get the amount of damping just right or things start to sound very off though.

When I used an SME 3002/ III a while back I found that applying damping was a necessity for ALL my carts. Mind you a totally different arm to any other SME I have owned.
 
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