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Ford I6-300 Anyone?

The 460 never came with an AOD. Different bolt pattern from the 385 series engines to the Windsor smallblock pattern. Those would have come with either a C6 or on later models, an E4OD which requires a controller computer. Being an EFI fan, that wouldn't really be an issue. I gave up on carbs years ago. Those 460's, even with EFI and overdrive, were never capable of 20 mpg though. We had one at the marina I worked at, and if you could hit the teens on the highway unloaded you were doing good. On the other hand, you could load it down and it didn't do any worse either. It pulled nearly as well as the 7.3 Powerstroke truck we had, but it sucked a lot more fuel.

Thanks for the info. Tell me about manual transmissions for the 460. Did any use a divorced (seperate) bell housing?
 
That I don't know for sure, but it would not surprise me. I know the non-turbo diesel engines sometimes used the same transmissions as the 460 trucks, but they used a different bellhouse. It would make sense if the bellhouse was able to swap from one to the other vs having to use a whole different casting, though Ford did do that with the E4OD. The diesel E4OD is a specific trans.

Big blocks are out of my area of study for the most part. I worked on a very few of them as boat engines, but thats really it. My Lincolns have a 302/AOD driveline so most of my Ford knowledge is based around what does and does not fit into them.
 
well the non turbo diesel had no computer, so any E4OD trannys, while the same as any other, the PCM was way different programming wise. Basically sensors were piggy backed to give the PCM an idea of demand. Once they put in the 7.3 Turbo, it needed electronic controls so it was an easier matchup but the programming was still different (for example on some acceleration programs it would not downshift but rather lock up and let the motor leg it out)

other topics: the 460s are tough builds, there have been so many engineering changes over the years - even between carb and EFI that MOST of the factory parts are actually poor combos with each other when you drop out of a year range, i,e. no EFI intakes fit well to a carbed head, most carb intakes do not mix well with heads from various years.

the 400M: Im surprised the purists didnt get on you about that....no such thing as a 400M! the 335 family however, the 351M and 400 were never produced with performance versions, even tho the '2V' heads on them can and did have larger valves than the windsors - the chambers were so large you can never get compression without special pistons. they were large bell housing motors with little hp, but good low end torque, used to push heavy cars - Id take a pass.

as for the manuals, Im having a hard time thinking of ANY of the manuals that do not unbolt from the bell....
 
The 300 is an interesting motor. Tough as nails, terrible on fuel, not real powerful.

Yeah, but you leave it in first and you've got loads of torque. The engine was built for torque. I drug a 1991 lincolin that someone forgot to put in neutral before I tried to move it. I'm down in first off the clutch with no movement...smellin that thing start to burn...then it lurched forward...dragging that lincolin. I yelled at someone to throw it in neutral...and then the truck pulled it without an issue.
 
My daily driver is 91' F150 with the 4.9L and a five speed. Thing has no inkling to die, starts first crank every time. The truck is falling apart around the drive train, and it still delivers 17-19mpg with 251,000 on the odometer. Only real issue is a leaky rear main, but that is par for the course with this motor.
 
I'll keep dinking with my gas burner. My number 4 exhaust port doesn't seem to be leaking. I doubt I'll ever be satisfied with it

When I still had a 240 and the 170cfm 1bbl carb I mounted a tach and a vacuum guage next to it up on the top of the dash where I could easilly keep an eye on them. I read up on the carb operation and learned at which points the idle, transition, and main circuits worked in terms of manifold vacuum. I added color range marks to the vacuum guage for the working areas of each circuit, green for idle, yellow for transition, red for main.

After a while with that setup you can really start to feel what is happening in the carb and that's when I learned to start getting the best milage out of the motor. I kept going with that through each upgrade, 2bbl and then 4bbl.

I found that when the motor was in it's best tune it would idle at about 18" on the vacuum guage, start to go into the transition circuit at around 15", and get the best milage when I kept it from 15-12". Want the best milage out of your carbed 300? Get a vacuum guage and get real friendly with it.

Cheers,
James
 
I have a tach, and a full set gauges on top of the dash. UV rays destroy the them, except for the tach. I don't have a garage.

I can't source a new vacuum gauge anywhere, they're all vacuum/boost gauges now. I bought a used auto meter vacuum gauge...cooked it in about a year.
 
I have a tach, and a full set gauges on top of the dash. UV rays destroy the them, except for the tach. I don't have a garage.

I can't source a new vacuum gauge anywhere, they're all vacuum/boost gauges now. I bought a used auto meter vacuum gauge...cooked it in about a year.

My old F-250 had working amp and water temp meters above the speedo so when I bought a volt/oil/water instrument cluster I had an extra water temp guage. The '77 motor had a sensor tap on the thermostat housing (for polution control temp sensor or something) , so I left the original temp sensor in the block and screwed the new one in on the thermostat. After that I could see exactly when the thermostat opened and closed and keep a closer eye on the head temp. Just toys really but I liked it that way.

Iirc the stock thermostat was 180° but I usually ran a 195° thermostat. The motor ran a lot better in cool and damp Washington with a little more heat. The radiator got replaced with a hefty dual core unit so it had no trouble holding the motor temp at that point. Eventually I added an oil temp as well as the oil pressure guage.

You must get some hellatious sun over there in Kansas to be cooking guages like that. LOL I never had that problem in Washington state. I was happy to just see a little bit of sunshine from time to time between the rain.

Cheers,
James
 
We have a moderate climate, here. I certainly didn't anticipate the guage problem. I snap a pic or two and post them. It's any brand gauge that has a plastic spacer ring holding the glass in place. The plastic ring falls apart within two years.
 
That I don't know for sure, but it would not surprise me. I know the non-turbo diesel engines sometimes used the same transmissions as the 460 trucks, but they used a different bellhouse. It would make sense if the bellhouse was able to swap from one to the other vs having to use a whole different casting, though Ford did do that with the E4OD. The diesel E4OD is a specific trans.

Big blocks are out of my area of study for the most part. I worked on a very few of them as boat engines, but thats really it. My Lincolns have a 302/AOD driveline so most of my Ford knowledge is based around what does and does not fit into them.

ummm, ford builds in quantities enough to justify casting with different patterns on the front for engine mounting and the rear for 4x2 vs 4x4 applications. the magic and cost is in in the internals and controllers.
 
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