• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Dual 1226 clicking when turned on

Double_Dee

New Member
Hi! I have acquired another Dual from Kleinanzeigen. That place is either heaven or hell, depending on how in-touch you are with your Dual-problem. It's an 1226, and visually it's in great shape. The usual issue of the steuerpimpel exists, and I am going to fix that post haste. The platter mat is slightly warped but I think that's fixable with a few days under weight. Now what bugs me is a weird clicking noise. This sound is not persistent when turning the platter by hand, only when the own mechanisms of the table are engaged. I suspect issues with the motor, but I am frankly not an expert here. Anyone able to offer some advice? I'll post vidoes also.
 
Register to hide this ad
Ah. Could you also make a movie of it ruining without the platter (as in the picture). And then switch between 33/45 rpm a few times? It might be interesting to see if the sound changes for instance.
 
Hi! I have acquired another Dual from Kleinanzeigen. That place is either heaven or hell, depending on how in-touch you are with your Dual-problem. It's an 1226, and visually it's in great shape. The usual issue of the steuerpimpel exists, and I am going to fix that post haste. The platter mat is slightly warped but I think that's fixable with a few days under weight. Now what bugs me is a weird clicking noise. This sound is not persistent when turning the platter by hand, only when the own mechanisms of the table are engaged. I suspect issues with the motor, but I am frankly not an expert here. Anyone able to offer some advice? I'll post vidoes also.
Since it doesn't change tone with the speed control, it's most likely a motor issue. If it was the idler wheel, the speed of the clicking would follow the speed of the idler wheel

take the motor off the turntable but leave it electrically connected and see if the noise is coming from the motor with it disconnected from the turntable
 
Hi @Double_Dee Dee......that is a very clean Dual! It would appear that rather than a warp, something heavy enough to ding that platter mat was dropped on it causing the dent that is apparent in your video. That said, I wonder if the impact might have caused some things to go out of alignment with the mechanism because it sounds a lot like a gear that is rubbing/touching something that it shouldn't be. I'd remove the table from the plinth and get it up on a stand to observe the mechanical workings from below. I'll bet you will see/hear better what is going on if you do that. That's where I would start anyhow. Let us know how it goes amigo.....
 
Since it doesn't change tone with the speed control, it's most likely a motor issue. If it was the idler wheel, the speed of the clicking would follow the speed of the idler wheel

take the motor off the turntable but leave it electrically connected and see if the noise is coming from the motor with it disconnected from the turntable
After getting the platter off I checked the motor. Screwed the bottom bearing bracket off, took the stator off, then the rotor. The top bearing bracket had loose bushings. Tried to put those back in and reassembled the thing, same steps just backwards. I must have put the pulley on too low, because it didn't touch the wheel now, and I could see that when it moved by itself it produced no noise. I undid its little grub screw, raised it a bit, put the platter back and for a few times it worked, with the noise only happening at the beginning of cycling. And after 5-6 tries, it returned. Did the same motor disassembly again, to check if the bushings came loose again (silly thing after concluding the noise doesn't come from the motor, I know), and after putting it back, the motor doesn't always start now. It starts humming, and if I help the pulley by hand it will spin, but it is noticeably weaker, sometimes stopping to a complete halt when touched by the idler. It keeps humming, even if not moving. So this is where I decided to stop for today. I'll try to upload more videos visualizing the issue, but I tried to describe it best as I can.
 
I think the problem is that the motor pulley is wobbling and it moves to the side. It needs some force to come back center. When it's centered it spins the idler and is able to spin the platter as well, although it is noisy when it does so.
 
I've had those motors apart but it has been some time and my memory may not recall all the fine details. First, before taking the motor apart one should make a mark so that the halves can be re-assembled in the precise position that they were in to start with. Then, I remember I had to use a large, flathead screwdriver to go around the shell tapping until it started to move a bit, then more, and finally was able to pull it apart. Once you have the shells off, then you can clean and re-lubricate the bearings at each end of the motor. When you start to re-assemble the halves, take special care to go slowly, tapping with a hammer around the top of the shells until they are seated once again. All the while you are putting it back together I would check the movement of the spindle, making sure it is turning properly and if not, try to see where it is binding and then tap on the opposite side until it moves freely once again. By repeating this process, you should be able to get the thing back together with a freely turning spindle. Sometimes, after getting it totally back together, you may find that it is still not turning quite as freely as it should and that is where @loudnoises suggestion of simply tapping on the outside of the shells can help to re-align the spindle in the bearings. It's slow going, but you should be able to get it right this way. I'm still not convinced, however, that the clicking sound was actually coming from the motor but who knows. Job #1 now is to get the motor back together properly so that it is not binding and causing the spindle to stop turning. Then you can move on to other parts of the machinery to assess for the noise. Good luck, amigo, and let us know how it goes......when you wake up!!! Such a beautiful country you live in!
 
After getting the platter off I checked the motor. Screwed the bottom bearing bracket off, took the stator off, then the rotor. The top bearing bracket had loose bushings. Tried to put those back in and reassembled the thing, same steps just backwards. I must have put the pulley on too low, because it didn't touch the wheel now, and I could see that when it moved by itself it produced no noise. I undid its little grub screw, raised it a bit, put the platter back and for a few times it worked, with the noise only happening at the beginning of cycling. And after 5-6 tries, it returned. Did the same motor disassembly again, to check if the bushings came loose again (silly thing after concluding the noise doesn't come from the motor, I know), and after putting it back, the motor doesn't always start now. It starts humming, and if I help the pulley by hand it will spin, but it is noticeably weaker, sometimes stopping to a complete halt when touched by the idler. It keeps humming, even if not moving. So this is where I decided to stop for today. I'll try to upload more videos visualizing the issue, but I tried to describe it best as I can.
The rotor is misaligned and is hitting the stator. There should be either shoulder bolts or little brackets to make sure the bearrings are in the correct alignment vs the stator
 
The rotor is misaligned and is hitting the stator. There should be either shoulder bolts or little brackets to make sure the bearrings are in the correct alignment vs the stator
Yes the top bracket doesn't hold the bushings at all. A friend has an unused 1214 for parts that has a similar bracket. Could that work as a replacement?
 
Yes the top bracket doesn't hold the bushings at all. A friend has an unused 1214 for parts that has a similar bracket. Could that work as a replacement?
I’ve taken a lot of Dual motors apart. They all have positive location between the holes on the stator and the bearings.
Before you bolt it together , it should not have any sliding movement between the bearing case and the stator.
 
Back
Top Bottom