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EV Pi15-3 speakers

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Ok, I will. don't know where I will put them or lend them to yet, but I like speakers that have already been blessed in a church. :)
 
PI stands for Permanent Installation and 15-3 means 15" 3-way. Good speakers - designed or PA/commercial sound uses. They have the VMR so there's a lot to work with and they sound very good.
 
Ok, I bought them for two and a quarter Ben Franklins, my daughter drove 50 miles to pick them up and then one third of the way to me, my #1 son intercepted them and told me they sound incredible and "Good Luck" ever getting them after he listened to them. Oh well, Merry Christmas son. He said that one of the 6.5" mid range speakers didn't work and I told him to remove it and hook it up direct to the amp at low volume to test it. It does work so the problem must be the cross over. I told him to take detailed pictures of the crossover and I will post it's images.

So, what causes a mid speaker to not get signal? The only info I can find is a sales pdf and two AudioKarma threads:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...o-voice-pi-15-3-speakers.541864/#post-7077981

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...ity-pi-15-3l-15in-3-ways.480833/#post-6233606

http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?f=PI 12-2 and PI 15-3 EDS.pdf
 
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My son Can't get the woofer screws out, I assume they are just hex head wood screws by the looks of the same screws holding the crossover to the enclosure. I told my son to see if he can grab the hex head screw with a needle nose pliers. Also, does the bottom back blue capacitor look like the back wire is hooked up to anything or is it loose and broken.





 
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Looks like a cap is loose and is probably the issue keeping the mid from working.

those are sound reinforcement speakers they are not home speakers but some here like that sound. One can do a lot better for home speakers if that is what you want and you can let your son destroy his hearing, they play loud.
 
Yes, find the appropriate size hex key wrench for the woofer screws. Sure, these are PA speakers but they use the same midrange VMR units and horn tweeters as EVs highly regarded Interface D home speakers. I wouldn't have any reservations about using them for home audio. They will need a subwoofer for low bass, however. They will have plenty of punch and midrange clarity. I agree, it may be a broken wire in the crossover that's causing the problem.
 
Yes, find the appropriate size hex key wrench for the woofer screws
They're not a socket head screw. Just a hex head.

I would:

a) carefully slot them with a dremel tool and cutting wheel,

or

b) grind down a cheap nut driver's outside diameter until it can be easily pushed on those heads.

Those woofers are heavy, and they're not properly mounted without T-nuts and machine screws.
 
Thanks guys, he tried a needle nose pliers and vise grip but no go. I was thinking of drilling out the screw heads after covering everything with poster board and then rotating the woofers a little to install tee nuts and allen head machine screws, but I like Bowtie's suggestion of a dremel w/ slots since he wants one anyway (happy birthday son).

I was going to use these for my surround speakers at home before he (#1), intercepted them for his garage(he did find them after all, but then backed out of wanting them), which is alright since I love high efficiency speakers and am not afraid and know how to use subs :) . And besides, what do you buy kids that have modern tastes, money, and think that their old man is brain damaged from the '70's(I am), (except when it comes to his music reproduction(world's greatest sounding $1400 stereo) or how to modify a Volvo). He uses Altec Model 15's for his main speakers inside.
 
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Tell him to take his time and go slow. If he cuts the slots too deep, the head can split. Not deep enough and the screwdriver can slip out, and Murphy's law dictates that the wild flying screwdriver tip will go thru the woofer cone or surround every time.
 
#1 reported that the rear blue capacitor is indeed separated from the solder joint, and this week while I am visiting him, I will(delegate) have him get it going. :)
 
Ok, surgery was a success. :) We cut the first slot across the middle of the screw head, gouging the speaker gasket, but cut the rest at the edge and an angle and they came right out. The capacitor wire that failed was only laying against the terminal instead of passing threw and it must have been set down hard once, knocking it loose, and after de-soldering and inserting it, re-soldered it and all is well.

The speaker hole is exactly one inch smaller than the speaker diameter, so the tee-nut holes are right up to the edge of the speaker hole edge. Worried that the hole would blow out, we tried putting JB weld on the flat of the tee-nut to glue it in place, but it made such a mess that we abandoned that for the rest of the nuts. I have installed tee-nuts into ply-wood baffles before and they squeezed in like butter, but man that MDF board is tough, we had to squeeze with a good sized channel locks plyers with all of out might (after placing a washer on top to protect the top of the baffle), to get those buggers pressed in.

We are going to replace the caps and need two 30uf, two 25uf, and two 4.5mfd (is mfd the same as uf?). The black and red wires coming out if the resistor pack on the left go to the horn tweeter, the combined black wires go to the 6.5" mid and the black and red wire coming out of the 4.0 mh inductor goes to the woofer.

Let me just say that these things are very bright and base shy, I would like to add an L-pad to both the mid and tweeter although for now we will just adjust with a passive EQ and eventually add a 10" Alpine type R sub next each speaker with a Crown xls 1000 dsp amp.





 
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Give the woofers a little time to loosen up if the speakers have been sitting for any length of time, the bass may improve a bit.

What's on that heatsink that looks like a pair of TO-3 cased transistors?
 
What's on that heatsink that looks like a pair of TO-3 cased transistors?
Sorry, I forgot to take a lot of pictures while trying to get everything done in one session while the little kids where asleep. Those are TO-3 transistors(I guess) and I assume those and the resistor are part of the famous tweeter protection circuit others have mentioned?
 
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