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Dual turntable madness - wanting to jump in....

W

wino007

New Member
Hi Guys
Helloha. Newbie to using forums and new to this site.
I inherited my Dad's 1219 when he passed a few years ago. His pride and joy, bought from new along with a Fisher valve amp and matching Fisher speakers - all circa 1967/69 - purchased in the US. The Dual came over to me in absolutely mint condition with orig manuals and even the purchase paperwork. Very sadly it got trashed moving to Australia, so heartbroken I stashed it in a cupboard and forgot about it. Recently I have decided to repair and refurbish it in his honor and for my love of spinning vinyl.
Where do I start? Aesthetically I see that the dust cover is destroyed, the head is broken off the arm and the wooden plinth is cracked and will need repairs. I have not tried to turn it on until I get my head around doing this correctly.
I am fairy competent with my hands and not afraid to take on the task.
Can I get some guidance please? Or can someone point me to any repair documentation?
Appreciated.
W.
 
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Thanks for the welcome, and appreciate the positive start......will shoot some pics when I get home later today and post.......BTW, I am in Sydney Australia - anyone know of a Dual following based in my city? Would be cool to network face to face when and as needed for parts and spares etc........
 
Took some piccies for context of the above to explain the "head broken off" (you can probably hear I do not know the correct terminology!).......incl a spread of the orig documentation as a FYI. Thoughts on the damage? Is the 1219 a good model? Before this damage ran like a dream......my Dad seriously looked after this one. Was 100% mint! A job worth doing?
 

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It's definitely worth restoring and the damage is not that bad. I would start by very carefully removing the cartridge sled from the head-shell and then remove the cartridge from the sled...

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=56219

s-l1600.jpg
 
It looks as though the cartridge "body" and the cartridge "housing" which is attached to the sled came apart which is also an easy fix. It should look like this...

$_57.JPG


$_57.JPG
 
You will need a small-wattage soldering iron. Using an entire replacement arm might be easier than replacing the magnesium head. Your unit is an example of the earliest 1219s. The arm was soon re-designed with a bit more meat where yours broke, as well as a change of bearing design. But everything is interchangeable. The arm rest, though was widened a hair for the beefier head.

Because it was your Father's, we will make that super extra effort to get it fixed.
 
wino007 said:
I inherited my Dad's 1219 when he passed a few years ago. His pride and joy, bought from new along with a Fisher valve amp and matching Fisher speakers - all circa 1967/69 - purchased in the US.
Click to expand...

FWIW, Fisher stopped producing tube (valve) amps around '67-'68, but the 1219 wasn't introduced until 1970.

Can anyone confirm when Shure introduced the M91ED? I think it was around '73?
 
I believe there are new headshells being offered in Bartertown right now. Two different types. Might be a good idea to pony up for access. I know there are people with dual bases as well. Just start a WTB thread their. :thumbsup:
 
Hi!

I have been fixing up 1219s this spring. One had similar damage to its arm. The end part that the headshell mounts to broke off. I got a "parts" unit that the arm looked like yours off EBay. The wires are attached to a very small circuit board that is attached to the end of the arm that your headshell attaches to. Since the wires were still attached to that little circuit board, I had a part unit worth trying to fix. I have the end of a arm that would fit yours. It's off a 1229. Did one off a 1229 and fixed the 1219. You can have it, if yours can be fixed. The arm tube looks Ok from your pics.

Here's what I did. First, the end of the arm is held on by one screw. I removed it with a stubby small driver. Next I flipped it over. Labeling where the wires go. Unsoldered the wires underneath. GENTLY pull wires from the top end of the arm.
Be careful not break wires on the tiny circuit board. Now you can place the arm piece on the tube. Reinserting the piece I can send you. Thread the wires through it and and into the arm tube. Resolder, using a small soldering iron mentioned by Seth (Notransistors). Looks like the Shure cartridge is unharmed.

To bad you aren't here in NY. Work on Dual's but not as knowledgeable as Seth. Have several whole arms intact. Seth can take them apart from the main unit. Way cool. Arms and cueing are off limits for me. Let me know if you want my housing. Yours free. Best of luck.

Eric
 
beatcomber said:

FWIW, Fisher stopped producing tube (valve) amps around '67-'68, but the 1219 wasn't introduced until 1970.

Can anyone confirm when Shure introduced the M91ED? I think it was around '73?
Click to expand...
I remember Shure introduced the V-15 III in 73 because I bought one new that year and have been using them since.
 
!!WOW!! You guys are amazing!!! So much feedback and advice so quickly.........and so much learning about this units history!! - feel like taking a day off work to get started - the bummer now is waiting until Saturday!! On the timings of purchase - my dad did a 3 year extended specialization in Seattle 1967 to 1970 and I am told he bought his kit during this period.......for clarity I will look for some sort of purchase date among the documentation...always good to know the facts from my side - but the dates generally align short of the Shure M91ED.....is the 1219 a good model?
 
Before you invest too much time and money in this - read up on the "dearing ring" problem, and GENTLY attempt to move the single play/multi-play lever back by the tonearm pivot/gimbal assembly. If it does not move DO NOT FORCE IT. There's a plastic part in there that breaks when abused. If it's already broken, you may want to decide if it's not worth buying another unit and using yours for parts, much as it pains me to suggest that. There is a repair finally available for this, although it's a bit daunting. I had a "parts" 1229 that I suspected of having a similar issue, but after disassembling it (I figured, at that point, what did I have to lose?) I discovered that it was simply a loose nut.

At that point I looked at the pile of parts and realized that I probably wanted someone who knew what he was doing to put it back together and adjust it for me.
 
This is one of many reasons I suggested an entire arm, rather than just a head. Also, our new Aussie friend will need a 50 Hz pulley if the table had never been played in the land of digeridoos and funnel spiders.
 
"digeridoos and funnel spiders" - LOL!! Except those funnel web guys are actually real SCARY!!.......will test the play/multi-play lever and advise. re: 50 Hz pulley - assume because of different voltage? My Dad used his system a lot while living in South Africa which is 220v....not 100% sure if he was running it through an adapter of if he had the necessary mods done already........how can I check?

UPDATE - did some image searches at work - where is the play/multi lever? Cannot see anything labelled as such? So frustrating not been able to get started!!
 
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South Africa is indeed 50 Hz. Unlikely he used an adapter, simply used the right pulley [and re-wired the motor connection block]. So not an issue here.

I cannot imagine a spider with fangs that rival a snake's. You have some nasty animals there- spiders, snakes, poisonous octopuses, automobile executives that close all Holden plants in favor of making their cars elsewhere [I own an HSV Monaro], crocs, deadly sea snails and sea snakes, nasty jellyfish and who knows what else. I miss Steve Irwin.
 
beatcomber said:

FWIW, Fisher stopped producing tube (valve) amps around '67-'68, but the 1219 wasn't introduced until 1970.

Can anyone confirm when Shure introduced the M91ED? I think it was around '73?
Click to expand...

That's right, the 1219 was introduced in 1970. I also assumed that the M91ED was introduced in 1973 but looking thru my Shure brochures I see the M91ED listed along with the V15 type ll in 1972.
 
The lever you mention is located at the back of the arm on the right side. Next to the antiskate knob. If you can't fix yours I do have a 1219 ( number 4) that has a 110/220 selector that was missing the platter, counter weight, set screw for the counter weight, and a headshell. I got it for parts. Trouble is, I get them and they are to good to part out. Three 1219s and a 1229 this spring. All fixed. Number 4 was also to good to junk. Got everything except I need a speed selector lever. Have it set on 33. Wish you were here in the states...unit four would solve a lot problems as a free donor. I have three other 1219s. Good luck. Any questions ask!

Eric
 
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