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Ford I6-300 Anyone?

Bratwurst7s

In The Frying Pan
Subscriber
Since they came up in costerdock's thread that there are a few Ford inline 6 300ci fans here I thought it might be worth a thread.

I got into straight sixes when I bought my old 1966 F250 4x4. When I bought it it had a somewhat tired 240ci six in it with Clifford dual exaust. Later I built a 300 using a '77 block with a '68 240ci head.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=7398831&postcount=110

It was never very pretty, I ended up selling it before I got as far as fixing up the body. But over the years that I had it it was well restored electricly and mechanicly.

Anyone else?

Cheers,
James
 
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I dropped $1000 on speed parts for my 300. I still get 10 mpg with less horsepower than a V-8. It needs more money and time. Sort of a bane for me. My dad has an '86 F250 with a 460 4barrel. It gets 14 mpg. :tears:

Your '66 4x4 is (was) awesome.
 
When I was restoring trucks my denouement was the 81 F100....it was sitting behind a small factory in Huntington PA someone told me about it, for 2 years. put in a gallon of gas to mix what was in the tank, gave it a 5 min jump and it started running. $300 and mine.

For a PA truck the only rust it had was 2 baseball holes in the bed, down low in the rear by the bumper corners. You can find my project page on the FTE website.

I liked it, it was fun to drive, but as I worked it I improved it. I added PB - because it had MB, the bolt circle was 5.5 on 5 so it took the HD calipers....I added a spare 1990 booster. Added yeaar correct PS pump and cooler and used a 1990 box since they were the same for like 20 years

The rear end was a 2.50:1 open 9 incher on 4700lb springs. I had a 3L55 8.8 on 5450 springs, that was a 5 hours job by myself and I used the aluminum driveshaft from the donor. Totally redid the front end - all bushings, kings, etc and a fellow FTE'er from the left coast had the year correct 2wd sway set up, so I added front and rear sways - now it handled.

A set of van wheels back when you got 4/$100 and it looked sweet. The radiator was too small to support a fan clutch so I found a NoS 85ish unit for an I6 with everthing even modified the radiator support, then in a boneyard next to the NS tracks near tyrone PA I found year correct pulleys and parts to run the newer water pump, fan clutch and spin the air pump and water at the right speed.

All emissions worked, I rebuilt the carter one evening at the kitchen table. When I first got it, it was the SROD where 4th was unusable in PA - after the gear change (and I found the speedo drive gear online) that 122hp cranked. Other things like finding a year correct dash unit with the tach - since I had gauges already it was a drop in - and other stuff like carpet, stereo, speakers, rear slider etc....

I scoured a lot of southern boneyard for better mirrors, front bumper etc. I was setting up for the 4bbl/cam/intake setup. A friend of mine owns Vintage Exotics LLC and bought a warehouse of parts from LA, since he only does ferrarris and stuff the other stuff was for sale - in the box was the 390 and the intake! But before I could start, a 17year old kid who was watching my project page for year, got together the $$ to buy the truck at my price (it was reasonable - I drove this nearly daily for 5+ years) He showed up with his brother because he could not drive a stick.

So I put him onto my friend and he was taking auto shop classes so as a project they rebuilt the motor, added the cam, intake, carb etc and the duals using an EFI dual Y set I had. I even located for him the 83 mustang gt 4bbl egr - it lets you use a carb heater and EGR which is UTTERLY needed on the I6 in northern climates!

I lost touch with him so I hope he kept it greasy side down...it had bedliner, hitch (i pulled a 4000lb camper with it at times) cap, I rebuilt the SROD - you name it.

that truck proved my maxim I have for fords since I got into the biz: if it bolts, it fits. You can 'franken-truck' a fords running gear and innards more so than any other make. Oh I forget, I even found the dang factory dash clock in a WV boneyard and the harness was inside the dash!
 
When I was restoring trucks... that truck proved my maxim I have for fords since I got into the biz: if it bolts, it fits. You can 'franken-truck' a fords running gear and innards more so than any other make. Oh I forget, I even found the dang factory dash clock in a WV boneyard and the harness was inside the dash!

Very nice! You got much farther along than I ever did with the body. As far as motor goes, I started with a 240 that was stock except for a set of Clifford headders and dual exaust.

My first step in modding was seeing a Clifford intake manifold sitting on the office floor at a junkyard with a $75 price tag. After snapping that up and seeing that it had a 2bbl adaptor plate I bought a used 350cfm 2bbl for it. That setup made a small but nice improvement in performance, and another small improvement in milage. To put that in perspective the truck had 4.56 gears in the rear end and 4.55 in the front and weighed in at about 5000lbs empty. I was getting 9-10 mpg. :thumbsdn: With the new intake and 2bbl I was getting around 12mpg.

I found a thrashed '77 F-150 with a 300 for $250, pulled the motor and sold the carcass for $100. The head turned out to be cracked but the block was good. I had the crank journals allign honed, the cylinders bored 0.010", and the deck squared/shaved. Finding pistons that I liked was a long search but I found some nice ones made by Silvolite. Made especially for HD truck use they are hypereutectic and have a quench step cast in that matches the quench area of the head, similar to Fords later high swirl motors. Matched with a 240 head with 69cc cumbustion chambers you get a CR of 8.7-1, about as high as I wanted to go for a truck without having to worry about detonation. Page 38 of the Silvolite catalog, part # 3118H. I used a Felpro head gasket.

http://www.uempistons.com/catalogs/silvolite_catalog.pdf

For a cam I chose Isky's 256° (P/N 331256). A relatively high lift of 0.450 for the duration, and wide 112° lobe centers. Kit form with hyd lifters and dual springs. I also bought Isky cro-mo pushrods.

I put a lot of work into the head. Being a '69 head first came hardened valve seats to deal with unleaded gas. The valves I found from TRW, hard chrome stems and stellite faced exaust, sorry but I don't have a p/n for them. Bronze-aluminum-silicon valve guides and a 3 angle cut on the seats. The ports didn't get any wild work, just removing all of the casting ridges and a little smoothing around the valve guides, matching the ports to the intake and headers, and removing the huge EGR bosses (the were there but not drilled) in the exaust ports. Teflon stem seals.

I was worried about the rocker arm studs pulling out with the dual springs so bought some 7/16" SS screw in studs and had the heads milled and bored/tapped for them. Can't remember who I bought them from exactly, but am thinking Clifford or Harland Sharp. The cam lift was fairly high for the relatively short duration and I was worried about side forces on the valve stems so I bought Harland Sharp roller rocker arms, 1.6-1 ratio, p/n S4002.

After that came an Offenhauser dual port intake and Holley 390 cfm 4bbl. I had planned on eventually buying a new billit distributor set up with GM HEI but to start with used a used Ford Duraspark II (?, or III?) distributer, Accell coil and wires, and Bosch platinum plugs. I ended up selling the truck befor going any further with that.

The carb was topped with a K&N Stubstack and a large K&N air filter. I also bought a pair of adaptor plates that replace the stock Holley jetting plates that had Webber jets in them. It let a person change/tune all of the jets without having to remove the float bowls. I keep thinking that they were made by Edelbrock, but my memory is dimm on that one. In any case I sold the truck before installing them so never found out how good they were.

I have no idea how much HP the motor made, considerably more than stock, but it's real value was the enormous amount of torque that it produced. I could load the bed to the cab top with wood and accelerate up any hill in any gear. In fact it seemed to perform better when loaded than when empty. It felt like you could throw an anchor out and just pull any hill down to the flatland. For anyone from the Tacoma/Puyallup Washington area, I could go up Puyallup's south hill with a full load accellerating all the way.

Mileage with this motor was around 18-19 if I kept my foot out of the secondaries and watched the vacuum guage.

Cheers,
James
 
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I've had Mad Midnite Musings of pullin' the V-10 from the Excursion, & droppin' a 300 in. I kinda doubt there would be any real benefit in doing so, since the 300s are Gas Hogs, & drivability would suffer.
 
I've had Mad Midnite Musings of pullin' the V-10 from the Excursion, & droppin' a 300 in. I kinda doubt there would be any real benefit in doing so, since the 300s are Gas Hogs, & drivability would suffer.

Hi Sandy. I'm thinking that that would be something of a Midnite Nightnare project. But maybe you could find a way to put 2 of them side by side in that huge Conti and call it an H12 or something. :D One for each rear wheel and 2 gas pedals to steer. :D:D

Cheers,
James
 
I dropped $1000 on speed parts for my 300. I still get 10 mpg with less horsepower than a V-8. It needs more money and time. Sort of a bane for me. My dad has an '86 F250 with a 460 4barrel. It gets 14 mpg. :tears:

Your '66 4x4 is (was) awesome.

Hi BEC, what exactly did you put into your 300 in terms of parts? What's the rear end gearing on the truck? From your pic it looks like you have an electronic ignition distributer, but are those stock carbon core plug wires? If so and if they are at all old try replacing them with copper core or Monel wound plug wires and see what that does for you. Old carbon core plug wires won't get the juice to your plugs. That alone would help your mpg.

My '66 was originally an Army truck, that's where the brush guard came from. It was pretty thrashed when I bought it in ca '82. But it had some nice mods. Someone had welded in a battery box up front with the motor, and replaced the battery box under the passengers feet with a welded up box just long enough to hold 2x 1/2 cases or 4x 6-packs of beverages hidden beneath the floor. The boxes on the side steps were 20mm ammo cans and were great for holding tow chains, cargo straps, spare parts etc. The heater core was a huge dual core block that was great in the winter.

No power steering or brakes, I used to have some muscle in my arms back then from driving that beast.

Cheers,
James
 
Hi Sandy. I'm thinking that that would be something of a Midnite Nightnare project. But maybe you could find a way to put 2 of them side by side in that huge Conti and call it an H12 or something. :D One for each rear wheel and 2 gas pedals to steer. :D:D

Cheers,
James

Cadillac has had musings of V-12s ever since WW2-Most seriously in the early/mid Sixties, as an engine for the Eldorado. High costs killed it, however. Lincoln actually made a LOT more V-12s than Caddy ever did, Cad dropped their 12 in '37, Lincoln kept theirs til '48. The engine bay in the Sixties Lincolns is actually kinda on the small side, I doubt if a 300 or any sort of V-12 would fit... Shame, though. Too bad Cad didn't say the hell w/costs & put a 12 in the Eldo, & Fleetwood Sixty Specials, then maybe Lincoln would have fronted one for the Mark 3 & 4... The mind boggles w/what "Could have been"...
 
The 1st L-Z V-12s were TINY, & not overly powerful. Furthermore, they had quite a few faults common to Ford flathead V-8s, which was all they were w/4 more cylinders. They had alloy heads, & needed more oil capacity & FREQUENT changes-much more than they typically got. The alloy heads & the rest of the motor worked against each other, in an electrolytic reaction, & the life of a L-Z V-12 was often pitifully short. They couldn't breathe very well. Survivors nowadays usually have most/all of their faults addressed, & they can give 50-75000 mile service w/few problems. As can be seen, they were VERY quiet & smooth. The high speeds of the L-Z & Continentals was due more to their streamlined shape than the engine's power.
 
The 300 is an interesting motor. Tough as nails, terrible on fuel, not real powerful. The EFI ones could be helped somewhat though. Use bigger injectors and ramp down the fuel pressure to make up for it and they picked up somewhat. The carb ones work better if you use the dual outlet EFI exhaust manifold. The stock intake and exhaust on those I6 motors were universally horrible. The runner lengths were grossly uneven, and flow was just pathetic at best.

They do apparently make a hell of a generator or air compressor motor though. RUn it all day long at a stable RPM.
 
It would be fun with three webers or mikunis - of course would need some motor work to match. Nothing like side draft carbs.
 
Hi BEC, what exactly did you put into your 300 in terms of parts? What's the rear end gearing on the truck? From your pic it looks like you have an electronic ignition distributer, but are those stock carbon core plug wires? If so and if they are at all old try replacing them with copper core or Monel wound plug wires and see what that does for you. Old carbon core plug wires won't get the juice to your plugs. That alone would help your mpg.
Cheers,
James

I started with an '85 F150 with the 300, four speed tranny, and the rear end gears are either 3.00 to 1, or 3.09 to 1. The motor had a computer feedback Carter YF carb on it. It got 11 mpg. The motor was swapped for a fresh '84 300. The '84 motor had the old style head, the '85 motor had the EFI style head even though EFI wasn't released until '86.

When I put the '84 motor in, I added a Davis Unified Iginition from Performance Distributors. It's the GM HEI unit on the Ford stem.

Unfortunately, the person that had rebuilt the motor did not add the thrust spacer that goes on the cam snout. This caused the distributor gear to keep being destroyed. I had to swap cams, and used the stock cam from the '85 motor. That's when I discovered the thrust spacer, an item peculiar to the inline big block motor. It cured the problem.

I swapped in a pair of EFI exhaust maqnifolds. I have 2" dual exhaust with stock oval mufflers. The exhaust ends at the mufflers, nice rumble sound under the bed. I hate loud exhaust systems.

The intake is a Clifford water heated. I have both the two barrel and four barrel plates, I'm running the four barrel plate. The carb is a 600 cfm Edelbrock (carter) with the secondaries disconnected. The primaries give me 280 cfm. The motor zings to 4000 rpm, but it has an off idle problem. I'm working on it.

I think the intake plenum in the Clifford is too large for a stock cam and stock intake ports. I'm going to put an intake divider under the carb so that the back half of the carb is isolated from the front half of the intake mainfold, and vice versa. This is based on research and theory.

I'm trying to build a carb more suitable. It an old Carter AVS from a '65 Chevy. It's the smallest AVS ever build, I'm going to make it smaller.

Rodger that on the plug wires. I have a new set of spiral core wires waiting to go on.

I drive this truck less than 1000 miles annually. I keep it to haul stuff. I have a 9" rear end with a Detroit Locker waiting to go in. It's gear too low at 4.56 to 1, but what the hell.

DSC00034.jpg
 
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I started with an '85 F150 with the 300, four speed tranny, and the rear end gears are either 3.00 to 1, or 3.09 to 1. The motor had a computer feedback Carter YF carb on it. It got 11 mpg. The motor was swapped for a fresh '84 300. The '84 motor had the old style head, the '85 motor had the EFI style head even though EFI wasn't released until '86.

When I put the '84 motor in, I added a Davis Unified Iginition from Performance Distributors. It's the GM HEI unit on the Ford stem.

Unfortunately, the person that had rebuilt the motor did not add the thrust spacer that goes on the cam snout. This caused the distributor gear to keep being destroyed. I had to swap cams, and used the stock cam from the '85 motor. That's when I discovered the thrust spacer, an item peculiar to the inline big block motor. It cured the problem.

I swapped in a pair of EFI exhaust maqnifolds. I have 2" dual exhaust with stock oval mufflers. The exhaust ends at the mufflers, nice rumble sound under the bed. I hate loud exhaust systems.

The intake is a Clifford water heated. I have both the two barrel and four barrel plates, I'm running the four barrel plate. The carb is a 600 cfm Edelbrock (carter) with the secondaries disconnected. The primaries give me 280 cfm. The motor zings to 4000 rpm, but it has an off idle problem. I'm working on it.

I think the intake plenum in the Clifford is too large for a stock cam and stock intake ports. I'm going to put an intake divider under the carb so that the back half of the carb is isolated from the front half of the intake mainfold, and vice versa. This is based on research and theory.

I'm trying to build a carb more suitable. It an old Carter AVS from a '65 Chevy. It's the smallest AVS ever build, I'm going to make it smaller.

Rodger that on the plug wires. I have a new set of spiral core wires waiting to go on.

I drive this truck less than 1000 miles annually. I keep it to haul stuff. I have a 9" rear end with a Detroit Locker waiting to go in. It's gear too low at 4.56 to 1, but what the hell.

OK. I have a nasty headache so I hope this doesn't get rambly-dumb. IIRC that Carter carb had a duty-cycle solenoid thingy that metered the main jet based on feedback from an oxy sensor in the exaust. I never actually heard anything good about them, although Holley added a similar option to their 450cfm 4bbl that let you change the effective main jet size with the flip of a switch.

I think that you are on the right track regarding carb setup. Unless a person is building a racer overcarbing is really counterproductice on these motors. They are long strokers that spend most of their time under 4000 rpm and everything that I ever worked out showed that the 390cfm Holley 4bbl with vacuum secondaries was the perfect carb setup. 280 on the primaries alone with that Edelbrock is still a bit large for normal driving.

Writing about all of this brings back some things that I had forgotten. Like why I went from the Cliffird intake to the Offy. Short answer, I screwed up. Long answer, the bane of the 300 imo is that with the way the bolt pattern is set up for the intake/exaust manifolds on the pre-EFI motors leaves the #4 exaust port poorly clamped to the head and causes exaust leaks there. Which results in burned #4 exaust valves. The '77 motor that I bought had burned #4 exaust valves and was cracked across the valve seat.

I found that installing the Cliffird intake and Clifford headers on the 240 with no help was an extreme pita, so when I built my 300 I added studs to the head for mounting the manifolds. I also made a long clamp from a piece cut from a leaf spring to reach over from the #5 stud and help clamp down the #4 exaust on the header. This worked pretty well and made mounting all of that a lot easier. But I didn't think it through about how much extra clamping force nuts on studs have and when torquing the nuts I cracked one of the mounting flanges on the intake. Memory dims but I think that in the end I found that about 1/2 to 2/3 of the normal torque values was enough.

So when looking for a replacement intake I heard about the Offy dual port. It makes sence, the primaries feed into the upper port/plane and because of it's reduced area keeps velocities high. The secondaries feed into the larger cross section lower port/plane.

When I was first trying to find some more in depth info about the 300 I called the local Ford dealer service dept and asked who knew anything. This would have been perhaps '91 or '92. I chatted with a fellow and he gave me a telephone number to a different dealer service dept up in Seattle. And he gave me another number. This kept happening and I just worked my way up the food chain. Finally this one guy gave me the number of "an engineer in Detroit that knows something about the 300".

So I called it. The guy on the other end was a bit freaked out and demanded to know how I got his number. So I explained the whole thing and he just calmed down and started chatting with me. Turned out that I had called Fords cheif engineer that had been responsable for developing the EFI motor. He was actually a very friendly man and we talked for over an hour.

He explained that 2 of the most important parts of the new motor (other than the electronics and fuel injection) was the combustion chamber/piston shape and how the heart shaped quench area opposite the valves created what was later called High Swirl that helped promote a more complete fuel burn. The second thing was improved manifold shapes and a new bolt pattern on the manifolds to eliminate the old leaks and burned valves.

This info is what led me to choose the Solvolite quench head pistons. And being hypereutectic they are stronger than plain cast but have very good heat expansion characteristics, so can be fit very tight in the bores, unlike forged pistons.

The Performance Distributors distributer that you have is exactly what I wanted to buy. But money ran low and then I decided to move over here, end of that. Very nice distributer.

I ran my headers straight back to some glass pack mufflers under the bed with long straight pipe extentions out the back, all 2". The truck sat high enough that I didn't need to mess with any curves. It was a little loud but not as much as you might think considering that it was essentially a straight pipe. :D I always loved that angry straight six snarl.

Back when I had that truck I was working at an etching company. Before I quit and moved over here I was working on etching an intake/exaust gasket out of 0.32" soft copper. I think that it would have sealed well and the copper would have spread the heat well enough to avoid burnthrough, unlike every other gasket that I ever tried. Another project that fell through.

I would have loved to have a Detroit locker for the rear axle. The 4.56 rear end was great for off road or hauling a full load of wood. but of course you know that it's not going to improve your MPG. :D At freeway speeds your motor will be wound tight. Plan on doing a lot of driving at 55-60mph. If you wind that motor regularly over 4500rpm with stock cast pistons don't count on a long life. If you figure 2500fpm as a max sustained safe piston speed with stock cast pistons you will see why Ford set a redline of 3600 (or is it 3800) for the 300. Hypereutectic pistons are safe to around 4500 to 5000rpm sustained use. That long stroke makes for high piston speeds.

Going with a cam of around 256° will give you the best combo of torque and mpg in the rpm range that your truck will be using when carrying a load. That's why I chose the Isky cam that I did.

'gnite,
James
 
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It would be fun with three webers or mikunis - of course would need some motor work to match. Nothing like side draft carbs.

This is the only way to resolve the unequal length intake runner problem. They do make a side draft weber manifold for this application. It's not feasible for daily drivers, only race applications. The smallest venturis available are too large. Cold weather issues abound, etc. You have multiple manual chokes, and carb synching required.
 
Bottom line is don't do it, IMHO.

The EFI exhaust manifolds don't index to the carb head. As a matter of fact, aftermarket headrers and aftermarket intakes don't index with the intake and exhaust ports. They aren't port matched, port matching them is very challenging, few people ever do it.

Your best bet would be to use the EFI motor complete with the EFI head. Use a turbo and run propane.

I'll keep dinking with my gas burner. My number 4 exhaust port doesn't seem to be leaking. I doubt I'll ever be satisfied with it
 
Bottom line is don't do it, IMHO.

The EFI exhaust manifolds don't index to the carb head. As a matter of fact, aftermarket headrers and aftermarket intakes don't index with the intake and exhaust ports. They aren't port matched, port matching them is very challenging, few people ever do it.

Your best bet would be to use the EFI motor complete with the EFI head. Use a turbo and run propane.

I'll keep dinking with my gas burner. My number 4 exhaust port doesn't seem to be leaking. I doubt I'll ever be satisfied with it

been there done that on the FTE site, here is a link with pick-shures:

EFI mainfolds on non EFI head
 
I need to back track a little. The big Ford sixes are cool. If you want something outside the 'mainstream" and you have the money, go for it.

If your poor like me, I'd suggest looking at the '83 and up, 460 cid V-8. My dad's motor has great potential. 385 ft/lbs of torque and 245 HP stock. A Holley 780cfm vacuum secondary carb stock. They have a dual snorkel air cleaner, and the secondary snorkel is vacuum operated to open to cold air at WOT. Groovy. 300 HP easy with bolt-on parts, and fairly decent mileage in a truck. With an AOD, 20 mpg highway is possible.
 
The 460 never came with an AOD. Different bolt pattern from the 385 series engines to the Windsor smallblock pattern. Those would have come with either a C6 or on later models, an E4OD which requires a controller computer. Being an EFI fan, that wouldn't really be an issue. I gave up on carbs years ago. Those 460's, even with EFI and overdrive, were never capable of 20 mpg though. We had one at the marina I worked at, and if you could hit the teens on the highway unloaded you were doing good. On the other hand, you could load it down and it didn't do any worse either. It pulled nearly as well as the 7.3 Powerstroke truck we had, but it sucked a lot more fuel.
 
I need to back track a little. The big Ford sixes are cool. If you want something outside the 'mainstream" and you have the money, go for it.

This is the truth. I had a lot of fun with my 6 bangers (also had a 200 in my Falcon) but in reality performance parts for them cost more than for a v8. If I was still in the states and wanted to build something for an older pickup that was more than a six but less than a big block I'd probably build up a 400M.

I know that they aren't a very well loved motor but for a torquer for a pickup I always thought that they had pontential with their 4" stroke and bore. Done right I think that one could make a nice (low rpm) motor with one of them.

Cheers,
James
 
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