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Harman Kardon HK 330B recap, restore and upgrade BOM part list (kinda)

I do not know how to quote a small part of a big answer so to save space I will just say thank you again for the help you do here. I had to laugh, you and I are the same in a way that we do not know what we are doing but we are hobbyists in electronics! I just started everything!!! I have taken a class or two decades ago and forgot most of the theory, when it came to Transistor theory I quit because I just could not understand what the heck was going on....not to blame the teacher but he forgot to bring the jargon down to our level so I got lost!

I am glad to have met you and thank you again for your time and help.

I will pick some of that solder size up and I did buy rosin flux off Amazon, I ordered solder too off there but of course it is from China so it has been 4 week and I expect to see it in another 4 weeks!:rolleyes:
 
HiFi engine's service manual PDF for HK330B didn't have a simple layout diagram, so here are photos with the individual boards indicated:

View attachment 809890 View attachment 810227
One last question for the hour! ha ha

dlucy - how the heck do you get to put writing on your pictures that illustrate the area of the circuit you are talking about please? That is a good idea to help pinpoint the area for people like me to see where you mean in the circuit that needs work etc!

Thank you kindly!
 
how the heck do you get to put writing on your pictures that illustrate the area of the circuit you are talking about please? That is a good idea to help pinpoint the area for people like me to see where you mean in the circuit that needs work etc!

I use a Windows 7 PC, so I save the photo to the hard drive, open a photo-editing or digital-painting application like Windows Paint or Adobe Photoshop, open the saved photo, and then use the application's toolbar, often a text tool or a painbrush tool, to "draw" an arrow or "write" some text on top of the photo. Then I save the edited photo with a new filename to preserve the original file.

TUNER-FM-MPX-IMG_4014.png
 
I looked at the link and like the fact you took more time and made a nice chart I am printing this out if I can get permission from you the author of course!

You are welcome to print it out, but I'm not the author. I compiled the list from many contributors here on AK. I don't own anything about it and I, just like the people who did create the information, just want to help others where possible. So, print it out all you like. :)

So, the area you want me to post is the link you provided above so you can compile more?

If you discover a vintage transistor that has started to introduce noise or static into the signal due to age and you find a suitable, modern replacement transistor then it would be appropriate to post in that thread and add to the list. Anyone can contribute so long as it is useful information to others.

But, from what I have read and do know about the Citation 12 and 19 is that there is a "draining pop" I am guessing from a cap so a small noticeable small 'pop' when I turn the power off the Citation 19. The left then the right about a second later does a very small 'thunk/pop' sound. But, my brothers Citation 12 made a pop when it turned on and activated the speakers, my Citation 19 does not only when powering down.

You're question is good, but this particular thread is about the BOM parts list for recapping, restoring or upgrading Harman Kardon 330B stereo recievers. I recommend you post a new thread, title it so people reading the title know the make and model of the unit you are working on, include the basic element of your question in the title, and then elaborate in the first post in your new thread. That will keep your questions and other people's answers about the Citation 12 and 19 in one place and questions and answers about this Harman Kardon 330B here. It makes it easier for people searching for answers, in the future, about their specific problem.
 
Nice work Doug. Was just messing with this one

Nice! That looks mighty familiar....

I've got another 330B unit to restore, but I'm moving so it has to wait. I'll be using different families of resistors in that one.

What are you doing to yours?
 
You are welcome to print it out, but I'm not the author. I compiled the list from many contributors here on AK. I don't own anything about it and I, just like the people who did create the information, just want to help others where possible. So, print it out all you like. :)



If you discover a vintage transistor that has started to introduce noise or static into the signal due to age and you find a suitable, modern replacement transistor then it would be appropriate to post in that thread and add to the list. Anyone can contribute so long as it is useful information to others.



You're question is good, but this particular thread is about the BOM parts list for recapping, restoring or upgrading Harman Kardon 330B stereo recievers. I recommend you post a new thread, title it so people reading the title know the make and model of the unit you are working on, include the basic element of your question in the title, and then elaborate in the first post in your new thread. That will keep your questions and other people's answers about the Citation 12 and 19 in one place and questions and answers about this Harman Kardon 330B here. It makes it easier for people searching for answers, in the future, about their specific problem.
Thanks for that stuff.

BOM this is a new one, Build Our MacIntosh? LOL I do not know the lingo so you definitely have been on here longer for sure! Okay I am off to find the preamp area to ask a question on something (I won't post here)!:whip::king::D
 
Nice! That looks mighty familiar....

I've got another 330B unit to restore, but I'm moving so it has to wait. I'll be using different families of resistors in that one.

What are you doing to yours?
Just getting it to function properly. Picked it up awhile ago DOA for a couple bucks. Would blow (speaker?) fuse when powered. Output transistor(s) where blown. Replaced them and the complimentary pair.
 
There are two power supply boards, referred to as RECTIFIER MAIN and RECTIFIER SAB on the bottom side of the HK 330B.

I like rebuilding power supplies completely as they are often the source of failures, they rarely have above-the-limits components, and it's cheap and easy to add capacity (to the reservior cap) and further reducve nosie (with ultra fast soft recovery diodes or bridges).

Here are the before images for the RECTIFIER MAIN power supply board. This board in my unit did not have silkscreened component diagrams nor labels, so I hand-labeled it:

POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_3998.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_6525.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_6786.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_6795.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_6802.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 1 IMG_6803.JPG
 
After replacing everything on the RECTIFIER MAIN board, the resulting board looked like this. Yes, some of these before-and-after pictures were just so I could remember where the off-board wires came from and went to.

POWER-SUPPLY-RECTIFIER-1-2-01-IMG_6805.png POWER-SUPPLY-RECTIFIER-1-2-02-IMG_6808.png POWER-SUPPLY-RECTIFIER-1-2-03-IMG_6807.png POWER-SUPPLY-RECTIFIER-1-2-04-.png

(it appears I've hit some kind of limit and have to put the remaining photos of the RECTIFIER MAIN board in a second post. why? what am I doing wrong?)
 
The reservoir caps got bigger capacitances (to smooth more and to provide additional depth for dynamic passages) and higher voltages (to keep the normal operating voltage in the recommended 60-70% range instead of near-their-limits, thank you ConradH).

The diodes in the bridge needed to be above 1A, so they got replaced with the UF54xx series of ultra fast recovery soft recovery diodes. Yep, I know that is overkill, but that's what I like to do when I'm in there and making a maybe-better-sounding TANK that will outlive me.

The original resistor and standalone diode had insulating sleeves, so the new ones got that, too.

POWER-SUPPLY-RECTIFIER-1-2-05-IMG_6817.png
 
The secondary power supply board, labeled RECTIFIER SAB, was on the opposite side of the layout. It got a complete rebuild and hand-drawn labeling, too.

Before images:

POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 2 IMG_6521.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 2 IMG_6523.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 2 IMG_6524.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 2 IMG_6776.JPG POWER SUPPLY RECTIFIER 2 IMG_6778.JPG
 
Just found this thread. I will have to test the phono input in my 330B as I did not realize that it used 2SC458s. I still have some replacements left from fixing my Sansui 2000A. thanks for posting this!

Now if only someone would post a similar list for units that I actually plan on completely redoing that would be great :)
 
After replacing and upgrading everything on the secondary power supply or RECTIFIER SAB board:

RECTIFIER-2-2-01-IMG_6783.png RECTIFIER-2-2-02-IMG_6782.png RECTIFIER-2-2-03-IMG_6784.png

(AK seems to like my 800x600 images better than my 1024x768 ones. Hmpf.)
 
Just found this thread. I will have to test the phono input in my 330B as I did not realize that it used 2SC458s. I still have some replacements left from fixing my Sansui 2000A. thanks for posting this!

The phono board is coming up next, since you asked. I did a complete rebuild there, too, since increasing the precision of the RIAA-curve-handling resistors and caps was easy and cheap.

Now if only someone would post a similar list for units that I actually plan on completely redoing that would be great :)

Hah! You're in luck if you mean any of these (other units waiting for me to move into a new place and get around to refurbing them): Pioneer SX-990, Kenwood KR-6160, Kenwood KR-6140A, Kenwood KR-6170, Kenwood TK-140X, Harman Kardon HK825... uh, maybe I *do* have a problem....
 
The phono preamp, labeled as EQ BOARD, was pretty well laid-out, too, and had silkscreened component diagrams, labels, and they were all correct. I left the wires attached, so the before images here have a duplicate from a different angle so those of us without a silkscreen-and-foil image from the manual know what's where.

PHONO-1-04-IMG_6638.png PHONO-IMG_4012.png PHONO-IMG_6770.png PHONO-IMG_6771.png PHONO-1-05-IMG_6831.png
 
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LOL well the ones I really want are a Scott 340B and a Pilot 654... you don't do requests do you? :)

Although based on this maybe the HK330B should get done first since you've done the homework for me even though it's operational. (but then I'd need a "spare" unit to rotate into the kitchen...)

My problem is too many choices and not enough knowledge of what series of e.g. capacitors is appropriate in what locations, I'm sure I could sit down with the SM and a flipped over unit and make a list of values to buy, but...
 
LOL well the ones I really want are a Scott 340B and a Pilot 654... you don't do requests do you? :)

Although based on this maybe the HK330B should get done first since you've done the homework for me even though it's operational. (but then I'd need a "spare" unit to rotate into the kitchen...)

My problem is too many choices and not enough knowledge of what series of e.g. capacitors is appropriate in what locations, I'm sure I could sit down with the SM and a flipped over unit and make a list of values to buy, but...

Yep. That part too a long time. This is unit... 5?... for me. I did some Pioneer SX receivers first since they are so well documented and discussed here, made some cheat sheet selections guides for myself (when to replace what, what to upgrade to, which cap families for what...), and spent maybe a month of spare spare time on looking at the board, looking at the schematic, looking up parts on Mouser, comparing datasheets, scribbling results in Excel... taking a rest, reviewing that work, reading more AK threads, then erasing half of last night's scribbles based on new AK findings. For me, it was fun. And it resulted, after lots of other people's help, in the above BOM. The next person in a 330B will have a good start and someone to blame when it doesn't go perfectly. ;)
 
The phono preamp board looks really different when it has been stripped an only the transistors and small caps have been replaced. The 2SC458 have been replaced with KSC1845F and all the electrolytic caps under 4.7 uF (or so) have been replaced with film (polyester or polypropylene where possible) or MLCC so there is no opportunity for leakage to degrade the signal. Finding a close-tolerance 51 pF cap for part of the RIAA-handling "inner" part of the circuit was tough and forced me to choose between ordering everything from Mouser and accepting an unfavored brand, but, hey, this is just for fun so perfect isn't critical:

PHONO-2-01-IMG_6821.png

The completely-replaced PHONO EQ RIAA board in the HK330B looks boring, but should be quieter and minorly closer to the intended RIAA curve.

PHONO-2-02-IMG_6834.png

I've got a second HK330B that needs the same overhaul (and a facelift), so I'll be trying a different family of resistors recommended by one of the fine folks here on AK. I'll add that later as an alternate BOM for those who want/need to replace resistors.
 
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