Garrard Zero 100 Issues With Automatic Functions

[tiga]

Just a quick update - I installed the new motor mounts, which worked out great. They fit perfectly and they definitely lowered the motor noise. The old mounts weren't terrible but two of them seemed to be hardening. While I had the motor out I disassembled it again, gave it a good cleaning and re-oiled it. It still runs hot but the odor is gone.

I think I have a flat spot on my idler wheel so I think that is the next thing is to replace. When I turn the unit off the idler wheel retracts very far back and I think it rests on the platter. I see Voice of Music carries rebuilt idlers and there is a vendor on ebay (same one selling the upgraded bearing). Not sure which I'm going to go with yet.

I've been giving this unit a good bit of use and I have to say it sounds great and is now working very well. I really appreciate all the help with this project - I sure learned a lot and glad to have saved this cool Garrard.

 

[GarrardZero1]

I had a little progress last night. I took the pieces off above the cam as well as the piece that moves the size selector rod and gave them a good cleaning and reassembled. They are all moving much better now however it didn't solve any of the problems. I propped the unit up and spent a little time underneath it watching the mechanisms work and noticed that the arm with the finger and spring just wasn't moving the rod the whole way - even though it moved freely. I took the little spring off and pulled out some of the windings to make it tighter and that did it. Now it has enough tension to move the rod the whole way and the record drops down where it's supposed to. Victory!

What still needs fixed include:
1. It still doesn't turn off in auto mode at the run out - the arm returns then keeps repeating the cycle.
2. In manual mode when the arm returns everything slows down right before the tonearm gets to the tonearm rest, sometimes everything stops for a second before sluggishly finishing the movement.
3. The activation of the auto arm movement still makes a loud clunking noise (seems louder than it should be anyway).

If anyone has any thoughts on these last three I'd appreciate it!

1. This has to do with the grade of greas in the 'cam below the chassis in my experience. I think Garrard used something 'stickier' than the White Lithium I used after I cleaned mine. A Graphite grease perhaps?

2. All the 'Automation kicks in one the arm passes back over the starting grooves on the LP, this slows the platter down, especially if the tension on the idler wheel spring is a bit light. Try 'flattening out ' (ie lengthening) the bent metal 'connecting rod' between the manual on-switch and the Idler engagement spring to increase the pressure on the idler wheel.

3 Mine clunks on initiation too...before the music starts, so who cares?

 

[GarrardZero1]

Just a quick update - I installed the new motor mounts, which worked out great. They fit perfectly and they definitely lowered the motor noise. The old mounts weren't terrible but two of them seemed to be hardening. While I had the motor out I disassembled it again, gave it a good cleaning and re-oiled it. It still runs hot but the odor is gone.

I think I have a flat spot on my idler wheel so I think that is the next thing is to replace. When I turn the unit off the idler wheel retracts very far back and I think it rests on the platter. I see Voice of Music carries rebuilt idlers and there is a vendor on ebay (same one selling the upgraded bearing). Not sure which I'm going to go with yet.

I've been giving this unit a good bit of use and I have to say it sounds great and is now working very well. I really appreciate all the help with this project - I sure learned a lot and glad to have saved this cool Garrard.

What make / Manufacturer /Specificationare your replacement motor mounts? Where did you get them? Thx.

 

[GarrardZero1]

Thank you. I'll pull the idler off then spin the platter by hand again and see if I notice any changes in noise or length of spin. The idler moves away from the capstan fine but wondering about the platter - it does seem really close to the edge of the chassis wall.

I'm kicking myself for not doing a full service of the bearing when I had the cam assembly removed. Live and learn I guess. From looking online there is supposed to be on O-ring at the bottom of the spindle, I'm not sure if I remember seeing one when I had this out. If it's gone I'm hoping it's the same size as the one I just ordered for the platter.

Thank you for the info on the motor mounts - I'll reach out to him.

 

[GarrardZero1]

Just a quick update - I installed the new motor mounts, which worked out great. They fit perfectly and they definitely lowered the motor noise. The old mounts weren't terrible but two of them seemed to be hardening. While I had the motor out I disassembled it again, gave it a good cleaning and re-oiled it. It still runs hot but the odor is gone.

I think I have a flat spot on my idler wheel so I think that is the next thing is to replace. When I turn the unit off the idler wheel retracts very far back and I think it rests on the platter. I see Voice of Music carries rebuilt idlers and there is a vendor on ebay (same one selling the upgraded bearing). Not sure which I'm going to go with yet.

I've been giving this unit a good bit of use and I have to say it sounds great and is now working very well. I really appreciate all the help with this project - I sure learned a lot and glad to have saved this cool Garrard.

Garrard Zero 100

Still going strong! I still need to fix the Auto Off if you do the auto for whatever reason when you auto start and it's done it will act like it will stop but it will park over on the first track and lower then shut off. If you do it manual then it does not do that it will park and shut off...

audiokarma.org

 

[ATJBlack]

Success. I spent some time with the unit propped up and I watched it operate from underneath. I was able to see that the sliding lever over the cam was not moving the rocking lever under the platter when in automatic mode. It would just barely touch it and thus would not move it far enough to trip the shutoff. The sliding lever has a small piece bent at 90 degrees that comes in contact with the top lever post. I used a small pair of pliers to ever so slightly bend this tab toward the post and voila - the shutoff now works in auto mode!

I ordered a generic stylus which should be here next week. The current stylus is shot. Until then I'm going to work on getting it cleaned up and set up the tonearm. I'd also like to figure out why it's so clunky / noisy in auto mode. I've watched a few videos on Zero 100's in action online and I can hear the same noises - but not as loud. Maybe it's supposed to be like this but it seems a little much to me.

Aside from that is there anything else I should address with this unit? Thank you all for the great advice and support!

Thanks for the description, Tiga. Thanks to you I was able to fix my Garrard Zero 100. It now functions perfectly.