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Eric Engineering - Tuner - model 357

cademan said:
I believe that those are not resistors? What does the schematic say?

Your "found online" pics do show the golden rectifier has been replaced by a black diode which is most likely a 1N4007 or UF4007 diode.

Also, this tuner reminds me of a DeWald.
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I tried a UF4007 I had on hand. It works, but I smelled something funny. Should I try a 1N4007? Is one better than the other?
 
The UF is a bit faster but for this it doesn't matter much. Did you have it facing the right way? If not the caps get neg voltage and they won't like it.

Will also need a resistor bigger than the 10 ohm to keep voltage right
 
Did you have the diode connected so the white band was pointing towards the can capacitor?

You can probably get away with using the original selenium rectifier and it may never give you any problems.
 
Lavane said:
The tuner looks a lot like an Eico on the outside.
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I also thought of Eico but most Eico's I have seen had more of a golden color to them and not so red looking. Could be the light. This tuner also reminded me of a certain Harman-Kardon.

Those Eico's (the HFT-90) had a really cool tuning dial which was like a tuning eye type of tube attached to the dial string. I had one but got rid of it. My Knight KG-50 has the same type of tuning eye and I ainta never getting rid of this one.:no:
 
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cademan said:
I also thought of Eico but most Eico's I have seen had more of a golden color to them and not so red looking. Could be the light. This tuner also reminded me of a certain Harman-Kardon.

Those Eico's (the HFT-90) had a really cool tuning dial which was like a tuning eye type of tube attached to the dial string. I had one but got rid of it. My Knight KG-50 has the same type of tuning eye and I ainta never getting rid of this one.:no:
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I had an Eico HFT-90 for years. The tuning eye was cool. I used it in a mono system in my shop with a small 6V6 PP amp.
 
gadget73 said:
The UF is a bit faster but for this it doesn't matter much. Did you have it facing the right way? If not the caps get neg voltage and they won't like it.

Will also need a resistor bigger than the 10 ohm to keep voltage right
Click to expand...

Thanks! There's a 100 ohm on there. Looks original. Is that ok?
 
cademan said:
Did you have the diode connected so the white band was pointing towards the can capacitor?

You can probably get away with using the original selenium rectifier and it may never give you any problems.
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Thanks. The white band points to the capacitor.
 
Dig22 said:
Thanks! There's a 100 ohm on there. Looks original. Is that ok?
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probably going to need to be larger in order to keep the voltages right. Silicon has much lower drop than selenium

or honestly if the stock rectifier is working, leave it be. personally I think people get way too focused on these things. They aren't great but in low current demand applications like this they don't tend to be all that troublesome.
 
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gadget73 said:
probably going to need to be larger in order to keep the voltages right. Silicon has much lower drop than selenium

or honestly if the stock rectifier is working, leave it be. personally I think people get way too focused on these things. They aren't great but in low current demand applications like this they don't tend to be all that troublesome.
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what value resistor do you recommend? I dont have schematics. I went with 100 ohm, which what was in there. I’ve attached photos of my fixes. It sounds great, warm and full.

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i have no idea, need to figure out what the current voltage is along with the drop across the resistor. Swap the rectifier and see what the voltage is, then some math should figure it out

or again, just leave it alone
 
gadget73 said:
probably going to need to be larger in order to keep the voltages right. Silicon has much lower drop than selenium

or honestly if the stock rectifier is working, leave it be. personally I think people get way too focused on these things. They aren't great but in low current demand applications like this they don't tend to be all that troublesome.
Click to expand...

This is exactly why I say to put it back or leave it alone. I have radios with the original selenium with no problems whatsoever. :thumbsup:
 
cademan said:
This is exactly why I say to put it back or leave it alone. I have radios with the original selenium with no problems whatsoever. :thumbsup:
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1. Should I clean the selenium rectifier with a non corrosive electrical cleaner? Or leave it be?
2. If I leave the diode, I don't know how to do the math to figure the correct ohms for the resistor. If I leave it at 100 ohm, should I make it a larger watt resistor?
3. Should I bother add an in-line fuse?

Thanks again.
 
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