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From 0 to 3 Turntables!

louisjames said:
IMHO you really can't do better than the 150MLX. It "warms up" the "to some" AT brightness and has an overall, full, lush but still articulate sound quality. The one downside is the heavy metal body but I think that's also one of the reasons along with the needle profile it tracks so well and sounds so good. Plus it just feels like a quality cart when you handle it and put it on your headshell. I think you'll like it even better if you can get the counter weight closer to the pivot point. Measure the tube opening, go to your local hardware store and look for the heaviest, hex-head bolt (I use a stainless steel) you can find. Wrap it in some electrical tape and slot it in. Doing so allowed me to move the counter weight from where you have it to just behind the pivot. Just my 2c's.
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Yes I love the 150MLX and would hate to get something else and not like it. I'll have to look into an extra weight for rear.
 
You might sacrifice a bit of the 150MLX quality, but you could toss the stylus on a lower AT body for better tracking weight as well. Only cost effective if you have one though, since adding extra weight will be a lot cheaper. My Grado sits pretty forward on the post, but's also ~3g lighter.
 
The 150mlx gets it's fabulous sound owing in part to the cast body....a quality which typically finds it's way only in the >$1K+ category...making it somewhat of a bargain. I would not, under any circumstances, 'sacrifice' a little SQ by substituting a lighter plastic body simply to move the CW forward.

If it's any consolation, despite the fact the CW is all the way back, the EM is probably still lower than it would be with a heavier arm and a heavier, more forward CW. Only thing to be concerned with is that the VTF is not excessively out of range.
 
vincei said:
Yes I love the 150MLX and would hate to get something else and not like it. I'll have to look into an extra weight for rear.
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The T65(C) comes with the rear aux weight.

May be you can adopt one from that model or even one from another brand. :idea:
 
It sounds great as is and I am tracking at 1.25g so I may leave it for now. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Large rubber feet may also fit over the counterweight, add weight and maybe dampen vibrations a bit to boot.
I use something like that on my ADF LMF arm with AT-150mlx combo.
 
Congrats on the OC9, Just be careful. I had one and loved it until my finger brushed against the cantilever and it snapped off! That cntilever just sticking out there with no protection makes it vulnerable.
 
Garven said:
Congrats on the OC9, Just be careful. I had one and loved it until my finger brushed against the cantilever and it snapped off! That cntilever just sticking out there with no protection makes it vulnerable.
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I know, it makes me very nervous! It's a fantastic cartridge. In fact I really like it on my PLX-1000. I also have an Technics SP-25 I am working on, will try it on that once I get it running.
 
vincei said:
Anyone have experience with these mats below? The cork rubber mix looks interesting. I like the idea of keeping the mat black if possible.

http://hifiarte.com/en/o-295-mm/51-pw-rm-3-knb.html
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I use a Herbie pad under my Achromat by Funk and it tightened up the bass very well. I had to shell out $175 for the Technics model for my AT-120LP, but it was worth it. I ran a test test of 3 samples of one song using different combos of pads I had and the Herbie under the Achromat was the best. It took the bass from sounding like it went through a reverb to actually sounding like the bass guitar piece it was meant to to be. I use the AT440MLa cartridge.
 
vincei said:
I wonder what one would have to spend to get something like this new?
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Those HK turntables weren't cheap back in the day! Here were the prices of them in 1984. T55C $375, T60C $475, T65C $575

They used to call the HK turntables "The working man's Linn Sondek".

I do have a HK T55C. Was using an Audio Technica AT-440MLa & Shure M97xE cartridges on it, using a Thorens TD-160/SME 3009 now.
 
I think I like the AT-150MLX on the HK more and the OC9ML/II on the PLX-1000. I also made an aux weight for the back of the T60C tonearm, looks stock too!
In the time I started this thread, I picked up a mint Technics SP-25. I am working on a temporary plinth (cost = $0) until I can get my hands on a Technics SH-15 type plinth. I plan to use a Kenwood TA-71 tonearm with it (not shown). Not sure what I am going to do with all these tables....

Technics SP-25 Plinth Mockup by mastercontrolmedia, on Flickr
 
VinylRescue said:
I use a Herbie pad under my Achromat by Funk and it tightened up the bass very well. I had to shell out $175 for the Technics model for my AT-120LP, but it was worth it. I ran a test test of 3 samples of one song using different combos of pads I had and the Herbie under the Achromat was the best. It took the bass from sounding like it went through a reverb to actually sounding like the bass guitar piece it was meant to to be. I use the AT440MLa cartridge.
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This has been my experience as well with a rigid mat isolated from the platter. Better detail and harmonic clarity at the expense of some amplitude, which comes across more as bloat. Sometimes that's ok....
 
vincei said:
Here are a couple crappy pics of the counterweight and 150MLX mounted.

View attachment 776790
View attachment 776791
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Here's a simple solution to make your counterweight heavier. Take the counterweight to a hardware store and select a stainless steel washer that matches the diameter size and hole of the counterweight. Use Scotch Double Sided Tape and tape the washer(s) to the counterweight! It's that easy! I did that to my SME 3009 Improved tonearm, works like a charm!! The counterweight will be closer to the tonearm pivot giving you better bass & tracking warped records! The counterweight looks really nice with the correct size washers added to it!

You can use the Scotch double sided tape to tape your unglued album covers!

51XZqApNkJL._SY355_.jpg
 
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