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fisher 500

stl2srb

New Member
Hello all, I have a fisher model 500, I know absolutely nothing about it. All I could find is it was one of the first made by fisher. Does anyone know anything about this receiver? It says on the brass face "the 500" and on the glass dial it under where is says fisher it says High fidelity receiver. Any info would be appreciated. thank you
 
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Any Threads with requests for valuations are required by the rules and Reg's (please read and understand them) to be placed in the "DOLLARS and SENSE" Forum.

As for the 500, it was made in the mid late 50's, is mono, and puts out about 30 IHC watts total. RMS Watts about 15 watts.
 
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OOps sorry didn't mean to break any rules, that was my first post. I will post it there. Thanks for the info.
 
The unsuffixed Fisher TA-500 was a mono receiver, and a pretty well-respected one at that.
Is this what you have?

Here's a photo from Mike Urban's (Urban Radio) website:

Fisher_TA500.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/urbanradio/Vintage.HiFi/JPEGs/Fisher_TA500.jpg

EDIT: Mike's got some info in PDFs on his site:

http://homepage.mac.com/urbanradio/Vintage.HiFi/JPEGs/details/Fisher-ad.pdf
http://homepage.mac.com/urbanradio/Vintage.HiFi/JPEGs/details/Fisher-TA500.pdf
 
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That is the one I have. Except for above where it says "The Fisher" mine says "The 500" on the brass, and under where it says "The Fisher" it says High Fidelity Receiver. I will set the whole unit up tomorrow or monday and post pictures as it is with a 4 cabinet setup with the center being a stephens 150 cx. Thank you for the info.
 
pictures of fisher 500

So I took a few pictures of my Fisher TA-500. What is the difference between the model that says "the 500" on the brass and the one that says it on the glass dial. Also if the receiver works does that mean that the bulbs are good or could one be bad. And if so how do you tell that it is bad by looking at it? Thank you
 

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Difference is probably model year.

As far as telling whether it works or not, without a history, you will need to do a few things to keep it from possibly self destructing when powering up due to it's age and the possibility that it has never been worked on before. You can remove the bulbs and check them with a DVM.

1.) Take the chassis out of the case, take a picture of the topside, then flip it over, remove the bottom plate and take a fairly close pic ofthe bottom side. POST THE PICS. This will allow us who have seen them up close and personal to check for new parts.

2.) Visually inspect the inside (TOP), and make sure ALL the tubes are in the sockets, verify the tube nomenclature with the manual or diagram. If missing DO NOT POWER IT UP. If incorrect, there is the possibility that the tube has been replaced with a substitute. Check NJ7P's site ( http://www.nj7p.org/Tube.php ) and type in the substitution tube, or even the original type and look at the sub listing.

2.) You will need a "VARIAC" to bring the voltage up slowly, while watching the unit for arcing, sparking, or parts that smoke. 10-20 volts every 15 minutes or so. Watch the tubes for arcing internally. The lights will either come on or not. If not they are probably blown. Check the can caps, and transformers for abnormal heating when powering up. There will be some voltage checks you will need to do so you'll need a Digital Volt meter (harbor freight has a cheap one that works ok.). There are voltages (>300VDC and AC) that can kill. Be extremely careful. I'm not trying to scare you off, but you need to be aware of this. If the transformers get overly hot, shut it down and take it to a shop.

Do NOT just plug it in and fire it up until it's been checked and verified that it's ok to do so.

From the looks of it, by the pics, it looks like it probably would be ok, BUT WHY TAKE THE CHANCE and possibly ruin a good thing.

Larry
 
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