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First time poster:Constructive criticism (Frankenstein set up)

You should be cleaning the L pads. They're the controls behind those adjusting knobs on the front panel. There's one for the midrange and one for the tweeter.

You can access them through the woofer hole. Spray some Deoxit contact cleaner spray into their vent holes and rotate the knobs several dozen times. Probably fix your midrange problem.

Man, such a shame to lose those orange grills.
Thank you I will try that tomorrow after work it's too late for me to treat into them right now and I'm pretty sure who ever replaced the woofers used some tar like substance to seal them. Yet the left one farts at certain low frequencies
 
know nothing about crossovers except for that they're called that and they're kind of like the brain of the speaker

It might help to think of the crossover as a "frequency dividing network", which is what it is. It takes the full frequency signal coming from your amp and divides it into separate streams that are best suited for the specific drivers (high, mid, low) in the box. It uses capacitors and coils to separate the signal and resistors to reduce the signal strength where needed.

In it's simplest form in a 2-way speaker for example you could find a single cap in series with the tweeter (to set/limit the lowest frequency allowed to pass through to the tweeter) and a single coil in series with the woofer (to set/limit the highest frequency allowed to pass through to the woofer. If a driver plays louder than it's mate(s) it can be throttled a bit with a resistor to make the drivers all play at the same volume for a balanced sound.

It gets more and more complex from that point but that's the start. More complex crossovers adjust how fast the signal drops off between the dividing points, address phase issues, and can address peaks or bumps at a specific frequency point to smooth out the overall frequency response. Hope that this helps.

Cheers,
James
 
Figured I give everyone a look as to what I'm dealing with and seeing if anybody sees a problem I don't. I think they're resistors on the last picture but they look very corroded could that be my issue? And is it easy to repair?? Thanks:)

, Mike
 
Figured I give everyone a look as to what I'm dealing with and seeing if anybody sees a problem I don't. I think they're resistors on the last picture but they look very corroded could that be my issue? And is it easy to repair?? Thanks:)

, Mike
Hi Mike, I recently replaced woofers on a pair of L166a with 128H-1 drivers. I also replaced a midrange Lpad that was faulty which is most likely your issue. Try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner...do all of them while your at it. If that doesn't fix it the lpad can be bypassed to determine if it's bad. Google JBL L166A diagram and you will see how the Lpad is wired in.
 
Hi Mike, I recently replaced woofers on a pair of L166a with 128H-1 drivers. I also replaced a midrange Lpad that was faulty which is most likely your issue. Try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner...do all of them while your at it. If that doesn't fix it the lpad can be bypassed to determine if it's bad. Google JBL L166A diagram and you will see how the Lpad is wired in.
Just cleaned the l-pads 2 days ago.. no dice:(
Been meaning to take the midrange out of the right channel and see if I just got two bad le5-8's (the one in the left channel and the one off eBay.) But I'll be looking at this tonight:) thank you
 
Hi Mike, I recently replaced woofers on a pair of L166a with 128H-1 drivers. I also replaced a midrange Lpad that was faulty which is most likely your issue. Try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner...do all of them while your at it. If that doesn't fix it the lpad can be bypassed to determine if it's bad. Google JBL L166A diagram and you will see how the Lpad is wired in.
Are you the one who took the white coned woofers for 400 from me? :P haha:)
 
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