Ok, surgery was a success.

We cut the first slot across the middle of the screw head, gouging the speaker gasket, but cut the rest at the edge and an angle and they came right out. The capacitor wire that failed was only laying against the terminal instead of passing threw and it must have been set down hard once, knocking it loose, and after de-soldering and inserting it, re-soldered it and all is well.
The speaker hole is exactly one inch smaller than the speaker diameter, so the tee-nut holes are right up to the edge of the speaker hole edge. Worried that the hole would blow out, we tried putting JB weld on the flat of the tee-nut to glue it in place, but it made such a mess that we abandoned that for the rest of the nuts. I have installed tee-nuts into ply-wood baffles before and they squeezed in like butter, but man that MDF board is tough, we had to squeeze with a good sized channel locks plyers with all of out might (after placing a washer on top to protect the top of the baffle), to get those buggers pressed in.
We are going to replace the caps and need two 30uf, two 25uf, and two 4.5mfd (is mfd the same as uf?). The black and red wires coming out if the resistor pack on the left go to the horn tweeter, the combined black wires go to the 6.5" mid and the black and red wire coming out of the 4.0 mh inductor goes to the woofer.
Let me just say that these things are very bright and base shy, I would like to add an L-pad to both the mid and tweeter although for now we will just adjust with a passive EQ and eventually add a 10" Alpine type R sub next each speaker with a Crown xls 1000 dsp amp.
