• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Fixed cueing on my Technics SL-1400 MK2- pics->

Have you tackled your SL-1300Mks cue arm repair project? I recently picked up a couple of Technics tables; a SL-1900 and another SL-1300Mk2. The SL-1600 only needed a power supply re-cap. The SL-1300Mk2 I just purchased off of eBay today and I know that it has the same cue arm problem.
I still haven't. With a full schedule as an immigration attorney and a full gig schedule as a musician, I haven't had the time to put aside to get to all the repairs at once. But, things are lightening up starting midweek, so I'm hoping soon. I have to say that it's a great deck even in manual mode, so the fact that I can still use it lessens the urgency of repair, but I still have a twinge of slacking every time I spin a record....
 
I still haven't. With a full schedule as an immigration attorney and a full gig schedule as a musician, I haven't had the time to put aside to get to all the repairs at once. But, things are lightening up starting midweek, so I'm hoping soon. I have to say that it's a great deck even in manual mode, so the fact that I can still use it lessens the urgency of repair, but I still have a twinge of slacking every time I spin a record....
I take it that you have disabled the "Auto-Return" function; if not bad things can happen with the stylus being dragged across the surface of the end of play.
 
I take it that you have disabled the "Auto-Return" function; if not bad things can happen with the stylus being dragged across the surface of the end of play.
I have finally taken the plunge, including recapping the main board (that's done), but I have taken apart the arm assembly all the way down to the plate that covers the broken part. However, there are two screws that just won't budge. Any idea about how to get them out of there? I'm even using Japanese philips head screwdrivers and I also tried vice grips to grip the edges of the screws. So close!
 
I have finally taken the plunge, including recapping the main board (that's done), but I have taken apart the arm assembly all the way down to the plate that covers the broken part. However, there are two screws that just won't budge. Any idea about how to get them out of there? I'm even using Japanese philips head screwdrivers and I also tried vice grips to grip the edges of the screws. So close!
I used a good wire cutter to bite on the screw head.
 
I have finally taken the plunge, including recapping the main board (that's done), but I have taken apart the arm assembly all the way down to the plate that covers the broken part. However, there are two screws that just won't budge. Any idea about how to get them out of there? I'm even using Japanese philips head screwdrivers and I also tried vice grips to grip the edges of the screws. So close!
I guess I was lucky in that regard with no problems in removing any of the screws in the two SL-1300Mk2 which I repaired. I have heard that some have had success in removing screws with the application of heat from a small tip soldering iron.
 
Back
Top Bottom