You need a roof antenna. Consider a Yagi in the attic if you can't place one on the roof. It's way better than any wire dipole for distant or weak stations. You can DIY one.
DIY Yagi.
DIY Yagi.
Geez, man.OMG, OBMG. $10 for 10'? What a steal. I suppose that doesn't include shipping or "insurance".
Sometimes twinlead shows up in thrift or "Christian" stores.
Just trying to help a brother out.
I replied to the question “is it still available?”
OP doesn’t have that stuff lying around like we do.
Exactly. 1.5 meters = 59.05 inches, which rounds off to 60 inches.
I'm not so sure about that. If the radio antenna input has a 300 ohm impedance, it is matched to the twin input. This means nothing is reflected back into the antenna, ie, there is no standing wave.The overall length should be some whole fraction of the wavelength. For 100mHz, the wavelength is 3 meters. One-quarter length for each dipole is typical — for a total of 1.5 meters, for both dipoles.
And it was good of you to try helping, OBMG74. Even $10 may be worthwhile if it brings success.
My reply was only because I'm sometimes amazed at the price some sellers ask on ebay. I should maybe be embarassed at the boxes full "possibly-useful-in-the-future" stuff just lying around. That includes 50' of new-in-package Archer 20ga, low-loss, foam twinlead, that cost $1 at the local St. Vincent DePaul. Betcha it would cost almost $10 to send the OP a chunk of it.
Twin lead is definitely available. Lots of listings on the Bay. No affiliation. This is just one example. I really don't know if any of this will get the OP a stronger signal. I used to just use rabbit ears because they were adjustable and I could easily move them around...
noooo I just bought all this **** hahaha
jeez maybe I'll just buy one of those on ebay and connect (solder?) it to the dipole antenna.
First thought - try one of the ham radio/antique electronics flea markets.
Second - ebay like (NA) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1164760722...rp4tzuAb2/rTJt+qQJSB3gfOQ=|tkp:Bk9SR-zwqtCkZQ
There are also electronic surplus sights, but they want about a dollar a foot.
Lastly, since you already have the coax solution parts, see how that works. My two cents. (even though looks like no more pennies.)
Second - ebay like (NA) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1164760722...rp4tzuAb2/rTJt+qQJSB3gfOQ=|tkp:Bk9SR-zwqtCkZQ
There are also electronic surplus sights, but they want about a dollar a foot.
Lastly, since you already have the coax solution parts, see how that works. My two cents. (even though looks like no more pennies.)
Give what you have a try first. I always prefer to run coax anyway.
Coax picks up less noise and has less loss per foot — compared to flat 300-ohm leads.
Actually, shielded twin lead 300 is the lowest noise and signal loss....Coax picks up less noise and has less loss per foot — compared to flat 300-ohm leads.
No, you don’t have to worry about the wire connections. Don’t overthink it. What you have should work OK
twiiii
Lunatic Member
Its about the frequency of the station you want to listen to on your system. Most simple dipole antennae are tuned for 100 MHZ. A longer would would be centered for a lower frequency. My favorite stations are centered around 89 Mhz. So a longer dipole would be a better solution. But I have a 10 element antennae type yagi in the attic aimed for the stations I prefer. A good antennae makes all the difference in the world.
ConradH
Lunatic Member
I'll second the roof or attic antenna. Most of our radio stations broadcast from the same location on a hill in the city, so a directional antenna can just be aimed there and left alone. Unfortunately, the best antenna in the world can't seem to improve the available program quality.
Just a consideration here, every time you convert from 75 to 300 there is a loss. Most tuners don't actually have a 300 ohm input, its natively 75 and there is a BALUN inside to give you those twin lead inputs when its natively a 75 ohm unbalanced.
so if you're using coax at any point to extend the connections, skip the 75 to 300 at the back of the set since its just going 300 back to 75 inside. Use the 75 ohm connection and eliminate some of the transformation losses.
so if you're using coax at any point to extend the connections, skip the 75 to 300 at the back of the set since its just going 300 back to 75 inside. Use the 75 ohm connection and eliminate some of the transformation losses.
I never knew that. The tuners I've owned had 75-ohm threaded inputs.