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Head gaskets and much more

Tuesday October, 15th marks the two month anniversary of putting my RCSB back on the road with a new 5.7L heart, and this all American phrase comes to mind whenever I think about the ordeal: "Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness".

As of this morning I have put 1,200 miles on the new engine, and I guess you could say that I feel justified in my decision to go through the process of replacing the old engine in my old truck because the results are pretty bad ass.
 
FiddlerBeeps said:
I began my journey learning how to work on my own vehicle when I was three, helping my dad change a flat tire on our 61 Beetle in the driveway.

By high school I was rebuilding engines ('67 and '69 Mustangs owned by the neighbors and our own boat's 100 HP Evinrude).

I bought a service manual for my 1991 Acura Integra, and when the 7500 mile required maintenance check cost me a whopping $400, I said, "To hell with Acura's warranty!" and took over all maintenance on all my vehicles ever since.
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Rebuilding older engines is a refreshing walk in the park compared to messing with anything modern, most of the new aluminum block engines a somewhat repairable but mostly disposable.
 
I'm starting to suspect I'll need to do a head gasket on my diesel. It had an external leak a couple years ago I fixed with mechanic in a bottle, and it looks like it might be starting to leak again. Its had a slight ongoing coolant loss the entire time I've owned it. The fun part is going to be finding how how cracked the head is. With this engine its not whether its cracked, its how badly its cracked. Sometimes they can be welded, and other times its just something that gets ignored. Finding someone who is willing and able to TIG an aluminum cylinder head might be an interesting trick.

I really have little desire to do the job. The notion of getting that exhaust manifold off is sort of terrifying, though if the head is coming out anyway its not that big of a deal if bolts snap off I guess. I know the intake will come off, I've had it off before to do glow plugs and I had the injectors tested so all of that should come loose.
 
BSome said:
I know I am late to this but as I was reading the thread that video was the 1st thing I thought of and I find his videos very informative. My Tundra is now 5 years and coolant is on my list to do.
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I knew I was over due in my blazer when the plate on the back of the water pump got a hole in it ! Changed the pump and flushed it out !
 
Thats long overdue if it rotted out the pump. Coolant changes are right up there with brake fluid and transmission fluid replacements on the list of things that don't get done. Fuel filters too.

When I got my current truck at 140k, the only maintenance it had ever gotten were oil changes and brakes at some point. I did the 100k mile stuff at that point, plugs, diff oil, transfer case, transmission, and coolant. Pulled what I could out of the power steering reservoir and replaced that too since I had the pump out to drain the trans and it uses ATF. I flushed brake fluid from 3/4 wheels. The bleeder didn't want to let go on the other and I wasn't inclined to argue with it. Transmission definitely feels better with fresh juice in it.
 
My 4.7L 2002 Tundra is going in for service @ 200,000 miles

This 200k service will include the timing belt, water pump, drive belt, timing belt pulleys, timing belt tensioner, front engine seals, thermostat, coolant, oil & filter plus all vacuum hoses. The radiator was replaced in 2017 and the valve cover gaskets & plugs were replaced in 2023, as was the PCV valve.

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gadget73 said:
Thats long overdue if it rotted out the pump. Coolant changes are right up there with brake fluid and transmission fluid replacements on the list of things that don't get done. Fuel filters too.

When I got my current truck at 140k, the only maintenance it had ever gotten were oil changes and brakes at some point. I did the 100k mile stuff at that point, plugs, diff oil, transfer case, transmission, and coolant. Pulled what I could out of the power steering reservoir and replaced that too since I had the pump out to drain the trans and it uses ATF. I flushed brake fluid from 3/4 wheels. The bleeder didn't want to let go on the other and I wasn't inclined to argue with it. Transmission definitely feels better with fresh juice in it.
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Mine got several brake fluid flushes when the lines blew !
 
FiddlerBeeps said:
That's a pretty short list. Do you have access to Service Manual for your Tundra so you can look up the full 100k / 200k service recommendations for inspection/replacement?
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I don't put a lot of miles on the truck so I am able to break service into bite size chunks, this was the last big bite for awhile, all other required and preventative maintenance is up to date.
 
H2oman7.62mm said:
I don't put a lot of miles on the truck so I am able to break service into bite size chunks, this was the last big bite for awhile, all other required and preventative maintenance is up to date.
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I’ve been procrastinating on my oil change it’s only been 2k but it’s been 3 yrs ! I’ll probley do the tranny service as well !
 
FiddlerBeeps said:
A-ha! I knew I forgot something... I have a fuel filter change due for my truck, as it just crested 100k miles.

I suppose if the line remains pliable, I won't have to replace the line?
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Bend it around your thumb. If its got any cracks, replace it. Or if you need to replace a caliper, throw a line on at the same time. Have to bleed it anyway.

All of the hoses I've had to change were easily 20 years old, and some quite a lot more. Last set I did was on a friend's 89 Mustang. They were visibly cracked and deteriorated without doing anything else. It wasn't here for that but it drove and stopped so badly that it got new hoses, the caliper pins cleaned & lubed, and new inner tie rod ends. I did the sway bar bushings too, one was completely gone and the other barely there. The noises that makes are incredible.
 
Steel lines aren't a ton of fun. I use the nickel/copper lines for replacement. Much easier to bend and flare, and they do not rust.
 
FiddlerBeeps said:
Interesting... By chance, do you know of the max psi differences, offhand?
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I'll bet Google does.

There are thousands of places that sell CUNI brake lines. I doubt they would be there if they were inferior. The biggest issue is difference in cost.
 
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H2oman7.62mm said:
My 4.7L 2002 Tundra is going in for service @ 200,000 miles

This 200k service will include the timing belt, water pump, drive belt, timing belt pulleys, timing belt tensioner, front engine seals, thermostat, coolant, oil & filter plus all vacuum hoses. The radiator was replaced in 2017 and the valve cover gaskets & plugs were replaced in 2023, as was the PCV valve.

View attachment 3339100
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A friend of mine has this same engine (2UZ) in a 1998 Lexus LX470. I think he's coming up fast on 300K miles on it, now.

About the only recurring problem he's ever had, was something weird in the fuel system that causes it to not want to take the last few gallons of gas, when filling up the tank. Some venting problem, that no one seems to be able to fix. Everything else has basically been bullet-proof.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
probably has one of those one-way check valves somewhere in the vapor system and the valve is stuck shut or at least partially clogged. Usually it lives on top of the tank.
 
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