• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Genesis Model ID

Robie

Robie

Live it or live with it.
Subscriber
Picked up a pair of 2-way Genesis at a garage sale with rotted (no) woofer surrounds for $5. Nice Walnut veneer cabinets. Cabinets are 23.5" by 12.5" and 9.5 " deep. Drivers include a: 6" woofer with what appears to be a foam surround and the tweeter is 1.25" in diameter and is shiny black and concave (opposite of dome). The tweeter is mounted on a metal plate with the word "Genesis" in white lettering on the black metal plate.

The sticker on the back of the cabinet lists serial number (begins with the # 10) and the number "10". Another sticker designates either "left" or "right" speaker. That's all there is.

I took the plunge (big spender that I am) and figured I can "resurround" them if I can ID the model and locate a surround kit.

I had borrowed my sister's Genesis +1s (? about the size of Small Advents with green woofer surrounds) 20 years ago and remembered how "Advent-like" they were.

If anyone can help ID these speakers and point me to some woofer surrounds, I would really appreciate it.
 
Register to hide this ad
I'm pretty sure that's an 8" woofer and those are a pair of 1+. Truly excellent speakers, absolutely worth fixing. Generic 8" foam fits them just fine.
 
Hey, Mikech and Tarior, based on what I saw at the humanspeakers website, it appears they are Model 10s because there appears to be remnants of black rather than green surrounds. IMOP, I had measured the diameter of the cone, minus the surround. So the 8" woofer sounds right too along with the cabinet dimensions. It appears the 1+ and the 10s use the same woofer.

I was 300 miles away picking up son at college when my wife bought them for me, but the owner may have called them Model 10s. He bought them in the early '80s. Those factors, and the 1" inverted dome, are also consistent with the info on the Model 10s.

Anyone heard the 10s?
 
They are almost the same speaker. I had a set of 1+ for a couple of years, and they are stunning. Best bookshelf speaker I've ever heard.
 
The Human site sells complete new or refurbished woofers. I was thinking I would try my first re-foam/surround. Is anyone aware of where surrounds can be purchased? They are the L200B model woofer, manufactured on 5/19/81, 26 years to the day before I bought them.

Tarior, Any opinions on how the 10s would compare to original large Advents? I had Advents them for years and never should have gotten rid of them.
 
Robie said:
The Human site sells complete new or refurbished woofers. I was thinking I would try my first re-foam/surround. Is anyone aware of where surrounds can be purchased? They are the L200B model woofer, manufactured on 5/19/81, 26 years to the day before I bought them.

Tarior, Any opinions on how the 10s would compare to original large Advents? I had Advents them for years and never should have gotten rid of them.
Click to expand...
The Genesis aren't as efficient, but I think they sound a little more refined. The soundstage is a little better, too.
I usually recommend the kits from these guys for first time DIYers.
http://www.newfoam.com/
 
Thanks, Tarior, Tucker99 and MikeCh. After further review, remanufactured woofers are probably the more bulletproof way to go. Unfortunately, they probably also need new crossover components as the originals are 26 years old.

Although its really about the fun of the hunt and some great vintage speakers, my $5 find is about to get a little more expensive. Can't wait.
 
Robie, usually a simple cap replacement on the crossover (for genesis, usually either a single, or a pair of caps) is recommened, but cheap to do, and relatively easy.

don't toss the old woofers- Human might take them in partial trade, or I'm sure an AKer could use 'em.
 
Hmmmmm.....

Refoaming is no big deal. However, PM me if you want to get rid of the OEM drivers..... Perhaps I can defray the cost of new drivers a little....:thmbsp:
Thanks....
 
Robie said:
Thanks, Tarior, Tucker99 and MikeCh. After further review, remanufactured woofers are probably the more bulletproof way to go. Unfortunately, they probably also need new crossover components as the originals are 26 years old.

Although its really about the fun of the hunt and some great vintage speakers, my $5 find is about to get a little more expensive. Can't wait.
Click to expand...

You're very welcome....glad to help.

Ya know, I was of the same thinking when I realized that my 20 something year old model 1's were in need of a refoam. They were so shot that I figured a new woofer was the way to go. On a whim, I found a foam kit on eBay for $18 and did them myself. They were VERY easy to do....and while I was in there, I did a recap as well. These speakers sound brand new and as glorious as ever!!!! So my advice would be to refoam and recap and if that doesn't make em sing, then go for the new/refurbed drivers.

Mike
 
Robie said:
Thanks, Tarior, Tucker99 and MikeCh. After further review, remanufactured woofers are probably the more bulletproof way to go. Unfortunately, they probably also need new crossover components as the originals are 26 years old.

Although its really about the fun of the hunt and some great vintage speakers, my $5 find is about to get a little more expensive. Can't wait.
Click to expand...
As long as they aren't burned up, just re-foam them. Those woofers don't tend to be sunken, so a foam will bring them back to 100%. There are only a couple of caps in the crossover, so that will be a cheap and easy job.
 
A little OT...

Tucker99 said:
I have Genesis II's, Genesis 2+'s and the Model 20's ...
You will like them ... a solid find
Click to expand...

But just out of curiosity, How would you compare the 2's and 2+'s? :D
 
Thanks for the encouragement. I believe I will attempt to refoam them myself but have no prior experience. I have no electronics background but am usually not afraid to start a project I haven't done before, particularly a mechanical repair where you can see what you are doing. The refoam kits from newfoam, come with a video too.

However, without any electronics background, I don't want to destroy them in the process, so a couple of questions:

1. Do you have to replace the crossover coils too (assuming they have them)?
2. How do you determine appropriate replacement values for caps and/or coils so they represent an equal or superior replacement?
3. When soldering the new cap(s) into the crossover, do you have to use a heatsink to keep the gun heat from damaging other crossover components?

Thanks for answering my "rookie" questions.
 
It's easy.....

Robie said:
Thanks for the encouragement. I believe I will attempt to refoam them myself but have no prior experience. I have no electronics background but am usually not afraid to start a project I haven't done before, particularly a mechanical repair where you can see what you are doing. The refoam kits from newfoam, come with a video too.

However, without any electronics background, I don't want to destroy them in the process, so a couple of questions:

1. Do you have to replace the crossover coils too (assuming they have them)?
2. How do you determine appropriate replacement values for caps and/or coils so they represent an equal or superior replacement?
3. When soldering the new cap(s) into the crossover, do you have to use a heatsink to keep the gun heat from damaging other crossover components?

Thanks for answering my "rookie" questions.
Click to expand...

1) generally no

2) Use the same uFD values unless you want to change the crossover frequency. Sticking with the same value keeps the frequency response of the drivers the same. Also, if the old caps are rated for 50 VDC, get either 50 VDC or better. 400 VDC caps for example will work the same and provide a greater safety margin...

3) No, just use a 30-40 watt soldering iron rather than a 100W plus soldering gun, and don't heat them forever. Note that new caps are typically larger that the OEM caps, so a little planning may be in order to fit them onto the network.

Use some reasonable quality capacitors. You can buy on line at all sorts of places, such as Parts Express or Madisound (Google for websites) You can go cheap with electrolytics, but they are subject to aging, much as the OEM caps. Otherwise if you want to stay relatively inexpensive, Solens or Daytons are a good choice. IMHO, I'm not quite sure you will get a good return for your money if you go with the expensive Thetas or Auricap types. For the tightest tolerance, Dayton makes a 1% line that I'm thinking about using for a recap job. Have used Solens in the past and have been very happy.

Lotsa other threads available via the search function...:thmbsp:

Also, save your dough and get the surrounds from MAT electronics. The instructions on refoaming will be here on AK via search....
 
Check out wooferrepair.com, too. Their kits come with a video as well, and may be a few bucks cheaper (I've never ordered from newfoam, however, so I don't know fo' sho').

No need to replace any coils, unless they are obviously damaged.

Caps should be replaced with ones of equal capacitance (uF, MDF) and a voltage rating equal to or greater than the stock one(s).

I've never used a heat sink when replacing caps, but if it makes you feel better, clamp a hemostat or some such to the lead.
 
Genesis Model 10's were a huge seller at college in the early 80's, and they sound great. I'd love to have a pair myself, but for all the sold you don't see many that often. They make great bookshelf speakers or for smaller rooms and many, many dorm rooms I was in had them usually paired with a Technics or Yamaha receiver in those days. Great find. Post some pics when you get them redone.
 
I'll just add one more thing other than the great advice already given....

Since you're new to soldering, and if the x-over network is simple (ie: just a cap or two inline with the speaker or other wire) make sure you "tin" the stripped end of the wire first. Bend a little "J" in the end after cooling with longnose pliers. Similarly, bend a little "J" in the cap lead. Put them together and crimp over each other making a nice solid "mechanical" connection.....then solder.

If needed to protect the leads from rubbing on something, you can also slide a piece of heatshrink tubing over the speaker wire PRIOR to putting the two pieces together (wire and cap lead). Solder, then slide the shrink tubing down over the connection and heat.

Hope this helps,
Mike

edit: Woops. "Tinning" when soldering is the act of placing the hot iron up against copper wire and adding a touch of solder. This helps conductivity and also keeps any braided-wire together when bending, etc.
 
IIRC, the crossovers in those are mounted to a board, and point to point wired. Just replace the caps, the coils are fine.
I like the Newfoam kits for first time DIYers, as they use shims and have in depth instructions. The so-called shimless methods are hit and miss (ask me how many of those I've fixed), especially for a beginner. Also, it's just a plain black dustcap, so it's not worth the effort to save. Just cut it off and put on a new one when you're done.
I agree that you don't need to use a heatsink on the cap leads, just don't dawdle when you solder them, liquid or paste flux really speeds up the process.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom