illinoisteve
Super Member
Does the resistance seem springy?
Dual 1219 Project
- Thread starter chicks
- Start date
Does the resistance seem springy?
Westy56
A symphony of paradox
Can you set up the table to see what's going on when the auto switch is engaged?
My hard grease Garrards were easy to clean and lube once I recognized the parts that moved.
Steve
chicks
Lunatic Member
Yep, got it from djnagle. Hope to be going through the Dual on the weekend, if the garage doesn't get too hot.
Kyluckyman
Well-Known Member
I'd have jumped all over that deal in less than a NY minute!
Westy56
A symphony of paradox
I found out it had no base or dust cover, just the table. It didn't sell.
I offered 25 just wanting the heavy (wow) platter and m75e cart.
Steve
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Westy56
A symphony of paradox
Send me the rest of the stuff you don't want
They didn't want to go that low, so I walked empty handed.
I asked why a cartridge is installed on a NOS table. :scratch2:
That platter may be as heavy, or heavier than my Lenco.
Steve
chicks
Lunatic Member
So, I asked this in my 1019 thread, and I'll ask it here. Which to keep? The 1019 is 100% functional, with the exception of the auto-drop spindle, in like-new condition. The 1219 works manually, but the auto-play is non-functional. The 1219's cabinet is gorgeous (or will be when finished), the 1019's "bubble" is funky, and the base will look great with a bit of Howard's.
Is the 1219 a better table?
Is the 1219 a better table?
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NoTransistors
Dual Turntables Super-Restorer
The 1019 really is a wonderful table, but...
Its headshell has way more contact issues than that on a 1219.
Its motor is quiet, but still a few db louder than that on a 1219. Every db makes a difference when we are dealing with the low 60s. Also, the motor is not as stable as that on a 1219.
Its arm is much heavier than that on a 1219. Shorter too.
Platter is heavy, but smaller than the desired 12".
Your 1019 looks like new. That can be a problem when making the decision.
Keep both, unless money is really a factor.
Its headshell has way more contact issues than that on a 1219.
Its motor is quiet, but still a few db louder than that on a 1219. Every db makes a difference when we are dealing with the low 60s. Also, the motor is not as stable as that on a 1219.
Its arm is much heavier than that on a 1219. Shorter too.
Platter is heavy, but smaller than the desired 12".
Your 1019 looks like new. That can be a problem when making the decision.
Keep both, unless money is really a factor.
FloridaSam
I like tacos
I am also interested in this as I have both the 1019 and the 1219. I lean slightly to the 1019. I mostly listen to rock and jazz, I love the punchiness of the 1019.
chicks
Lunatic Member
Money isn't a factor at all, space is. I have an Empire 398, JVC AL-A75, these two Duals, and another Dual 1019 which is going up on BT as we speak....
Having seen your different DIY projects (like the
Nodus Psyclone work you posted on diyaudio - I bought one
too thanks to your post), I am sure you can get the auto functions
on the 1219 fixed, with some patience. If I could do it, you definitely can!
There's a lot of information and knowledge about these tables
here and on other forums.
Nodus Psyclone work you posted on diyaudio - I bought one
too thanks to your post), I am sure you can get the auto functions
on the 1219 fixed, with some patience. If I could do it, you definitely can!
There's a lot of information and knowledge about these tables
here and on other forums.
Westy56
A symphony of paradox
chicks
Lunatic Member
Dinked around with this again last night. The steuerpimpel is not the issue on this one; it looks to be nearly new. If I do a manual start, it will return the arm to the edge of the platter, where it binds.
Compared the resistance of the 1219's tonearm to that of the 1019 - the 1019's tonearm reqires zero effort to move throughout its range. The 1219's offers a noticable amount of resistance from its rest to the edge of the platter; too much resistance for the steuerpimpel's clutch function to overcome.
Cleaned and re-lubed every point on the long arm that moves with the tomearm, from the arm connector to the electrical switch to the idler engage mechanism. No change. Will need to disassemble the whole shebang, from the look of it. :sigh:
Compared the resistance of the 1219's tonearm to that of the 1019 - the 1019's tonearm reqires zero effort to move throughout its range. The 1219's offers a noticable amount of resistance from its rest to the edge of the platter; too much resistance for the steuerpimpel's clutch function to overcome.
Cleaned and re-lubed every point on the long arm that moves with the tomearm, from the arm connector to the electrical switch to the idler engage mechanism. No change. Will need to disassemble the whole shebang, from the look of it. :sigh:
Last thing in the world I need right now is another turntable project.But, the Empire is working great right now, re-finishing the arm can wait. So, here's the Dual 1219 as found at the GW last week:
And here it is after sanding and refinishing the cabinet, and replacing one of the two missing acrylic pieces with some nice smoked bronze acrylic from Tap Plastics. They were cut to size while I waited, the smaller piece was beveled on the top, and the front edge was polished - all for $12.
I meant to get to Woodcraft today for the bottom Walnut piece (didn't happen), and still not sure what to do with the front edges. Open to suggestions. Anyone know if there was some sort of handle on the front, or do you just use the wood sides to open and close the lid?
I did have a peek under the plinth. The notorious steuerpimpel thingie was there, looked to be in good condition, but had slipped off the shaft, and was lodged between two other thingies. Popped it back in place, but the auto-arm functions are still not working, so there's much more to be done.
The deck looks very similar to a PE-2020 I used to have before it got modified. Dual bought out PE (perpetual Ebner) in the 70's
chicks
Lunatic Member
This thing is driving me nuts. Electronic devices, I can fix. Mechanical devices? Not so much. I simply cannot to get the tonearm to engage the idler and flip the power switch without binding. No matter what I adjust, there's too much resistance when moving the tonearm from rest to the edge of the platter.
This has nothing to do with the tonearm itself - it moves freely when I disconnect the long arm. Nor the steuerpimple, dried grease, etc. Everything cleaned and lubed.
The manual says next to nothing about this issue. The only mention of anything having to do with this is on page 13, fig 22, which says to adjust the switch arm after loosening screw 146 (red) until the square bolt (hidden, under the blue circle) is 1/64" from the pawl. Problem is, the square bolt and pawl hole are completely hidden from view by a round washer...
Question for you Dual experts - the coil spring on the long arm has a long and a short leg. The short leg is clearly supposed to go into the hook on the long arm (right-hand green circle). The long leg is currently under the left-hand green circle. IIRC, it was originally against the post directly above the red circle in the picture, perhaps under a good deal more tension. Which position is correct? No matter where I put it, or how the screw is adjusted, the arm will bind... Help...
This has nothing to do with the tonearm itself - it moves freely when I disconnect the long arm. Nor the steuerpimple, dried grease, etc. Everything cleaned and lubed.
The manual says next to nothing about this issue. The only mention of anything having to do with this is on page 13, fig 22, which says to adjust the switch arm after loosening screw 146 (red) until the square bolt (hidden, under the blue circle) is 1/64" from the pawl. Problem is, the square bolt and pawl hole are completely hidden from view by a round washer...
Question for you Dual experts - the coil spring on the long arm has a long and a short leg. The short leg is clearly supposed to go into the hook on the long arm (right-hand green circle). The long leg is currently under the left-hand green circle. IIRC, it was originally against the post directly above the red circle in the picture, perhaps under a good deal more tension. Which position is correct? No matter where I put it, or how the screw is adjusted, the arm will bind... Help...
illinoisteve
Super Member
On a 1200 series you can get binding in tonearm return if the lifter rod that elevates the tone arm is set too high. On my 1229, there is a knobby nut you can adjust with a fingertip to tweak how high the cue lever and the auto mechanism lift the arm. There is a point at which adjusting the rod higher doesn't really lift the arm higher, but instead just makes things bind more when the arm pivots.
That dust cover on the 1019 looks like a vegatable crisper drawer out of a refrigerator! Or some kind of square space helmet Out of this world!
It's clear to me, if I were you, I wouldn't be able to part with either of them. I don't do record changing, so any issues with the tall spindles wouldn't bother me, since I'd only run short ones.
That dust cover on the 1019 looks like a vegatable crisper drawer out of a refrigerator! Or some kind of square space helmet Out of this world!
It's clear to me, if I were you, I wouldn't be able to part with either of them. I don't do record changing, so any issues with the tall spindles wouldn't bother me, since I'd only run short ones.
chicks
Lunatic Member
Thing is, it binds in manual mode, too. As soon as I unhook the long arm (at the pin right above the blue circle), the tonearm moves perfectly freely. Can't get that little copper-colored fork below the blue circle to engage the tonearm's pin without binding. There just too much resistance to movement of the long arm, possibly because its spring (under the green circles) isn't positioned correctly, or???