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Dual 1019 - aesthetic restoration questions

beatcomber

beatcomber

AK Member
Hello all -

I've decided to make my 1019's appearance better match its performance, and have some questions, please.

1.) PLATTER: Any recommended procedures/products for blackening the black plastic (rubber?) sections of the platter? Mine is looking slightly grey and faded, and I would like to make it look fresher. Soap and water did not help.

I've considered some vinyl restoration stuff like the kind auto supply stores sell, but am concerned about it possibly transferring to the records. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

2.) BASE: I've read that wood rejuvenating oil works wonders, but one of my 1019s has a unique problem. A million years ago, someone rubber cemented a dustbug base to the top of the United Audio base. The cement has dried out enough that I was able to pull off the dustbug base, but there remains a circular glob of clear glue on the top of the UA base. Any way to clear it off? Will it need to be sanded down and completely refinished?

(This photo was taken right after I acquired the 1019 - it was still very dusty!)
1019-c.jpg


Thanks!
 
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You have to sand the glue, using the correct grades of paper, AND ONLY WITH THE GRAIN.

I would make a replacement mat to damp out platter ring. Look for my post on the two-layer mat that resides on my 1219 and 1229Q.
 
You can try mineral spirits, alcohol, and acetone.
But you'll probably still have some sort of discoloration.
Why don't you get another dust bug? :D
 
Get a selection-pack of medium-to-fine papers.
The idea is to start with a grade that is not so coarse as to make lines in the veneer.
Then move to the finer grades, until the glue is removed and the finish is smooth. Do not concentrate on just the glue. Move across the entire area, or you will remove or indent the veneer.
I am also thinking that some turpentine on either a rag or furniture-grade steel wool might work on the glue.

The other poster is from Brooklyn?
 
mdelrossi said:
You can try mineral spirits, alcohol, and acetone.
But you'll probably still have some sort of discoloration.
Why don't you get another dust bug? :D
Click to expand...

Heh heh, the previous owner slopped way too much glue under the dust bug to cover it with another one. I guess that sanding/refinishing is my only viable option.
 
That pic does show my 2-piece mat, but I have a thread some place that shows and describes the layers [and platter damping]. About five pictures.
 
Rubber Cement thinner is mostly naptha - aka lighter fluid. You can find either at your local hardware store. Rub that off with some lighter fluid and paper towel, or if stubborn use #0000 steel wool. It will not sand the wood, which you don't want to do. You want to not get to the scratching stage of abrassive. Then wipe down the wood with naptha to clean it, and a light coat of Tung oil and she will rock. Check with the speaker guys - the base is essentially the same construction and finishing process.

I use Jubilee Kitchen wax on my decks and platters - they haven't made it in 20 years. But when you go scouring garage and estate sales for turntables and records, you realize you are shopping where people never threw stuff out anyway, so you find it a lot. It is still made by Fuller Brush under their generic name. Good stuff, no residue after you wipe it down.
http://www.amazon.com/Fuller-Brush-Appliance-Cleaner-Wax/dp/B003NXPIDA
I love this stuff.

Good luck.
 
eb2jim said:
Rubber Cement thinner is mostly naptha - aka lighter fluid. You can find either at your local hardware store. Rub that off with some lighter fluid and paper towel, or if stubborn use #0000 steel wool. It will not sand the wood, which you don't want to do. You want to not get to the scratching stage of abrassive. Then wipe down the wood with naptha to clean it, and a light coat of Tung oil and she will rock. Check with the speaker guys - the base is essentially the same construction and finishing process.

I use Jubilee Kitchen wax on my decks and platters - they haven't made it in 20 years. But when you go scouring garage and estate sales for turntables and records, you realize you are shopping where people never threw stuff out anyway, so you find it a lot. It is still made by Fuller Brush under their generic name. Good stuff, no residue after you wipe it down.
http://www.amazon.com/Fuller-Brush-Appliance-Cleaner-Wax/dp/B003NXPIDA
I love this stuff.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Fantastic info, thanks!

So, am I correct that naptha will break down the glue and not discolor the wood?
 
Rule of thumb if you arent sure about anything , try a little in a spot that you cant normally see to make sure, but naptha is normally pretty unobtrusive that way.
 
I use Jubilee Kitchen wax on my decks and platters - they haven't made it in 20 years. But when you go scouring garage and estate sales for turntables and records, you realize you are shopping where people never threw stuff out anyway, so you find it a lot. It is still made by Fuller Brush under their generic name. Good stuff, no residue after you wipe it down.
Click to expand...
Google it it has a large following also J&J who used to make it had this to say link
http://www.scjohnson.com/en/product...x?title=From-Bonnie-about-Jubilee-Kitchen-Wax
I remember it it was good stuff .
 
If you can completely scrape off the glue with, say, a putty knife, you could try Howard's Restor-A-Finish on the base. It's good at evening out finishes without having to completely redo them.

It's kind of the latest thing being used on old speaker cabinets.

Doug
 
I would try GooBeGone first to try and remove the glue. It mite take a little time but I think it would be better than any other petroleum solvents that would loosen the glue under the wood vaneer....
 
Doug G. said:
If you can completely scrape off the glue with, say, a putty knife, you could try Howard's Restor-A-Finish on the base. It's good at evening out finishes without having to completely redo them.

It's kind of the latest thing being used on old speaker cabinets.

Doug
Click to expand...

I just did some reading about this product, and it appears to be just the ticket once I get the glue off. :thmbsp:
 
Unless they used superglue to adhere the dustbug, I would not use anything abrasive like steel wool or sandpaper- NO!! Mineral spirits should work fine.
 
hatrack71 said:
Unless they used superglue to adhere the dustbug, I would not use anything abrasive like steel wool or sandpaper- NO!! Mineral spirits should work fine.
Click to expand...

I'm not really sure what the adhesive is... it's dried clear and seem pretty strong. I'll start with the dissolvants and work my way to sanding if necessary.
 
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