Fisher President VIII Value?
Congratulations! As someone who also owns a President (IX), let me be one of the first to welcome you into the club! Yours seems all original, which if true is much better than the one I have. The problem with mine was that many of the original components failed, probably during regular use, and were replaced by what was later available.
As already noted, you have what is probably the best of the Fisher consoles. If all original, you get great tube amplification (mine was the first solid state) and are only missing Fisher's first remote control capability.
If you intend on keeping and using the console, then it is well worth putting whatever $$$$ and time are necessary to get it completely refurbished. Seek out the best, which means someone who has worked on a lot of Fisher tube gear. There are more than a few AK members who fit the bill if their backlog isn't too great.
I am not recommending that you send the whole console out. Rather, I am recommending that the tuner, preamp (control amp) and power amp can be removed, carefully packaged, and refurbished independently.
While the key components get professionally redone, there is a ton of information on the Fisher forum to help you with cleaning up the console itself. And you can take on the less-crazy refurb projects like the turntable, the speaker crossovers, and even the tape deck.
Your console has the potential to be an heirloom piece. And if properly restored can provide tremendous music for decades to come.
As already noted, you have what is probably the best of the Fisher consoles. If all original, you get great tube amplification (mine was the first solid state) and are only missing Fisher's first remote control capability.
If you intend on keeping and using the console, then it is well worth putting whatever $$$$ and time are necessary to get it completely refurbished. Seek out the best, which means someone who has worked on a lot of Fisher tube gear. There are more than a few AK members who fit the bill if their backlog isn't too great.
I am not recommending that you send the whole console out. Rather, I am recommending that the tuner, preamp (control amp) and power amp can be removed, carefully packaged, and refurbished independently.
While the key components get professionally redone, there is a ton of information on the Fisher forum to help you with cleaning up the console itself. And you can take on the less-crazy refurb projects like the turntable, the speaker crossovers, and even the tape deck.
Your console has the potential to be an heirloom piece. And if properly restored can provide tremendous music for decades to come.
You flew the "Q@^&#"?? Damn son, you got BIG BRASS one's. My younger brother was a AvET crew chief on an Intruder back in the Early 80's. VA-65 had some old birds back then. He told me his was built in 1964, and was flying only by the skin of it's teeth. At least you've got some speed now with the Growler.
Teal'c. Send them down to the Eng off. for a bucket of live steam, or to the Supply off.(chop) for 50' of chow line, to the Electronics off. for a can of Relative bearing grease or spare tube electrons(especially when everything is soilid state), or detail during the watch to keep an eye out for the Mail Buoy (using Toy Binoculars, up on the signal bridge)
BRW: It should be OK. With you going to Az in a couple months, humidity isn't a problem. Now if you lived in Md. where the humidity is usually near triple digits, I'd say leave the cabinet outside in the garage and box up the internals. The humidity isn't going to hurt anything as they are cadmium plated. They are bolted to the framing of the cabinet so they aren't going anywhere. I would tighten down the shipping screws on the turntable if you haven't already done that (lift off the platter on the Miracord and you'll see two holes in the chassis, one at 11:30 and one at 5:30 with the wood underneath (and possibly a hole.) they may have a captive nut underneath or a plain hole for a wood screw. Figure out which one, get the screws at the hardware store and install them. They will pull the turntable hard against the wood plinth. Then lock down the tonearm, and remove the headshell (big round finger-nut under and behind the headshell and the counter weight. Loosen the nut and the headshell pulls straight out. Put the whole headshell with cartridge in a cottom wad padded box and tape to the turntable. Do the same with the counter weight. Tape up the power cords inside behind the amp, preamp or tuner. If tubes are easily accessible, remove them, marking them as to location with the manual, wrap in cotton wadding, and box them.(You'd be surprisde at how fast they learn to walk when you're not around. Place box inside unit and tape down. If the slide out shelves for the turntable and R2R have a captive nut on the back of the shelf, determine the size of the nut and get a couple of screws and flat washers to fit. screw down from back. These will keep the shelves from sliding out at in-opportune times, and enable you to secure tubes, headshells, etc. inside. Run straps front to back to secure the doors (use towels on the corners), and it's ready for damned near anything GOV'T contractor PCS movers can dish out.
Teal'c. Send them down to the Eng off. for a bucket of live steam, or to the Supply off.(chop) for 50' of chow line, to the Electronics off. for a can of Relative bearing grease or spare tube electrons(especially when everything is soilid state), or detail during the watch to keep an eye out for the Mail Buoy (using Toy Binoculars, up on the signal bridge)
BRW: It should be OK. With you going to Az in a couple months, humidity isn't a problem. Now if you lived in Md. where the humidity is usually near triple digits, I'd say leave the cabinet outside in the garage and box up the internals. The humidity isn't going to hurt anything as they are cadmium plated. They are bolted to the framing of the cabinet so they aren't going anywhere. I would tighten down the shipping screws on the turntable if you haven't already done that (lift off the platter on the Miracord and you'll see two holes in the chassis, one at 11:30 and one at 5:30 with the wood underneath (and possibly a hole.) they may have a captive nut underneath or a plain hole for a wood screw. Figure out which one, get the screws at the hardware store and install them. They will pull the turntable hard against the wood plinth. Then lock down the tonearm, and remove the headshell (big round finger-nut under and behind the headshell and the counter weight. Loosen the nut and the headshell pulls straight out. Put the whole headshell with cartridge in a cottom wad padded box and tape to the turntable. Do the same with the counter weight. Tape up the power cords inside behind the amp, preamp or tuner. If tubes are easily accessible, remove them, marking them as to location with the manual, wrap in cotton wadding, and box them.(You'd be surprisde at how fast they learn to walk when you're not around. Place box inside unit and tape down. If the slide out shelves for the turntable and R2R have a captive nut on the back of the shelf, determine the size of the nut and get a couple of screws and flat washers to fit. screw down from back. These will keep the shelves from sliding out at in-opportune times, and enable you to secure tubes, headshells, etc. inside. Run straps front to back to secure the doors (use towels on the corners), and it's ready for damned near anything GOV'T contractor PCS movers can dish out.
Saint Johnny
Bon Ton Roule
superdog
AK Member
Wow! I'm not real knowledgable about tube consoles but there are only a few I would let into my house(size considerations) and this is one of them. I would assume there are very few of these left and being talked about as Holy Grail material I would either give this the full restore it deserves move it on to someone who will.
Nothing. We're just messin with yer head ref air-Farce plane drivers vs. NAVAL Aviators.Hey what did I say?
Did you know that Air Farce ground crews do their semi annual P.T. qualifications on a bicycle? No running, but they have to ride down the length of the runway and back below a set time. Makes sense in a way, but everyone else has to run.
Superdog. The 1963 President VIII Model 8000 was the LAST ALL TUBE President made by FISHER. The 1964 President IX Model 9000 was basically the same unit except for the AMP. It was the Largest Hybrid Amplifier FISHER Made. And there ain't too many of them. The Hybrid was used until the end of the 1966 year and then receivers were used.
Considering that the President was 1.) FISHER's TOTL unit, 2.) cost was equivalent to a Chevy Impala SS, 3.) not a whole lot of people had that kind of $$ for them, I would think that they could have been made to order for the most part. As an example (and a SWAG) For every President, lets say 50 Custom Electra's would have been made. The flagship of the line got the best of everything FISHER built. And I would venture to say FISHER's profit margin wasn't a lot on the President. I've only seen 3-4 1963 Presidents in the last 10 years, with the majority in the last 2 years. As you go down the line the units become more evident on E-PREY, CL, Worthpoint, Kiji, etc., with the Custom Electra being the most prevalent. With today's generation "downsizing" and having "smart" phones welded to their hands, large consoles are an anachronism. Most often Baby Boomers with Large Houses are re-living their youth, and the consoles are part of that revisitation of their youth.
And yeah, I'm filling in for TheRED1 when he's not here, as much as I can.
Considering that the President was 1.) FISHER's TOTL unit, 2.) cost was equivalent to a Chevy Impala SS, 3.) not a whole lot of people had that kind of $$ for them, I would think that they could have been made to order for the most part. As an example (and a SWAG) For every President, lets say 50 Custom Electra's would have been made. The flagship of the line got the best of everything FISHER built. And I would venture to say FISHER's profit margin wasn't a lot on the President. I've only seen 3-4 1963 Presidents in the last 10 years, with the majority in the last 2 years. As you go down the line the units become more evident on E-PREY, CL, Worthpoint, Kiji, etc., with the Custom Electra being the most prevalent. With today's generation "downsizing" and having "smart" phones welded to their hands, large consoles are an anachronism. Most often Baby Boomers with Large Houses are re-living their youth, and the consoles are part of that revisitation of their youth.
And yeah, I'm filling in for TheRED1 when he's not here, as much as I can.
superdog
AK Member
The large house is the key here.I love consoles but they just take up too much room.You want because they represent a fine money no object desire just like the TOTL Cadillac in the driveway back then.I'd let this in though space be damned.Superdog. The 1963 President VIII Model 8000 was the LAST ALL TUBE President made by FISHER. The 1964 President IX Model 9000 was basically the same unit except for the AMP. It was the Largest Hybrid Amplifier FISHER Made. And there ain't too many of them. The Hybrid was used until the end of the 1966 year and then receivers were used.
Considering that the President was 1.) FISHER's TOTL unit, 2.) cost was equivalent to a Chevy Impala SS, 3.) not a whole lot of people had that kind of $$ for them, I would think that they could have been made to order for the most part. As an example (and a SWAG) For every President, lets say 50 Custom Electra's would have been made. The flagship of the line got the best of everything FISHER built. And I would venture to say FISHER's profit margin wasn't a lot on the President. I've only seen 3-4 1963 Presidents in the last 10 years, with the majority in the last 2 years. As you go down the line the units become more evident on E-PREY, CL, Worthpoint, Kiji, etc., with the Custom Electra being the most prevalent. With today's generation "downsizing" and having "smart" phones welded to their hands, large consoles are an anachronism. Most often Baby Boomers with Large Houses are re-living their youth, and the consoles are part of that revisitation of their youth.
And yeah, I'm filling in for TheRED1 when he's not here, as much as I can.
Leland47
Super Member
The big tubes (octals) have a Bakelite keyway and CANNOT be rocked back a forth! That could break the Bakelite.
Easiest method is to squirt a small shot of electrical lubricant under the tube. That can be very tight after being in there 50+ years. This makes em easy to pull straight up.
Electrical lube is available at Home Depot ....or an auto parts store.
Gorgeous amp!!
Welcome to AK.
My Dad was a Naval Aviator also. He was a flight instructor at Pensacola...back in the day. He also flew in the Berlin Airlift....
Easiest method is to squirt a small shot of electrical lubricant under the tube. That can be very tight after being in there 50+ years. This makes em easy to pull straight up.
Electrical lube is available at Home Depot ....or an auto parts store.
Gorgeous amp!!
Welcome to AK.
My Dad was a Naval Aviator also. He was a flight instructor at Pensacola...back in the day. He also flew in the Berlin Airlift....