Audio sounds suppressed. When I activate the auto return there are a brief few seconds where the audio improves. I have checked the tonearm wires and the muting switch. I also replaced with a known good cartridge. Any Garrard enthusiasts that may know where to look? Thank you in advance
Garrard Lab 80
- Thread starter noklew
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- garrard garrard lab 80 lab 80
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johnjhazel
PhxJohn
There is a dedicated thread on here where you may want to post and read about the Lb 80. I have four of them. Only one is fully functional. I am happy to have the one. Hope this helps:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/my-garrard-lab-80-obsession.278625/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/my-garrard-lab-80-obsession.278625/
My guess is something with the muting switch is acting up. Either its out of adjustment and constantly in "mute" mode, or there is some crust in the switch causing a partial short. The muting switch is right where the RCa cables and the tonearm wires come together.
That was my thought as well. I gained access to the switch and hit with DEOXIT but could not find a way to take it apart and clean the contacts. Any recommendations are welcome
One other question since we’re talking about the switch. There’s a black ground wire and the manual says it should be soldered to the earth tab but the manual also calls out 2 earth tabs. Do you know which earth tab by chance? Right now it is not connected and there is no sign of old solder on either earth tab
Have to track heavy right now otherwise it sticks. The tonearm moves freely however it feels a bit sloppy. When the auto return engages the tonearm at the pivot base raises. I think the bearings may be missing and I have ordered some. Just need to figure out how to access them. This poor table needs lots of TLC and I am determined to resurrect it now
the switch is riveted together but its fairly open. Should be able to get a piece of paper in there to run between the contacts after flushing it out. I'm more a CRC QD kinda guy though, it leaves no residue behind.
On mine, right down the center of the mute switch is a bar with 2 tabs. The ground lead is on the bottom one, but I honestly don't think it matters. Both are connected together.
On the bottom of the arm there is a lever with a C shaped piece where it folds back on itself and conencts to the bottom of the arm, and there is a set screw to clamp it in place. Removing that screw lets the arm come out. Found that by accident when the arm fell out on me and all the tiny bearing balls vanished. Its piece number 83 in the attached service manual. Mark 1 and Mark 2 are the same there.
On mine, right down the center of the mute switch is a bar with 2 tabs. The ground lead is on the bottom one, but I honestly don't think it matters. Both are connected together.
On the bottom of the arm there is a lever with a C shaped piece where it folds back on itself and conencts to the bottom of the arm, and there is a set screw to clamp it in place. Removing that screw lets the arm come out. Found that by accident when the arm fell out on me and all the tiny bearing balls vanished. Its piece number 83 in the attached service manual. Mark 1 and Mark 2 are the same there.
Thx for the diagram. Before I add the new bearings do you recommend greasing the tonearm shaft and bearings or leaving them clean?