Dual 1019 question

[Patrice B]

You're right, forgot that it could be a cycling problem, thanks JFRACE! Maybe the arm bearings are ok... It's Klaus that did the work on mine BTW!

 

[DCH]

It will need to be adjusted and cleaned extensively. You'll need to get at least a 90% isopropyl alcohol, a bunch of q-tips or similar type of cleaner, and a good grease and light oil for it.

The cam is one of the main culprits with these tables and underneath the cam is an almost spring type metal that helps with cycling. I'd unplug the table, plug it in, and try to cycle the table again, or manually try to do it unplugged. There may have been damage in shipping with the bearing and bracket as well. But it looks like a cycling issue to me. Although I am not a professional. You could also try spraying deoxit in the arm and under the arm to see if maybe there is something caked up causing it to stick. And for what you paid on the table, I would ask for shipping plus $75.00 back. Then it would be worth redoing it through a tech.

On 1 of the 1019's I redid, I had a similar issue and was ready to destroy the table due to anger, but read more and got help from vinylengine and Klaus. Little by little I got it back up and running. At one point the issue was similar to yours, it would pick up then drop back down and shut off. That's a cycling issue. I use Alvania grease on mine with light sewing machine oil, but others use different greases.

Could you move the arm manually when it was having this cycling issue?

 

[Patrice B]

Thinking out loud but isn't the cam in neutral position usually, so not interfering with arm movement? Could you check under to be sure that the muting finders are resting in their slot on the yellow cam. If yes, the cam is in neutral position and if I'm not mistaken, it shouldn't interfere with the arm?

**Looking at your underskirt pics, not sure the cam is in neutral position. You could, with the TT unplugged, gently rotate the cam (put the speed lever between two positions to retract the idler wheel) until it is "clicked" at neutral. Then, try again to move the tonearm by hand and report back.

 

[91r100gs]

Have you tried running it through a auto cycle with the tone arm locked down. It sometimes rids the evil spirits. Its worth a try. This can sometimes reset the auto mechanism. YMMV

 

[DCH]

Have you tried running it through a auto cycle with the tone arm locked down. It sometimes rids the evil spirits. Its worth a try. This can sometimes reset the auto mechanism. YMMV

Yeah, a couple of times. I'll try it a couple more times.

 

[DCH]

Here's the mechanism as it tries to auto-cycle.

 

[DCH]

Thinking out loud but isn't the cam in neutral position usually, so not interfering with arm movement? Could you check under to be sure that the muting finders are resting in their slot on the yellow cam. If yes, the cam is in neutral position and if I'm not mistaken, it shouldn't interfere with the arm?

**Looking at your underskirt pics, not sure the cam is in neutral position. You could, with the TT unplugged, gently rotate the cam (put the speed lever between two positions to retract the idler wheel) until it is "clicked" at neutral. Then, try again to move the tonearm by hand and report back.

Stupid question but where is neutral for the cam?

 

[NoTransistors]

Let's see. Hmmm. Shipping a Dual with the manhole cover still installed. Could it have done damage? **** yes.
Take a look at the clutch tip when the gear is parked. Is the control arm touching it? It is either this or the arm bearings got damaged.. The clutch assembly can bind from dried grease, and easily comes out after removing first the cue link lever, then the control arm. Just move the copper retaining tab. Do not lose the biasing spring. Easy-peasie.

 

[Patrice B]

Stupid question but where is neutral for the cam?

The cam is probably in neutral at the end of your latest video. To be sure, the two muting fingers should be in a slot on the yellow cam. Viewing from top, platter removed, the teeth should be on each side of the main bearing.