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Do I need a different preamp

TubesGlo said:
I don't think experimenting with cables as EQ's will yield dramatic results. I made interconnects with Mogami cable for neutrality. My Crites B type similar to Cornwalls are more sensitive to placement. Getting the toe in right yields noticeable results. Room treatments and corner placement also critical. I have two amps I rotate in my system. First a restored Dynaco ST-70. Mids and highs are lush with good strong bass response. My SS amp is a restored Hafler DH-220 with Musical Concepts driver boards. With that amp the mids and highs are very close to the tube amp due to the MOSFET outputs, a very sweet sound. The bass response is tighter and has a bit more defined impact. Neither of these amps operate out of class A due to the 100db sensitivity of the speakers. A Cornwall 15" woofer with a ported enclosure isn't going to deliver perfectly tight and well defined bass but the right amp with good damping factor will help control that driver the best it can be. I would optimize my system bi-amping with tubes on top and the SS driving the woofers. I don't have an electronic crossover to effectively accomplish this but both amps do such a good job on their own I haven't bothered going that route.
Dial in your speaker placement, in the corners toed in and close to the front wall. Your Pass amp isn't ideal for these speakers. You also don't need flea watt tube power, just the right power. If solid state, consider a MOSFET based amp which will provide smooth high frequency response with your horns and tight bass. A restored Hafler 220 is a great amp that can be had with little investment. B&K, Adcom both also fet designs.
Click to expand...

Bi-ampimg is a simple solution, that can be done without any investment .. simply tap in to the existing crossover ..
For some reason everyone seems to think that an electronic crossover is a necessity for bi-amping and it isn't .. the speaker already has a crossover ..

For me it's the only solution, since I need tight, well defined bass and most tube amps have a loose, tubby bass response.. but are beautiful in the midrange and treble.
Bi-amp .. tubes on top, Solid State on the bottom ..
 
Akustic said:
Bi-ampimg is a simple solution, that can be done without any investment .. simply tap in to the existing crossover ..
For some reason everyone seems to think that an electronic crossover is a necessity for bi-amping and it isn't .. the speaker already has a crossover ..

For me it's the only solution, since I need tight, well defined bass and most tube amps have a loose, tubby bass response.. but are beautiful in the midrange and treble.
Bi-amp .. tubes on top, Solid State on the bottom ..
Click to expand...
I agree for the most part but I don't believe sending the amps full bandwidth to the high side of the passive crossover is the best way to go. I've tried it temporarily knowing I wouldn't leave it that way long term. My networks are set up for bi-amping but even still I'm running bi-wired only. I don't like the idea of passing the signal through another component like an active crossover but it is the best method and you can level match the amps.
 
All right, I should have said sound wave, no sine wave. similar characteristics, but not the same. Sound waves have a pressure ridge (called the earth) and a lesser pressure ridge, called the sky. The source of the "soundwave" is also thrown into the mix. An asymmetrical wave is natural.
 
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