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Dynakit ST 70. A Restoration Journey

Stereodiver

Well-Known Member
I’ve always wanted to try a tube amp. I just haven’t found one I was willing to afford. Until now.
A few weeks ago a friend of mine turned me onto a Craig’s list listing for this amp. It happened to be at a local used record store. I used my iPod and a pair of medium sized Kef speakers that the store had to test it before purchasing. With the limited volume the iPod was capable of supplying it passed a signal with seemingly equal loudness from both channels. I couldn’t detect any hum. It seemed to be very quiet. A deal was struck, not a score, a fair price, and I brought it home.

After removing the tube cage and finding it had all Dynaco branded tubes I knew they would need to be tested before any serious listening could be done. The top of the glass bottle on one of the EL 34’s has a milky white coating inside. I didn’t think that was a good thing.

I decided to clean it up and do some research before plugging it in. I found dcgillespie’s excellent write up and read all 36 pages of it. Along with the assembly manual and much more that is pretty easily accessible in this day and age.

Taking to heart dcgillespie’s thoughts, I’d like to do a ”Restoration”. Not necessarily any “Modification’s”, other than replacing any parts deemed to be tired after the 60 or so years of this amps life.

After completing the cleaning/detailing this is what I’m starting with.

8B35B6A3-E278-47E7-A90C-DFF3A69C6C4F.jpeg

In the coming days/weeks I’ll be posting questions about the specific things that need to be addressed. Tubes, caps, and resistors. Im hoping all who have experience with this amp will guide me and share the things they’ve learned.
I’m looking at this as a journey. Much like a good motorcycle ride. The fun is the ride, not necessarily the destination. Besides, this is supposed to be something to get me through the dark days of winter. Although, I’m not sure I can wait that long.

Thanks to all in advance, Mark
 
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I’ve always wanted to try a tube amp.

After removing the tube cage and finding it had all Dynaco branded tubes I knew they would need to be tested before any serious listening could be done. The top of the glass bottle on one of the EL 34’s has a milky white coating inside. I didn’t think that was a good thing.

...I’d like to do a ”Restoration”... other than replacing any parts deemed to be tired after the 60 or so years of this amps life.

After completing the cleaning/detailing this is what I’m starting with.

In the coming days/weeks I’ll be posting questions about the specific things that need to be addressed. Tubes, caps, and resistors.

Thanks to all in advance, Mark

Mark,

The chassis looks great! and with all the original Dynaco branded tubes that's a good sign that the unit is still all original thus no one else has been in there messing around.

As to the milky white top on the EL34 you are correct in that it is not a good thing you'll need to find another one.

Looking forward to your progress and pictures, we like pictures
 
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My plan is to keep it “Stock” as much as possible. I’ll have more to say as I move through it.

Yes! There will be plenty of pictures.
 
I thought the original ST70 assembly instructions were kind of "paint by numbers"... written so the average guy could put it together without really understanding how and why, or what was going on.

I read this book while restoring my ST70 and learned so much. For example, why do the heater supplies go in first and why should the wires get stuffed into corners? How to minimize hum? I learned about the power supply, the bias supply, the driver stage and phase splitter.

This book set me on my journey while restoring my ST70...it was like taking a college level course with lab.

Good luck and enjoy!


"Building Valve Amplifiers" by Morgan Jones.


 
This driver board is close to "stock". Read the description for more information.
That's a good suggestion. The original driver tubes are getting harder to find good ones and are expensive. The supply is drying up.
Even though the 6GH8A's aren't made anymore like the original 7199's, the 6GH8A's are still plentiful and plenty to choose from. Some just use a tube adaptor, but the replacement board will look better without the adaptors sticking up from the board. Plus you will be using all new parts.
 
That's a good suggestion. The original driver tubes are getting harder to find good ones and are expensive. The supply is drying up.
Even though the 6GH8A's aren't made anymore like the original 7199's, the 6GH8A's are still plentiful and plenty to choose from. Some just use a tube adaptor, but the replacement board will look better without the adaptors sticking up from the board. Plus you will be using all new parts.
The other advantage to a new board, you aren't dealing with early 60s fragile phenolic boards. They can be dealt with but unless you are careful its real easy to have the traces lift or rip.
Exactly my thinking.

Vintage Electron has the proper inventory and if I ever restore another ST70 I will use this board.
Check out their site... I've bought parts from them for my Sound Valves equipment.
 
I like my VTA ST-70. A few days ago I replaced the banana type test jacks with 2mm jacks. That allowed me room to add a ground jack.
 

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SO - Have you hooked it up yet ?? I am so tempted to follow your example, but have to discipline myself !
 
I made this mistake years ago rebuilding an ST-70:

I learned the hard way that not all electrolytic capacitors have their negative side attached to ground...
The steam cloud that came from underneath was pretty impressive though!

In other words, make sure the caps in the bias supply have their positive side connected to ground...
 
Exactly my thinking.

Vintage Electron has the proper inventory and if I ever restore another ST70 I will use this board.
Check out their site... I've bought parts from them for my Sound Valves equipment.
I used their 6GH8 board in my covid year project '70.
 
Also suggest you look up and follow wiring color codes for tube amplifiers (Red=B+)...it makes wiring, tracing and trouble shooting easier.
An original ST70 is difficult to work on because the original supplied hookup wire was black...it could look like a "rat's nest" in there depending on the skill of the original assembler.

I prefer high temperature hookup wire. Voltage rating depends on the circuit (don't need high voltage wire for the heater circuit).

Also consider voltage and temperature ratings when choosing your components.
 
Thank you all for the interest! I am aware of all the different new driver boards available. However, at this point in time I’d like to start with keeping it as close to stock as possible. If the original driver board proves too difficult to work with, I’ll cross that bridge went I get there.

I’d like to get it up and running as is. Than listen to it for a bit in order to determine a base line as to how it sounds. Hopefully that will enable me to hear the changes as I work through replacing the tired old parts.

To that end, I need new tubes.

Thanks to my wonderful brother I have available a Sencore Mighty Mite VII tube tester. It performs 4 tests. It tests for shorts, Emission, a Life Test, and Grid Leakage. Please keep in mind that this is all new to me. Any further explanations are very welcome.

Lets start with the EL 34’s.
047C987D-C7C8-4559-B4D1-58F7919FFA47.jpeg
All but one pass the emission test. They fail the life test, and pass the grid leakage test. The one that has the milky coating on the inside just plain fails.
Remember, I tested the amp before I bought it. It made music, but obviously had a burnt out tube. I’m guessing that it was only making half the power it’s capable of. I’m a little surprised it seemed to work as well as it did so any explanation is appreciated.

Moving on to the 7199.
7E825513-FDAE-458E-9308-C84C1463B719.jpeg
These pass the emission test, pass the life test, but fail the grid leakage test. Failing any test I’m sure is a bad thing. An explanation of how bad, and how much I need to worry about this would be appreciated!

The GZ34/5AR4. I must not have taken a picture of this one. It, in fact, passed ALL the tests. The meter showed in the ”Good” range, and the number scale read 93 for emissions, 93 for life test, and 1 for grid leakage.

I need new EL 34’s.
At this point in time, do I really need new 7199’s? How much do I worry about failing the Grid Leakage test?
The rectifier tube appears good. Sure, it’s old but, I’m of the mind that “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. Besides, I’m not reading good things about modern GZ34/5AR4’s. And, it has the Dynaco silk screen.

For personal reasons I’d like to stay away from Russian tubes. Please, let’s just leave it at that so we don’t get this thread locked.
For the EL34’s that leaves me with JJ, Psvane, (I like their story) or Tube Amp Doctor. (TAD). Who’s story I also like.
Anyone have any experience with any of these?

For the 7199’s the only choice seems to be using the 6GH8A with the adapters. This is the route I will go if you tell me not to use the 7199’s

I’d like to keep the GZ34/5AR4. Any reason not to?

Thanks, Mark
 
Looks nice! I've done my own Dynaco 70 resurrection. I went a different route though. Mine was a complete non-working basket case when I got it. I even had to rescue the output transformers. Someone had hacked them in to "singled ended" units. Resoldering the screen taps and restoring the proper E and I core config had them back in shape. I went with the VTA 70 driver and even used an updated power transformer for more current capability and to be able to run modern line voltage. I love it, but it really isn't a Dynaco ST70 anymore.

I guess for me it would be JJ tubes then. I am running them in a few amps and have not had any problems. For likely similar reasons I have no interest in Chinese tubes, although I can do that with tubes as there are more choices. Staying away from items made over there is impossible otherwise.
 
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At some point adding the yellow sheet mod would be a good idea.
The sec8nd post shows the original. But there is also the other adding two more diodes.
 
 
..I have available a Sencore Mighty Mite VII tube tester. It performs 4 tests. It tests for shorts, Emission, a Life Test, and Grid Leakage. Please keep in mind that this is all new to me. Any further explanations are very welcome.

Lets start with the EL 34’s.

All but one pass the emission test
. They fail the life test, and pass the grid leakage test.

Moving on to the 7199.

These
pass the emission test, pass the life test, but fail the grid leakage test. Failing any test I’m sure is a bad thing. An explanation of how bad, and how much I need to worry about this would be appreciated!

How much do I worry about failing the Grid Leakage test?
The rectifier tube appears good...I’d like to keep the GZ34/5AR4. Any reason not to?

Mark

Here's hoping others will chime in and offer up an explanation on why the tubes would be testing like you mentioned.

As to the 5AR4 keep it, they're not hard to come by but as you mentioned if it aint broke don't fix it
 
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