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Fixed cueing on my Technics SL-1400 MK2- pics->

A question for those of you who have worked on these tables- I have a 1300mk2 that I had Joel repair 4 or 5 years ago, he fixed the cue lift and everything worked great for about a year. The lift still works however it lost it's damping so I have to drop the lever slowly to avoid damaging the stylus. Can anyone tell me what's involved in replacing the damping fluid on these? If I have to open it up completely I may continue to use it as is, or if it's less involved then I'd like to fix it. I looked through the service manual and didn't find any reference to it. TIA.
 
Hakaplan's ingenious method is to simply "squish" down as much as you can from the top.

It worked well enough for me.:D

The heavier 500,000 wt may be easier for this method.

It is a bit messy.

Try it !!!:thmbsp:
 
I've been standing by, watching this thread not wanting to discourage the efforts.
I think the piece is Delrin or one of it's relatives, we encountered it in a lot of stuff when I had a repair shop, it is extremely contrary stuff to deal with. First, nothing bonds successfully to it, nothing. Websearch "Adhesive for Delrin".
Second, it is long-term dimensionally unstable, it shrinks. This means if something rigid is cast into it (like a metal bushing or a ceramic pulse magnet) or it is cast into/onto something rigid (such as glides on a tape transport plate), there WILL inevitably be trouble sometime somehow down the line.
The wire-wrap and epoxy-fill approach MAY be the only possible solution to this problem, I wish you success finding one.
 
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Pio1980 said:
I've been standing by, watching this thread not wanting to discourage the efforts.
I think the piece is Delrin or one of it's relatives, we encountered it in a lot of stuff when I had a repair shop, it is extremely contrary stuff to deal with. First, nothing bonds successfully to it, nothing. Websearch "Adhesive for Delrin".
Second, it is long-term dimensionally unstable, it shrinks. This means if something rigid is cast into it (like a metal bushing or a ceramic pulse magnet) or it is cast into/onto something rigid (such as glides on a tape transport plate), there WILL inevitably be trouble sometime somehow down the line.
The wire-wrap and epoxy-fill approach MAY be the only possible solution to this problem, I wish you success finding one.
Click to expand...

There are actually two variants with different properties. A white one and a black one. I believe the black one is the later variant. In my experience nothing successfully bound to either so I ended up using a wire reinforcement. The white one has a lower melting point and can be "mended" somewhat with heat. I found this out when attempting to solder my reinforcing wire. I was able to use this to my advantage.
 
Excellent post, and excellent repair.

I've also done repairs like this to other tables.

Another thing I do- I soak thin strips of fine gauze or cloth, soaked in resin- this acts as a lightweight version of a repair one would do with fiberglass cloth and fiberglass resin.

I've lightly scuffed/scored the surface of the part in need of repair, applied a very thin layer of this cloth soaked in resin (thicker, if allowed), and let it dry. A dremel cleans up any bumps, lumps, or "fingers".

I do this in conjunction with a repair with JB Weld or other epoxies, not by itself.

Occasionally, I've also used fine wire to bond the pieces together- almost like a metal suture. This was done on a Pioneer arm base I repaired, I cannot recall which model, but owned by AKer ReSound.
 
Two months after the pin was pulled. No issues to report. LOTS of records as you can see. Now sporting the AT20SLa.

TechnicsSL1400MK22mo.jpg
 
I have been watching this series of turntables and this thread for a while.

Great news and excellent confirmation of your skill and ingenuity!:thmbsp:

Next time one of these shows up locally.........:D
 
Big Bill said:
Living dangerously are we Jim? :D
Click to expand...

Peddle on the floor, power-shifting, full lock slide with tires screaming and my hair on fire.

Bet your ass!

skullburn2.jpg


Balifly said:
I have been watching this series of turntables and this thread for a while.

Great news and excellent confirmation of your skill and ingenuity!:thmbsp:

Next time one of these shows up locally.........:D
Click to expand...

Thanks, Balifly. I hope it stays together. Still a chance the plastic can give up in the future. That is why I intend to keep posting for better or worse.

Now go find that great deal! :thmbsp:
 
Month 3. All is well with the cueing. It needs another application of damping fluid, I wasn't sure how much to apply the first time.
 
Very good and an excellent thread. I recently recovered my long lost SL-D303 that my oldest brother had absconded with years ago. He claimed that he didn't know of its whereabouts. I finally learned why. The poor thing had been smashed! The dustcover was in shards, the metal headshell was broken in half and the cuing mechanism was broken. Many hours later, I had the cuing assembly mended, the mechanism re-lubricated and the signal leads replaced. I got several items from Kevin @ KAB and it's back to almost new again. Here's a pic of it's guts post-repair...

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