Hopefully they're for real, and hopefully a Twin Cities area AK'er could snag 'em:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/zip/3687695279.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/zip/3687695279.html
Free Wharfedales:MPLS CL
- Thread starter electronjohn
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canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
Doesn't exactly say "free" on there.. they may have forgotten to put a price up.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
Brian
An Old Geezer
There are deals and h*ll. Of a deal and these are the latter. I have the same model and cabinet and love them for classical, jazz, chamber, vocals but, they are not for rockers. Depending on date, usually 1 oil cap in the crossover and the 3 drivers are some of the designs even today. The cap usually needs replacement, just go for an oil as polys make the high end too harsh.
See if the seller has the accessory legs. Nice addition but no sweat. They are not much more than 4 blocks of wood and dowels but a nice addition. If not there, you can emulate them by raising the front by about 4" and the rear 3". There are 4 possible speaker terminals depending on where made and market:
1) Single plug that is the Motorola plug used for car radios. Actually presents a lot of surface contact but limits the wire size and odd. The speakers are Wharfedale kits sold to the Asian market and cabinets made by Peoples Radio (or something like that).
2) 2 plug in holes that look like standard banana jacks would fit but, they are smaller than the banana plug. Hopefully, the seller has the plugs that are quite as is. These were somewhat common one test equipment years ago in the UK, they are as scarce as hens' teeth today. My W70s have these and I am happy with them.
3) The common screw terminal that is so common. Some use screws while I have seem others that use the knurled thumb screw not requiring a screwdriver.
4) The knurled nut type used by some AR and Advent speakers. Many replace the nuts with wing nuts.
There is a lot of room on the crossover board to sub out the terminals to something newer with no problem.
The back panel is sans filled so do not breach it. By now the while sans will have settled. You can drill holes at the top of the panel and add CLEAN white sand and the plug the holes. This will significantly bring the inertness of the design back into spec. I am planning to do it when I next open mine up.
The drivers have VERY narrow vc gaps and it is not uncommon to have vc rub. Provided they have not had other damage simply turn them 180 degrees and let them settle for a couple of weeks. It seems if the speakers are run often this is less of an occurrence.
For those who want to kick ot up a notch add a pair of JansZen add on tweeters or the Microacoustics. The JansZens were a popular add on back then. I have a set of JansZen Z412HPs with bi-amp crossover that at some point I'll bring back, needs ps capping and use the e'stats by flipping them upside down on top of the W70s. I'm happy with the W70s as is but since I have the JansZens, why not.
I hope someone here grabs them.
See if the seller has the accessory legs. Nice addition but no sweat. They are not much more than 4 blocks of wood and dowels but a nice addition. If not there, you can emulate them by raising the front by about 4" and the rear 3". There are 4 possible speaker terminals depending on where made and market:
1) Single plug that is the Motorola plug used for car radios. Actually presents a lot of surface contact but limits the wire size and odd. The speakers are Wharfedale kits sold to the Asian market and cabinets made by Peoples Radio (or something like that).
2) 2 plug in holes that look like standard banana jacks would fit but, they are smaller than the banana plug. Hopefully, the seller has the plugs that are quite as is. These were somewhat common one test equipment years ago in the UK, they are as scarce as hens' teeth today. My W70s have these and I am happy with them.
3) The common screw terminal that is so common. Some use screws while I have seem others that use the knurled thumb screw not requiring a screwdriver.
4) The knurled nut type used by some AR and Advent speakers. Many replace the nuts with wing nuts.
There is a lot of room on the crossover board to sub out the terminals to something newer with no problem.
The back panel is sans filled so do not breach it. By now the while sans will have settled. You can drill holes at the top of the panel and add CLEAN white sand and the plug the holes. This will significantly bring the inertness of the design back into spec. I am planning to do it when I next open mine up.
The drivers have VERY narrow vc gaps and it is not uncommon to have vc rub. Provided they have not had other damage simply turn them 180 degrees and let them settle for a couple of weeks. It seems if the speakers are run often this is less of an occurrence.
For those who want to kick ot up a notch add a pair of JansZen add on tweeters or the Microacoustics. The JansZens were a popular add on back then. I have a set of JansZen Z412HPs with bi-amp crossover that at some point I'll bring back, needs ps capping and use the e'stats by flipping them upside down on top of the W70s. I'm happy with the W70s as is but since I have the JansZens, why not.
I hope someone here grabs them.
