• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics sl1300-1400-1500 mk2 series

If I may back things up a bit, what is the known cueing/arm lift problem? I have a SL-1500 and when I have the tone arm completely raised, everything is fine, but when I start to lower it, it just completely falls. I can't balance it at a medium height. Is that the problem everyone else has or is this something different? Thanks.
 
Tom Selleck said:
If I may back things up a bit, what is the known cueing/arm lift problem? I have a SL-1500 and when I have the tone arm completely raised, everything is fine, but when I start to lower it, it just completely falls. I can't balance it at a medium height. Is that the problem everyone else has or is this something different? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yours is a completely different problem. and your table is a different model. the cuing problem talked about in this thread is the plastic piece that controls the cuing which do to a bad design broke after a couple of months of use back when these MKII tables were first introduced.

Your problem sounds to me like you need to replace the silicone in the cuing that controls the piston up and down motion.
 
I just picked up a cheap SL-1500MK2 and am curious about doing this repair. How many folks here have done it? The reason I ask is because it doesn't look all that simple. Do you have to completely remove the tonearm? Is the part accessible from the top or only the bottom?

Before I shell out for the part and start tearing up the turntable, I want to make sure I'm not in over my head. Thanks!
 
Hi, I have made a thread about this issue and how to fix it - without a spare part - some years ago. It shows all the details of disassembly.

It takes a bit of work to take things apart. First time I had to start it, I was frustrated. But as soon I started and had the plinth apart, it was fairly simple to remove the tonearm and then take things apart in it.

Since you have the 1500 - manual version - you don't have to worry about correctly engaging the gears for the automation mechanism.
 
Not recently, but do have a SL-1300 MK2 mostly apart right now to upgrade to add 78 rpm option. Not too hard, just take your time and ask questions if you get stuck.

One warning, one of the screws that holds the mounting plate has a small spring and pin that holds the screw captive that loosens the VTA adjustment. If you don't recover this pin and spring after removing the screw, you will probably loose the piece. (Don't ask me how I know!) See parts TA10-3 a TA10-4 and screws TA25-3 in the service manual for details.
 
SDG0407 said:
I am gonna concentrate on the part i designed since dissassembly and assembly of the turntable to reach this part is already explained in other forums. Plus the maintenance documents are also available on the internet.

First thing to do is cut this little edge in the picture below away. It is a remnant of 3d printing tolerances etc:
edge.jpg


Second thing to do is to smoothen the ramps where the knob of the cueing piston rides in. (see the angled ramps in the picture above) The surface finish of the 3D printed part is rougher than the original. This is because of the nature of 3D printing in this material.
Best results i got is with a very light sanding with very fine sand paper + adding graphite (dry lubricant) to the ramps by rubbing on it with a soft pencil (graphite, don't use color pencils:nono:)

Third thing to do is to see how the metal ring will fit in the new part.
The metal ring needs the be press fitted into the new part. Some light sanding of the hole of the new part helps to get it over the ring if there is too much resistance. You can sand the ridge in the hole of the part down a bit too but don't overdo because it keeps everything in place. Remember it just needs to fit snuggly together, too much pressure is not good because it will break, too little is also not good because it will come loose.
BEFORE YOU PRESS FIT THEM TOGETHER MAKE SURE THE GROOVE IN THE RING IS ALIGNED CORRECTLY TO THE RIDGE IN THE PART. Because the groove/ridge is not in the middle. There is no second try when you do it wrong.

Last thing to do is check the clearances when the tonearm is reassembled. Make sure nothing touches the part when you move the tonearm left to right while the cue is either up or down.
Click to expand...
I recently repaired my SL-1300Mk2 and found it helpful to use a small C-clamp to help seat the old bearing into the new 3D printed Cue Arm. I obtained the 3D part from:

Sigurd De Gruyter | 3D Printing Service | i.materialise

i.materialise.com i.materialise.com
They carry both types.
 

Attachments

  • Cue Arm Bushing Install.jpg
    Cue Arm Bushing Install.jpg
    103.4 KB · Views: 9
The link doesn't take you directly to the specific 3D parts but if you search the shop with "Technics" you can find it/them. I could use one for a 1500MK2 I have in the garage but unfortunately they charge €19.56 for 1 but have a €40 minimum order. I don't need 3 of them. :(

I also have to take it apart to see which one I need. Or just order both (plus 1) and be covered either way.

Thanks for the pdf attachment. :)
 
Anyone replaced the part lately from the supplier above and have a spare? or an alternative source that you can purchase just the one from in the uk? or if I order 2 to cover the minimum order cost would like to buy one from me ?
 
Last edited:
Montycat , you only need to purchase 2 as it automatically bumps the price up to the minimum, but still £51 inc post and vat .
 
BTW I just did this repair last year. Really nice part. seems not to be available anymore though.
 
Last edited:
Hello, I need one of this part. Where can i find it. I visited the link above but can't find anything there. Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom