epi te 70
- Thread starter JGlenn
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I own the pre T/E series 70's. Have had them since new in 1979. Very nice smaller speaker. Usually have the 6 1/2 bass diver which is a bit anemic for full sound. Have very good teeters.
I installed a B&G bass driver and it made a big difference. You might like to tweak yours too. Unfortunately, B&G no longer offers that driver. It's a bit too bass heavy for home listening anyway - but very good for the shop where they now reside
Let's see if anyone has the T/S parameters for the EPI 70 series bass drivers (woofer). If someone has them or has tested a good working driver, we can work off that. Before you go the route of new foams, let's see if a bit more punch is available with a reasonably priced replacement - say $40 each max. If not - do the foams and replace the crossover cap and your good to go forever
I installed a B&G bass driver and it made a big difference. You might like to tweak yours too. Unfortunately, B&G no longer offers that driver. It's a bit too bass heavy for home listening anyway - but very good for the shop where they now reside
Let's see if anyone has the T/S parameters for the EPI 70 series bass drivers (woofer). If someone has them or has tested a good working driver, we can work off that. Before you go the route of new foams, let's see if a bit more punch is available with a reasonably priced replacement - say $40 each max. If not - do the foams and replace the crossover cap and your good to go forever
merrylander
AK Member
That whole T/E line will benefit from a brace between the front and rear panels, just above the woofer. This will stop some annoying cabinet resonances.
I agree with Merrylander, all the EPIs I've ever worked on can benefit from a front/back brace.
Using the specs from Human (good idea), you can upgrade the woofer. The big deal with all the Burhoe designs is that the woofer rolls of mechanically as the tweeter comes on line. Need to get that merge pretty well factored in. If the new woofer goes a bit higher, you can reduce the cap size from 10 uF to 8.7 uF or there abouts and just move the crossover point up a bit.
PE or Madisound should be able to recommend a good woofer for the replacement. I guess I'd be looking for something with a bit longer excursion and a bit more magnet.
Using the specs from Human (good idea), you can upgrade the woofer. The big deal with all the Burhoe designs is that the woofer rolls of mechanically as the tweeter comes on line. Need to get that merge pretty well factored in. If the new woofer goes a bit higher, you can reduce the cap size from 10 uF to 8.7 uF or there abouts and just move the crossover point up a bit.
PE or Madisound should be able to recommend a good woofer for the replacement. I guess I'd be looking for something with a bit longer excursion and a bit more magnet.
winters860
Super Member
The T/E series doesn't get the attention of the earlier EPI lines because it was the first to abandon Burhoe's woofer and inverted dome tweeter. While I've heard they're capable performers in their own right, the comments about the original EPI don't necessarily apply to the T/E speakers.
saea501
Well-Known Member
Winters is exactly right. The TE series were made after Winslow was forced from EPI. That series was the early steps toward the demise of a great speaker company. I spent a lot of years working with the company and I don't even consider that series part of Epicure.
The model 50 was the small speaker that would knock your socks off. Maybe take your cabinets, brace them up and install 50 drivers in them. Huw Powell at Humanspeakers does really great work. His drivers are original equipment and top quality. He works pretty closely with Winslow so his stuff is right on the money.
The model 50 was the small speaker that would knock your socks off. Maybe take your cabinets, brace them up and install 50 drivers in them. Huw Powell at Humanspeakers does really great work. His drivers are original equipment and top quality. He works pretty closely with Winslow so his stuff is right on the money.
CUlater
Member #287, thereabouts
I'm just posting a dissenting opinion...as an owner of pairs of 'classic' 100s and the T/E 100s, I DO like the newer woofers. I'm not one for the whole audiophillia scene, but the newer T/E 100 10" woofers are what I would term 'fast' - that is, they go nice and low and seem well 'damped', while still keeping a nice ability for 'slam' impacts. Don't know any other way to put it.
The T/E 70 problem is, I'm afraid, mainly one of just not having enough driver surface area and air-suspension cabinet volume to go really, really low. The T/E 70s are only going to be good at reasonable listening levels for 50 Hz or so regardless of what woofer is in there, IMHO.
Agree with the cabinet bracing - thin cabinets are a problem with the T/E and T/E series II models.
I'd refoam the 70s and see what you think - you can pick up foams from MATelectronics for a couple of bucks, and you're off to the races!
The T/E 70 problem is, I'm afraid, mainly one of just not having enough driver surface area and air-suspension cabinet volume to go really, really low. The T/E 70s are only going to be good at reasonable listening levels for 50 Hz or so regardless of what woofer is in there, IMHO.
Agree with the cabinet bracing - thin cabinets are a problem with the T/E and T/E series II models.
I'd refoam the 70s and see what you think - you can pick up foams from MATelectronics for a couple of bucks, and you're off to the races!
merrylander
AK Member
I had a pair of EPI120Bs in here once. After a refoam of the woofs they were simply great speakers. I found that if you took the (usually) hardened foam grills and washed them in warm water and detergent they became supple again. Thing was that you had to lay them out flat on some cardboard and pin them to shape else thay would shrink.
IM definately going to refoam the orig. woofers and add bracing to the cabs as you guys suggested. I was also looking at the rebuilt drivers and specs at humanspeakers.com. anyone know the difference between the te series woofers and the 50 series woofers? there both the same price and there both rated down to 50hz so im wondering if swapping in the 50 series woofer will even change the bass response much. can someone recomend a good set of caps to use in the xovers
I ended up putting in some dayton classic woofers and I have to say im actually impressed with how these sound. I wasnt expected much from such small speakers but theese actually have some punch to them. the new woofers are supposed to go down to 33Hz. I got some new caps to try out in them too but I'm not sure if I should even bother. when I go to make some braces for the cabs how should i mount them ? some good wood glue maybe ?
