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Dual 1009 cuing rate question?

JohnMac

JohnMac

Addicted Member
Howdy folks,

I've gone thru this table and have just one remaining issue.

When releasing the cuing lever the tone arm drops painfully slow. My 1019 drops fairly slowly too but this one is way too slow.

I see a disc that the cuing lever is attached to. It appears to have some damping fluid in it. I think that I should clean it out and apply new fluid but I'm not sure what to use. I have some 300,000 cts fluid that I have used on a BIC. does anyone know what is recommended?

Thanks in advance!

John
 
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Thanks. That is for the 12XX series and doesn't show the part in question but I would assume it would use the same product. It calls for 500,000 cst fluid. Mine is 300,000 but would probably work???
 
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It's Thanksgiving day and we're having company so I shouldn't be working on TTs but...

I removed the cuing mechanism, cleaned off the old damping material and applied some 300,000 cst fluid. It seemed a little stiff so before installing it I wiped off all but a thin film. That did the trick. Nice slow decent. As long as it's not too slow to make decent contact before the stylus gets out of the lead-in groove it should be fine.

It looks like over a long period of non use the old fluid settled on the lower part of the disc causing it to be too thick in that area.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL!

John
 
Actually the 300,000 cst fluid just doesn't seem to work. Still way too slow or won't lower at all. I cleaned it off and applied a very tiny amount between only two of the surfaces and still to sticky.

Does anyone know if that is actually the right fluid to use.
 

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I looked at a service manual on vinylengine and the product to use is silicone grease, not a heavy cst damping fluid. I looked at the auto parts stores and could find only lithium grease. Anyone know if that would do the job ot should i order silicone?

J
 
It is still silicone damping fluid you need though. Not grease.

If you put grease on there, it will drop as if there is no control at all. Damping fluid acts as a sort of brake. You just need a lower viscosity.

Doug
 
I ended up using a product called silicone plumbers grease. It's much more like the damping fluid I've used than a grease. Clear and very stiff. It's probably the same stuff but less viscous. It works but I had to use just the right amount or it dropped too slow or not at all. Unlike other damping systems, this employs two metal discs that all but contact each other.

I had considered getting a lower viscosity damping fluid from the hobby shop but's it's pretty pricey could get expensive experimenting. It would be nice to find out exactly what cst to use.

John
 
OK.

You know, the arm on my 1019 drops pretty slow when cued too. It takes a good 9-10 seconds to reach the record.

Doug
 
That's pretty slow Doug. I have a 1019 too that's a daily user. It drops pretty slowly too but not that slow. When I went through it I didn't do anything to the damping control.

The 1009 is working OK now so I'll call it good and keep an eye on it. Probably drops in 4-5 seconds.

Thanks!

John
 
I'm working on this problem too, on a 1019.

Symptom: Too slow when manually cueing down.

I took apart the washer box. I soaked the assembly in kerosene for a few hours to loosen the gummed-up grease on the control cam axle. I expected the silicone to be unaffected - it's inert, right? - but it dissolved too.

Then I put in new gunk. I used 100,000 RC differential fluid. Reassembled, and... exactly as before!

It occurred to me that the nut that squeezes the washers together affects the rate. I loosened it some, and things are going faster now. I should probably add some fluid to replace what I squeezed out when I originally ran the nut down tight. Then I need to observe it for a while to make sure it stays consistent.

Dave

It's a shame they didn't damp automatic lowering, but the design doesn't provide for it easily.
 
You have to get just the right amount of goop on those washers. It's quite critical. Too much and the arm takes forever to lower and too little and it drops like a rock. I just put the goop on one plate, sparingly. Sometimes I'll have to redo it 3 or 4 times before I get it just right--adding a teeny bit or scraping some off. Fortunately, it is easy to do.
Rick
 
gridleakrick said:
You have to get just the right amount of goop on those washers. It's quite critical. Too much and the arm takes forever to lower and too little and it drops like a rock. I just put the goop on one plate, sparingly. Sometimes I'll have to redo it 3 or 4 times before I get it just right--adding a teeny bit or scraping some off. Fortunately, it is easy to do.
Rick
Click to expand...

That seems to be the key.

Dave, I don't think loosening the nut is the way to control the rate. It should be snug.

This thread is two years old. The table I was working on went to a friend. I just got it back to deal with another issue. I checked the cueing rate and it still works fine. It takes 7-8 seconds to drop.

This is the product that I used. Got it at Home Depot. I think it is the same as the other damping fluids but doesn't mention its viscosity.

But again, I believe it is the amount used that is critical.

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