H/K CD401 Idler condition

[xchg.ca]

Noticed subpar FF / RW performance of the deck.
Took apart the tape mech and this is how idler tires looks like, is this salvageable or I have to order new ones?

If I have to order new ones what are dimension I have to look for? Or course I can remove then and measure, but I prefer not to tear them apart before I getting new ones.
I searched all over the Internet and seems like specific sizes of idlers are pretty much impossible to get by. Service manual has no info

 

[duncan]

There might also be a short flat belt to check on, behind the idler.

Before replacing the tires, IMO you've got nothing to lose in scrubbing off some surface with naphtha, to see if there's usable material underneath without sacrificing too much of it. Take care with ventilation though.

 

[xchg.ca]

Have checked that one and this is whole another story.
I have new one, but when I put it on, it seems too small and causes clutch assembly not to operate in play mode ( 1.5V on motor ) but works fine in ff/rw mode ( 11V on motor )
Ether clutch is getting bad or lateral force exerted by this new belt is strong enough to tilt clutch to the point it sticks.
Look at the size and thickness difference!

I would have to re-measure both belt to make sure I'm not crazy.
PRB_Belt_XRef tells that belt I have to use is FRX2.9 I got FBS2.9..... do not know what is the difference

 

[duncan]

Any chance you can post video of how the idler behaves in play mode?

Not sure about the length of the new belt, but being thicker means it probably exerts extra force when stretched. That kind of thing can damage a motor shaft if left in place too long, especially if the belt really is too short.

 

[xchg.ca]

Any chance you can post video of how the idler behaves in play mode?

Sorry just noticed this reply!
Not at the moment as I assembled the deck, and main thing - I have place torque transistor in place with thermal compound. I will open it again when I get proper size belt, and capture video for you

 

[duncan]

Well, the right belt might entirely fix it... in which case, no need for a video of course. Good luck.

 

[titanstats]

There was someone selling belts for this unit on eBay last year, but the listing was gone last time I checked. The rubber is a tougher issue; as you've noticed, getting decent info on decks that weren't super-popular is difficult. I'd be interested in the solution if you find it, if you could post it for posterity that would be great. I have a couple of these decks and fortunately all they needed were belts, but I know the time will eventually come for the rest of the rubber.

 

[duncan]

The old reel belt on my CD301 worked acceptably after a good cleaning, so I was lucky there, for now. If the cross reference is wrong and 2.9" is too short, kits from vendors who are using that cross reference could have the wrong belt too. Wish I'd thought to measure the belt when I had it apart.

 

[xchg.ca]

There was someone selling belts for this unit on eBay last year, but the listing was gone last time I checked. The rubber is a tougher issue; as you've noticed, getting decent info on decks that weren't super-popular is difficult. I'd be interested in the solution if you find it, if you could post it for posterity that would be great. I have a couple of these decks and fortunately all they needed were belts, but I know the time will eventually come for the rest of the rubber.

Will do for sure !

The old reel belt on my CD301 worked acceptably after a good cleaning, so I was lucky there, for now. If the cross reference is wrong and 2.9" is too short, kits from vendors who are using that cross reference could have the wrong belt too. Wish I'd thought to measure the belt when I had it apart.

I have HK300xm with cracked board as a parts donor. From what it looks like it uses the same mech. So when I get to it I can take measures of that belt as well.