• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Don't plug your subwoofer into a cheap power strip or surge protector

topdownsound

topdownsound

Active Member
I recently got a Klipsch RP-1400SW sub. Reading what I could about it, I found that Klipsch does not recommend plugging the sub into a surge protector.

This made absolutely no sense to me so I called them and found that:

1) This is a blanket statement, not a specific recommendation.

2) This is done to limit support questions.

3) The issue involves people hooking up some cheap piece of trash surge protector and when it fails, the sub won't power up. They call Klipsch, Klipsch tells them to plug it into the wall, and voila! Their sub is back working. So they just recommend people just plug them into the wall in the first place.

4) The support tech said that a good quality surge protector is never a bad idea and absolutely essential in areas of spotty power outages or older homes with window AC or other transients that can spike the power.

5) Just be sure that the total draw on the surge protector is less than the max draw of the stuff plugged into it. My sub can pull 1000w during an explosion on screen, but my surge protector can handle 1875w, so no problems.

6) The tech mentioned some surge protectors that I consider less than worthy. Stick to Belkin, APC, Eaton/Tripp Lite. I require a clamping voltage of 330V and over 3000 joules on my Type 3 SPD (receptacle devices). I'm less concerned about joules than I am clamping. I also have a whole house SPD Type 2 which only allows 600V in the first place as let-through. Stay away from the Type 3 that are 500V or 600V and read the tech specs for UL 1449, not some European or Chinese cert.

And as always, let's be careful out there.

This message for documentary purposes, in case someone is googling the topic. Just want to give back to this site for all it has helped me by helping the next person even if it is in a small way like surge protection.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
The title is somewhat misleading if you are wanting it to show up in web searches. Might edit the title to say Don’t Plug Your Sub Into a Cheap Power Strip or Surge Protector. Just a thought.
 
Good thought but I can't figure out how to do that. The title comes from the title of the support topic on the Klipsch site, so I was probably being too cute by half to just replicate it here.
 
One thing to consider- is to make sure that whatever surge protector you get, does NOT limit current to an amplifier- whether it be a receiver, integrated amp, powered subwoofer, or anything else with an amplifier inside.

Current limiting will, at its best, limit dynamic range- and at the worst- can cause amp power supply failure. Especially switching power supplies, which will keep "turning themselves up" trying to make power into the reduced voltage, in some cases. Many an amp has been damaged in such a scenario...

Current-limiting is usually fine for source components, that are a relatively steady-state, light current load- but never for anything that draws considerable, and/or varying, current.

That said- they're not cheap- but the Audioquest Powerquest units will usually work fine with amps. They do not limit current, and are in fact specifically rated for use with amplifiers.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
GordonW said:
One thing to consider- is to make sure that whatever surge protector you get, does NOT limit current to an amplifier- whether it be a receiver, integrated amp, powered subwoofer, or anything else with an amplifier inside.

Current limiting will, at its best, limit dynamic range- and at the worst- can cause amp power supply failure. Especially switching power supplies, which will keep "turning themselves up" trying to make power into the reduced voltage, in some cases. Many an amp has been damaged in such a scenario...

Current-limiting is usually fine for source components, that are a relatively steady-state, light current load- but never for anything that draws considerable, and/or varying, current.

That said- they're not cheap- but the Audioquest Powerquest units will usually work fine with amps. They do not limit current, and are in fact specifically rated for use with amplifiers.

Regards,
Gordon.
Click to expand...
I looked this up and from what I can tell, I think you are referring to power conditioners in the sense of correcting for power sags and overages. I've read that many of these do their jobs by limiting current and thereby decrease the headroom but can kill the amp. This appears also to be a function of the class/type of the amp and the quality of the power supply. Some amps by design seem to be more vulnerable to this than others. And a "properly designed" amp won't need any sort of power conditioning. Its power supply does whatever it needs to do by filtering the input.

It is anyone's guess if a given amp is "properly designed". That statement came from a McIntosh salesman, so guess what he thinks about his brand's design?

As I understand it, a Type 3 SPD is entirely passive in operation until a transient spike is detected, so there is no ongoing operation by the unit, unlike a power conditioner. So from what I've read, your post is more about power conditioners than surge protectors.
 
Last edited:
topdownsound said:
I looked this up and from what I can tell, I think you are referring to power conditioners in the sense of correcting for power sags and overages. I've read that many of these do their jobs by limiting current and thereby decrease the headroom but can kill the amp. This appears also to be a function of the class/type of the amp and the quality of the power supply. Some amps by design seem to be more vulnerable to this than others. And a "properly designed" amp won't need any sort of power conditioning. Its power supply does whatever it needs to do by filtering the input.

It is anyone's guess if a given amp is "properly designed". That statement came from a McIntosh salesman, so guess what he thinks about his brand's design?

As I understand it, a Type 3 SPD is entirely passive in operation until a transient spike is detected, so there is no ongoing operation by the unit, unlike a power conditioner. So from what I've read, your post is more about power conditioners than surge protectors.
Click to expand...

Well, it depends on how the unit determines what is a "spike".

A large musical transient can cause a current draw "spike" from the mains. Some power conditioners will react by limiting...

This is usually only true, though, for conditioners that use series components with the signal. Parallel devices (such as "crowbar" circuits- MOV's and such) usually won't effect current.

And yes, a properly designed amp usually doesn't need a conditioner. If it's not filtering the power enough to where a conditioner isn't doing anything- then it's not got good enough filtering itself- and the solution, ultimately, is a better amp...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
GordonW said:
One thing to consider- is to make sure that whatever surge protector you get, does NOT limit current to an amplifier- whether it be a receiver, integrated amp, powered subwoofer, or anything else with an amplifier inside.

Current limiting will, at its best, limit dynamic range- and at the worst- can cause amp power supply failure. Especially switching power supplies, which will keep "turning themselves up" trying to make power into the reduced voltage, in some cases. Many an amp has been damaged in such a scenario...

Current-limiting is usually fine for source components, that are a relatively steady-state, light current load- but never for anything that draws considerable, and/or varying, current.

That said- they're not cheap- but the Audioquest Powerquest units will usually work fine with amps. They do not limit current, and are in fact specifically rated for use with amplifiers.

Regards,
Gordon.
Click to expand...
Not related to audio I recently bought a new table saw. It draws more current than my earlier saw. I saw several reviews where the motor failed prematurely. The reason was due to using this saw an a 15 amp circuit.
Breakers popping was also mentioned along with run capacitor failure.
I had a dedicated 20 amp circuit installed for the new saw.
The capacitor failed last summer in my AC unit outside. The repair man said it was due to these and other brand units only install the one cap at the factory when a second one installed cures this failure, so I had him do it.
Current draw is something that should be kept in mind with anything you plug into a circuit.
I tried one of those WiFi power strips for my tube amps. The thing glitched and turned on 4 amps at once when I had selected one. It fried the strip instantly and wouldn't turn off. I had to yank the cord out of the wall.
I bought a new rather large power block that can handle a whole ot more current. Since all my tube power amps have the power switch either on the back, or on the cord, I now have them plugged into remote controled Bluetooth sockets that are now plugged into that huge strip. I've had zero problems now since I've used this setup.
 
Lavane said:
I bought a new rather large power block that can handle a whole ot more current. Since all my tube power amps have the power switch either on the back, or on the cord, I now have them plugged into remote controled Bluetooth sockets that are now plugged into that huge strip. I've had zero problems now since I've used this setup.
Click to expand...
A tech once told me a good unit should have adequate reserve and filtering built in for the amp's needs. The amp itself may be lacking if you need elaborate external filtering and reserve.

I put ultra-isolation units on my computers and TVs — as they can introduce hash and noise into your house's line. I can hear the difference using headphones on my phono setup. Really! :)

Lightning protection and power failure backup are other matters. An appropriate UPS can save you $$$.
 
Lavane said:
Not related to audio I recently bought a new table saw. It draws more current than my earlier saw. I saw several reviews where the motor failed prematurely. The reason was due to using this saw an a 15 amp circuit.
Breakers popping was also mentioned along with run capacitor failure.
I had a dedicated 20 amp circuit installed for the new saw.
Click to expand...
Respectfully, 15A vs 20A breaker at fault sounds like a hocus pocus diagnosis to me.

Capacitor failure as a contributor to motor failure I could buy. Not because of the breaker size but rather just because of bad cap failing prematurely.
 
whoaru99 said:

Respectfully, 15A vs 20A breaker at fault sounds like a hocus pocus diagnosis to me.

Capacitor failure as a contributor to motor failure I could buy. Not because of the breaker size but rather just because of bad cap failing prematurely.
Click to expand...
True, but I didn't want to have the breaker kicking out with the bigger motor in this saw. A better starter cap is a good idea. Recently the motor on my heater blower was slowing and having a harder time starting. The old cap was way out of spec, and the motor wasn't in great shape either. The new cap got the motor going better, but I had it replaced as well since the bearing had leaked most of the oil out of it and it wouldn't be long before that was an issue.
 
Lavane said:
Yup. I keep several extention cords around. 12ga, 14ga, and 16ga.
People don't always think about the gage of the wire when buying extention cords, especially the long ones.
Click to expand...
I like heavy-duty exterior extension cords, even for indoor use. They are less likely to get damaged from a shut door and footsteps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom