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Eleven III Bias

7

70WR

Super Member
My last recent receiver find, a Kenwood Eleven III, I set the bias which I believe calls for 90mV. I was able to get VRe1 & VRe2 adjusted but not right on 90mV. The best I can get is 89.4 on one (VRe1) and 89.8 on the other (VRe2). I get a little wavering up and down, but the figures I just mentioned is about what it seems to mostly settle to. Is there a plus/minus spec for setting the Eleven series?
Before checking & adjusting, I had the receiver on for about an hour with the function switch to "Aux" and volume set all the way down CCW. No input connected to the "Aux".

Also - I thought this Eleven III would look nearly the same internally as my Eleven GX but the difference was more than expected. Also, my GX bias spec is for 45mV while the III is 90mV - or I have the wrong information.

This Eleven III (as well as my GX) is in excellent cosmetic condition. Couldn't pass em up.
 
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The Eleven III Bias should also be 45mV.
The SM shows 90mV but it is for 45mV per side.
I confirmed this with other AK Members as mine was running warm set at 90mV.
 
^ Rod - Wow! I sure am glad you replied because it makes sense - I was wondering why they would use a trimmer and have it set to 80%+ of it travel, near the end. That didn't make sense to me having a range where a setting would just make it in near one end - also, from where I found them was no where near where I ended up setting them. I first found then around 40-45% of their sweep travel, unlike between 80-90 as I set them. The thought did hit me, but I also thought maybe due to age of components and such that it needed compensation.
I played it for a few hours this morning but at low levels - now I'll have to get back in to re-adjust.

Thanks for replying
 
I have a 10000III on my bench now. From what I've read it is the same as this. I just replaced the outputs and need to set the bias. Where do I connect the voltmeter? It doesn't say in the service manual, it just says what to adjust.
 
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^ You'll need to hook your test leads up to the 2 outside pins on each side of the 4 pin connectors. See attached diagram.
 

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I readjusted my Eleven III bias and was able to achieve 44.8 on one side and 44.9 on the other side. I noticed trimmer pots are close to where they were before I got in there and messed with it - I should have known - lesson learn.

The adjustment are near the top edge of the board, while the pins are near the bottom for the DVM. Pins 6 & 7 for one side, pins 26 & 27 for the other. Green wire and blue to the posts for each side. Green is (-) and blue is (+) for the DVM. The board sits vertical for the Eleven III. / It's different for my GX, and its board sits horizontal lying down flat on the chassis.

add - oh.. add jumper across the timer. So now just use the power switch to turn on/off. Although my timers work, I understand that the coupler between the timer shaft and knob shaft are very prone to failure being a plastic sleeve piece.
 
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add - oh.. add jumper across the timer. So now just use the power switch to turn on/off. Although my timers work, I understand that the coupler between the timer shaft and knob shaft are very prone to failure being a plastic sleeve piece.
Click to expand...

If you leave the timer on RESET it will be the same as using a jumper on the timer.

In the electrical section of Home Depot or Lowes, I found a Thomas&Betts splicer/reducer # ASR1114-B2. It's lightweight aluminum and no modifications needed to be done yo install it. Works great to replace the plastic coupler. Mine was brittle and broke shortly after I got my 11.

Here's a pic of it installed:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=157600&d=1246581447
 
^ That's good to know. And that sure does look much more heavy duty - thanks again.

FYI - Just got done listening to the Eleven III again. Rotated it in one of my small spare rooms. An hour or so on FM, then a couple LPs. JVC QL-Y7 TT & Klipsch KG 3.2 speakers. Feeling the top was just barely warm - so far so good.
 
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