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Fluke Multimeter Decision- New or Used?

nielsvanm2

Active Member
Time to upgrade from the cheapy multimeter I've got now. I can get new Flukes at 25% off (Canadian, which should bring them near or slightly better than US pricing). So I was about to decide between a 115 and 117, and then found out that they're made in China. I'd prefer an American made unit, so now the decision is between a new 115/117 to get the warranty and assurance that it hasn't been beat up, or a used higher end unit off eBay.

For used, I started off looking at the 87 V (seems to be recommended a lot) which I should be able to get for a bit over my self-imposed $175 all-in limit. Then I've come across recommendations for 177/179 and also 77 IV. They're cheaper, which is good. I haven't even gotten around to comparing features of those units- I'm assuming they would all do more than I need as a real beginner. I would like the meter to grow with my knowledge though.

One feature I kind of like on the 117 is the VoltAlert- I feel that could be useful on daily around the house jobs.

So, the real question is:

Used USA Fluke (unknown history, no warranty, but presumably better quality)- assuming 170 series is USA made...

or

New Chinese Fluke (3 yr warranty, new box satisfaction, includes new leads, and I can get VoltAlert if I want to pay for the 117).

Thoughts would be appreciated!
 
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I just got the 115 and its a great meter. Does basically everything ill ever need except capacitance biutI replace all caps anyway. Got the 114 last year and found it to be lacking in features for the price.
 
If you don't need portable, used bench ones are great and more sensitive.
I have a 6,5 digits Keithley which was calibrated prior to my purchase and I really like it. It's an underrated quality brand, and I think made in USA (or Germany since I bought it from Germany 2 years ago).
 
I am looking for portable, I'll use it around the house too. My concern with the 110 series now is that I've seen them mentioned a few times as electricians meters. They don't read milliamps (I think that was it), and so were deemed inappropriate for electronics. Does that only apply to new electronics? Do our old pieces not demand such sensitive tools?

Thanks
 
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I love my Fluke 87. You can always send a used one back to the factory calibration shop for a tune up. However, this will be over your budget - don't know how strict you are with your budget. There are other good brands, should you take your eye off of the Fluke, that have the same features as the model 87.
 
I'm pretty set on Fluke. I know there are other good products out there- it will just involve more research whereas I like the blanket assumption that Fluke is good.

Also, my research suggests the 115 does measure capacitance. Am I missing something?
 
Heck, I'm still using my Fluke 77 that I bought new decades ago. We use some newer Chinese ones at work and they're fine too. IMO, if you need a C-only feature you can get the Tenma C meter for like $30. The important features on a portable DVM are a good diode check mode with a beep and a lower range of about 300 mV. Those are what I use, other than basic volts and ohms, about 95% of the time. When you get a good portable, then shop around for a bench meter if you want one. There are some great Keithley, Fluke and HP bench meters that can be had cheap, but as said above it's a bit of a crap shoot so don't pay too much without a guarantee.

For bench meters I really like the Fluke 8050A for audio as it has some useful dB functions and good bandwidth. On the downside it's prone to some service issues and needs to be checked out carefully. The HP 3478 is a nice basic 5.5 digit meter than can sometimes be had for a reasonable price. There are some "workhorse" meters I like, but they're huge and probably only for the test equipment nut cases. The HP 3455A is super accurate and stable, 6.5 digits, and usually sells cheap. There are all flavors of the Fluke 8xxx series like the 8505a, similar comments to the 3455A but can be complicated and hard to calibrate. Many of the above are true RMS meters, as are many handhelds, but I think the importance of that is way overrated for just about everybody. I like it but rarely actually need it, and that's over many years of design work.
 
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I too use a Fluke 77. Lifetime guarantee. I send it back every two years in the original box and it comes back calibrated and clean.
 
i love my used Fluke 111. haven't really needed more at this point. i should send it in for a calibration one of these days though.
 
I would second the Fluke 8050A as a great choice for a dedicated bench meter. I've had mine for years and other than new backup batteries and a calibration it's been trouble free.

If you watch on eBay they usually sell for around $90.00. Try to find one that comes from a working environment. Then get a good set of test leads and probes.
 
At my day job we have 50 or so fluke 87's. They're used all day, every day and rarely fail. I've traveled the planet with an 87 in the worst environments and never had a failure. The 170 series are also good.

There are other brands out there that are fine. The cheaper ones don't have the quality feel in the rotary switch that the Flukes do. I feel very strongly that a true RMS meter is a must for reading voltage and current.
 



Interestingly this seller has posted earlier explaining his move to the 115 from the 114, so I think I'm going to jump right to the 115. It's certainly a good deal on the 114 though. The 114 has no diode test, and no cap measurement.

I'm still wondering how important low current measurement is. The 11X series measure down to 1 mA, the higher end units measure down to .01 mA. In this vintage audio world is less than 1 mA relevant? Or is that more computer level current?

Also, I'm assuming that I would not be able to just buy a used Fluke off eBay and send it in to be calibrated for free under the lifetime warranty? I'm guessing that they charge for calibrations?

And looking again at my USA vs China consideration, it seems that the 110 and 170 series are made overseas, but the 87V is still USA.
 
i bought a used fluke 87 a while ago. i really like it but once in a while the pushbuttons do not work quite right. if i would have the option now i would buy a new 87V. i like the idea of having one that is calibrated and working properly vs. something that is used and you have to pay for calibration if you are unsure about it. if the 87V is indeed made in the US than that would be another vote to buy that one versus a used 117. and btw i am not sure if fluke covers calibration under lifetime warranty. i think you still have to pay for it but i might be wrong.
 
Rarely do you need to measure current. I wouldn't worry about it. The specs on the 115 shows an AC voltage measurement only to 1khz whereas the 87 goes out to 20khz.
 
I have a Fluke 77 that I bought used in 1991. Only problem I've had with it is I had to replace the 9V battery once.

YMMV...
 
Rarely do you need to measure current. I wouldn't worry about it. The specs on the 115 shows an AC voltage measurement only to 1khz whereas the 87 goes out to 20khz.

That depends - I use mine in an industrial environment, full of 3-phase AC motors and circuits. I use my amp clamp all of the time for high current.
 
I have an original Fluke 77 and it's a great meter to use! Bought it used and it's been great. Bought a Fluke 27/FM from a member on here and it's been a great meter, too.


For bench meters I really like the Fluke 8050A for audio as it has some useful dB functions and good bandwidth. On the downside it's prone to some service issues and needs to be checked out carefully. The HP 3478 is a nice basic 5.5 digit meter than can sometimes be had for a reasonable price.

Hey--I've got a small pile of those Fluke meter languishing in the back corner of a lab (in a variety of states of disrepair). Maybe I should give 'em a second look. :scratch2:

Gotta watch out for that HP--not sure how critical the cal data is, but I know that my 3468 lost it since it's stored in RAM and required a battery to maintain the data. Got mine for $25+shipping from eBay and it arrived with a dead battery.
 
That depends - I use mine in an industrial environment, full of 3-phase AC motors and circuits. I use my amp clamp all of the time for high current.

To clarify, for bench use on audio equipment, rarely does one need to measure current. Some manufacturers suggest to measure bias current in output stages. I prefer to use a 1.0 ohm or .10 ohm resistor in series with the circuit and then measure the voltage drop across the resistor. Many meters have been damaged by people who forgot that the probes were plugged into the currrent input. When this is done and the user attempts to read voltage, either fuses blow or the meter is damaged and also possibly the equipment being tested.
 
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