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Fixing my late grandfather's Dual 1019

The motor is not difficult to open up. I recall they have bronze bushings for bearings. Qtips, Iso alcohol to clean the 50 year old grease and oil out. Clean the shafts real good too. A light oil for the bearings. assemble in reverse order, mark the halves before taking apart so the they go back together the same orientation.
 
The motor is not difficult to open up. I recall they have bronze bushings for bearings. Qtips, Iso alcohol to clean the 50 year old grease and oil out. Clean the shafts real good too. A light oil for the bearings. assemble in reverse order, mark the halves before taking apart so the they go back together the same orientation.
Thank you! Which oil should be used?
 
Thank you! Which oil should be used?
The link that was already posted earlier:


Takes you completely through (start to finish) of a servicing of a Dual idler motor. Including oils.

Well worth a peruse......heck. download it and print it so you can have it right there to reference while doing the job.

An excerpt from that doc:

" Contrary to widespread belief, 10W30 motor oil is not a good re-placement for the original Shell Clavus 17 or Isoflex PDP 40 used in the Dual motor. Do not use 10W30; it is far too thick! For this reas-on, use light, non-detergent and non-gumming machine oil such as the oil used in sewing machines. Check out the material data sheet before use! 10W30 or 10W40 may be used in other non-critical places"

Audiovault sells an assortment of oil in needle applicators that meet spec. Here's my supply that came from Audiovault:

fr_4442.jpg

fr_4443.jpg

That's actually a double order. IOW, I bought two packages to have extras.

The Alvania grease (modern day: Shell Gadus grease) you can source from nearly any auto parts store.

You can source it all locally if you know what you're looking for and where to get it, but Audiovault's kit is just convenient.

That's my home built maint stand by the way:

fr_4451.jpg

Makes it super easy to service dual tables and makes sure you don't break things flipping it back and forth while working on it.

The wooden DIY one that was posted earlier in the thread is well worth taking the time to build.
 
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The mineralic oil used in the sinter bushings of the motor is very similar to the hydraulic oil HLP-22. I also use that stuff in the motors of my 502, 1228 and 1229 (and Lenco L78) even when Dual used a synthetic Klüber oil in them.

First of all: the lower motor bearing is the important one! It has a small brass plate lying in it on which the tip of the motor spindle rotates. This thing will have an indention from the tip. Turn that plate around so the tip can rotate on an unindented surface. I polish that plate (but be cautious when cleaning the tip! It is plated!).

The bearings can be filled with the fresh HLP-22 in different ways. Vacuum method, but that without the proper equipment - well ... One method some makers of the bearings recommend (ca. 90% refilling grade) is the cook it - cool it down method. After a thorough cleaning and drying the bearings can be put into a small bath with the oil. Bake it for several hours in the bath at about 100, 110 degrees Celsius, then let the oil bath with the bearings cool down. Again several hours. This way the bearings should be nearly as new.

The old Duals must get cleaned and lubricated properly! These are decade old machines! They were never intended to get used for half a century without any tlc. My 1019 is cleary my favourite turntable. With an ADC brick it oozes musicality.

Ah yes - the spindle bearing! For the shaft tacky oil, for the ball bearing Shell Gadus 100V2 (220 also works). A thoroughly cleaned original ball bearing (ultrasonic for example) of any of these Dual changers is whisper quiet. Well, with several of these I use ceramic balls instead of the original ones. Are they quieter? I don´t know.
 
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